I have a 2.2 stock engine and i wanted to rebuild it. I was wondering if anyone would now how much money it would take to overhaul the engine. Im losing power and the motor has way over 200,000 miles on the motor. So hope someone has rebuilt one and kept tabs on the cost.

Depends on what direction you want to go with it and which 2.2L engine your talking about. OHV or ECO?



Tinkles

2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown

According to his profile, it's a 2.2 OHV

Are you doing it your self or taking it to a shop and having it done?

The more work you can do yourself the less expensive it is to do, as long as you have access to the proper tools.

do yourself a favor and get a eco



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85

i dont understand why some of you always have to recommend swapping in an eco, theres nothing wrong the ohv 2.2 just let the guy rebuild what he has.

Hmm..... the cost to rebuild is more money then just buying a low miles, running OHV from the wreckers at least over here.... ohv's are plentiful, wreckers have tonnes of them..I would only rebuild if also building the engine up for performance or boost. Swapping in a eco is a good idea too, ecotecs are also prevalent in the wreckers, but you'd have to re-wire to car and swap some things to accept it.



Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.

If your staying stock, just get a motor from the junk yard. I wouldn't recommend an Eco swap on a pre 2K, too much swapping involved, as opposed to the 2K+ cars. The older cars if you want to swap another 4cylinder motor, do an LD9 swap. 3X00 swaps are good if you want a V6, but still more work than an LD9.

I haven't been overly impressed with but the top few Ecos, not for the amount of work put into them. The top boosted LN2s are doing the same as the top Ecos (excluding Adam Hahn ) The LD9s have proven them selves powerful. I like what I've been seeing from the 60* V6 swaps, I like how easily they over power the tires and are still N/A. 3800 swaps have been increadible, but a lot of work.

Me, I like the challenge, I don't blindly follow the crowd. I'm more impressed with a well built LN2, because so few of us actually stick with it. Aside from a couple of the earlier innovative types, most that build them give up just on the verge of getting it right. So many have come so close, just to give-up with one or two things left to get it running like they want or ignoring a key component, such as a decent cam. We can't just open up a catalog (or web site) and order the go fast goodies, but there are plenty of parts from other motors that do work well for our motors, often with machine work to fit. If we don't find it, we make it!

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/1999---2001-22-LN2-New-Goodwrench-Engine-88894187-P41C61.aspx

if have the dealer do it u dont get dirty and you get a warranty

That's a good price, but he has a 1998 2.2L engine. Same warranty, but cost a little bit more, due to a one year motor. Identical to the one you listed, except it still had and EGR, the '99+ didn't.

I wasnt planing on swapping to a 2.2 ecotec enigine. For one you have to change alot of @!#$. Why do all that work when u can go out and buy a cavy with one already in it. Need to be smarter than a car. And another thing why go get one out of a junk yard, most of the time ur looking at more problems. Id rather rebuild the engine that way i now that its going to run for a long time. And yes im rebuilding the enigine my self. Thanks for backing me up Aaron kearns.

If i would decide to swap in a engine what all engine sizes do i have to pick from. Im looking at some thing that wont take a month to do, more like a week or two.

Ben Raudabaugh wrote: why go get one out of a junk yard, most of the time ur looking at more problems. Id rather rebuild the engine that way i now that its going to run for a long time.

It's your money, do what you like...if you are rebuilding yourself then you won't have all the labor charges, in that case I agree it's a good idea for you to rebuild it over sourcing another engine...while you are at it, with the engine out if you can afford it, get the cam reground, upgrade the rockers.... do some work on the head, P&P, 1mm oversive valves.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, May 27, 2009 12:49 AM


Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.

Rodimus Prime wrote:do yourself a favor and get a eco

yeah one less OHV to kick your ass. lol



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

well im getting ready to rebuild and i decided to bore the motor to the max and installing a turbo so when im passing ur eco my OHV will be saying kiss my ass. Smile lifes a bitch

Well in that case I hope you're building the motor to handle boost...gonna be expensive.... if you get the tuning right, that thing should haul pretty good!



Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.

If for no other reason than knowledge I say rebuild it. It won't be until after tear down that you'll know how expensive though. Might get by with standard size bearings which would save machine shop costs. Those kind of miles I'd say the cylinders will have to be bored. New timing set, oil pump, lifters, and a valve job could net you another 200,000 miles.

ohvrolla wrote: Those kind of miles I'd say the cylinders will have to be bored. New timing set, oil pump, lifters, and a valve job could net you another 200,000 miles.

Actually, when I tore my engine down with 192k miles, I really didn't need to bore and hone, just a mild hone and new ring was all that was really needed. I only did the .75mm (appox. 0.030") because I new I was going to be beating on it and could use the little bit extra compression and displacement and I balanced the bottom end, along with many other bottom end blueprinting.

^^^ That's good to know. Just did a head gasket on my '94 and the ridge at the top was BARELY noticeable with 135,000 miles. My old '85 Lynx, good lord at the ridge. Surprised I couldn't wiggle the pistons! Of course I put about another 15,000 on the clock before selling it to my dad who put another 10,000 on it before it started smoking a little.