Hello everyone,

I have noticed since I installed my header that the engine bay gets extremely hot. Before I decided to install a header I read that the problem with our cars is that the headers is not infront of the motor so air flow is not enough to cool it down. Anyways I decided to go with a stainless stell OBX header 4 - 1. The unreputable shop to wish I took it told me to buy the heat tape or however you want to call it and it costed me around $70 (remember Im in Mexico we have to import things lol). While installing the header they broke this metllaic hose (it carries coolant right?)



So they welded it (sorry soldered was an incorrect translation lol)



Im not sure if this was the right thing to do or if they should have replaced it completely.

My real problem is that when I drive my car in heavy trafic or for more than 45 minutes when I turn off the car my coolant reservoir starts spitting the coolant through this hose



I know this hose is used to relieve pressure but it throws 2 liters of coolant! I guess this is not normal. The first time it did this I took it to the mechanic, we started the car and
waited for it to get to 90 C then the fan started working and the temperature decreased so the fan works. So we thought that maybe the cap was not closed correctly. But after a week it did it once again after driving in heavy traffic when I shut it off. I think that when we tested it with the mechanic the difference was that the header was not heating the engine bay that much specially since the hood was opened.

I have already changed the cap aroung 6 months ago just for the heck of it and 1 month ago my coolant reservoir broke (cracked) and I had to buy a new one ($80). the coolant reservoir and all the hoses including the one that goes to the radiator get extremely hot after just a 20minutes drive. It is important to mention that the engine temperature does not go extremely high just about 2 or 3 lines above the normal 90C temperature.

Is all this because of the header? What can I do? Will going back to the exhaust manifold fix this?




Anyone driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac...

step 1:

buy new rear coolant line.

step 2:

flush radiator and add brand new antifreeze. then let the system breathe and get the air out of it.

step 3:

buy brand new radiator cap and screw it on.

-if that all doesnt fix it than i dont know wtf will because that header will not cause the coolant to boil. people run headers on here all over and never have this issue. ive ran a similar design header for years on either of my cars and not one issue. hell... even the rk sport 4-2-1 header requires you to bend that line out so that it actually goes through the header piping and even then its a non issue.



I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.

This sounds very similar to what had happend to my engine minus the broken hose. On my car it turned out to be a bad head gasket. It did the same exact thing your's is doing. I changed my caps the pressure kept blowing them out. Eventually after several weeks the motor started over heating. The heat guage would max out and bounce back to normal. I thought I just had a big air bubble in my line. I flushed it out and added new coolant. Still didnt fix it. One day finnally the temp was staying at a normal temp. I also had to drive out of town (big mistake) to go to an appointment. I was 25 miles away from home and the engine overheated to the point where I couldnt get her back. In other words I made a very bad decision. I ended up warping my head, damaging 5 valves and leaving tiny indents on all the pistons. Although all this happend I realize it was my own fault for not doing enough research in the begining on how much to torque down my arp bolts. Hopefully this isnt what is happening to you.

Where can I get a rear coolant line? I searched in autozone.com and couldnt find it. How much should it cost? and how much will a head gasket cost? its important for me to buy first the cheapest and then check if that fixes the issue or not.

thanks for the info!


Anyone driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac...

well if it is your head gasket then you will want to have your head checked to see if it is warped before you put a new gasket on. If your head is warped you will either have to get a straight head or have them mill this head so its straight. The price of the headgasket depends on the kind of gasket you want. Oem isnt very expensive. But if you have to remove your head and get it straightend then you may need a thicker gasket depending on the amount of material that was removed. I believe .021 is the most you can remove before you run into issues. I also believe that your oem gasket is around .031 so if you remove .021 you should beable to use at least a .051 or however thick of gasket you want.
I agree with you though go with the smallest and least expensive alternitaves first and try to narrow it down. As far as your coolent line goes you can just use a good strong heat resistant hose cut it to lenght, and use some clamps.

Stainless does get pretty hot though, my underhood gets so hot I could probably cook a meal in my engine bay.



Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.

mine was doing that also, might want to change the thermostat, also try the water pump and then lastly radiator went,. it would heat up and then the damn drain plug would pop open under pressure im guessing



Mods: Synapse Charge Piping, Short Throw, Bad-Mab Dp, Dejon Intake, BYT Tuned!
Parts For SALE! Pacesetter Header(ECO),17'in Resonator, Alternator, Starter, Viper Alarm.

This is not a problem with your header.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

FastFireTwoTwo wrote:Stainless does get pretty hot though, my underhood gets so hot I could probably cook a meal in my engine bay.

to bad every engine bay is like that though, huh?



I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.

Ummmmmmmmmmmm...nope, with stock manifold, I lift hood and it's warm yes, but I can still place hand on valve cover... with the stainless header I definitly felt the heat from the firewall and under the feet..when I lift the hood it feels a lot hotter and I can't put hand on valve cover, it's very hot, maybe enough to give a first degree burn if I held hand on it.



Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.

well, my car def gets hot enough to give a pretty bad burn on the valve cover after driving it till it gets hot.