well it sounded good but.... - Performance Forum

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well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 7:10 AM
so i took teh racecar to shake it down at my former track last night with the new trans i had built and the 3 year old race motor with the new head and cam.

the trans worked awesome changed me from 5600 rpm at the end of the straights to 6500-6800 depending on how hard i was giving it

but 4 laps in i saw the big white puff and heard metal clanking around, threw the #4 rods out the side... i am taking the motor out today and will have pics shortly

we will have a new experiamntal setup built for this weekend

Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 9:35 AM
bitter sweet sorrow



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 11:31 AM
Bob, have you tried grooving out the main saddles and drilling extra oil feed holes in the main bearings? This and lead in grooving the main bearing journals connecting rod feed holes. These procedures are covered in the Chevrolet Power Catalog , 6th Edition in the 2.0L 4-Cylinder section pp 2-2 through 2-6. These procedures will allow for the main and rod bearings to receive a constant supply of oil at higher rpm, such as what you're getting in to with this new gearing and motor build.





Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 3:12 PM
the bearings all look great the problems is the rods break in half haha. how do i get a copy of that book
Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 4:50 PM
Bob Guptill wrote:the bearings all look great the problems is the rods break in half haha. how do i get a copy of that book


X2...and some carnage pics would be nice too.


"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:06 PM
That edition was published in 1988 and has been superceeded a couple times over. The last site that I know of that was hosting a copy is no longer active. Maybe OHV Notec or Slowolej might have an active posting somewhere. I didn't use it too often, I've got my own copy. I could make a copy, but it's 27 pages and would probably use what I've got left for ink at the moment. I also don't have any way to produce a PDF and that would be a ton of HTML! Then again the Coke 600 is in a rain delay, it would take a while...

I was going to look up your rules concerning connecting rods, but the NEMST site wasn't working. Did you take it down or is there a problem?

Anyways, theres a section on the connecting rods and race preping them, though they recommend aftermarket rods, such as the Eagle if you can use them.






Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 7:25 PM
i dont know whats up with the site, the webmaster is off photographing a race and hasnt emailed me back yet,

engine rules are basically run what ya brung

stock ports, .450 cam, 12:1

if you could get the book in word format i found a good free site that changes it over to pdf's
Re: well it sounded good but....
Sunday, May 24, 2009 10:47 PM
then bring a freaking dohc engine LOL



I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.
Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, May 25, 2009 5:07 AM
i changed the rules to allow dohc but at a 100lb weight penalty, i love my ohv's


the new setup is going to be a stock 99 shortblock with the race cam, stock head the carb and header, maybe some light porting if the head has the valves out of it when i get to the shop
Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, May 25, 2009 7:35 AM
Acid etching can look stock.

A breif run down of what the book says about the stock rods.

  1. Magnaflux the rod.
  2. Grind the forging parting lines down, grinding with the length of the rod.
  3. Round any sharp edges and nicks around the bolt seat.
  4. Shot peen the rods. (If you need the spec let me know)
  5. Resize the main bearing end.
  6. Use new/good rod bolts.
  7. Balance big ends, little ends and total weight. (I added this and do it all my motors.)


Of course balance the pistons also. If you have access to a spin balancer, do the crank also, but with everything being 180* from one another, this isn't as big of a problem as with other motor designs.

You should also spin up a little quicker with this, as everything is a few grams lighter.

The bottom end should hold up at the rpm your running at, with all this done.

Where did the other rod break at? Was there any signs of the pistons striking the head or valves? A zero decked block with a stock replacement gasket should have plenty of clearance, in fact too much at 0.055" compressed thickness.

I rant, I'm sure you know most of this already!!!






Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, May 25, 2009 10:57 AM
Bob Guptill wrote:i changed the rules to allow dohc but at a 100lb weight penalty, i love my ohv's


the new setup is going to be a stock 99 shortblock with the race cam, stock head the carb and header, maybe some light porting if the head has the valves out of it when i get to the shop


i know this is ludicrous coming from my mouth but you could swap in an ecotec and it would be about the same weight. ecotecs use an aluminum block. and you can actually ditch some weight off an ld9 to cut off the 'fat'... 2.3 oil pump swap ditches a whole bunch of weight, and ive seen another track car just like yours shave off a hUGE amount of weight off the crank. by the time they were done it didnt even look like a crankshaft. LOL

but i understand you wanting to keep the ohv's. i love my ld9's just as much.



I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.

Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, May 25, 2009 6:05 PM
i know the motor is the same weight, the tour has a 100 lb penalty issued on 16v motors...

madjack i got a 1999 sunfire today for free and took the 2200 out, it was a fresh rebuild haha, cylinders are .50 mm over and are still crosshatched. i took the cam out for ya, where do you want me to send it for ya?
Re: well it sounded good but....
Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:42 PM
Rods coming apart on an NA engine aren't usually too big a mystery. Either the pistons are too heavy and the rods are coming apart under tension, (not as likely) or you're getting into detonation or pre-ignition (more likely imo at 12:1) . Sometimes you can make a good guess by studying the rods at the fracture point.

I suppose another pitch for a timing control system would be wasted... something which would pick up the sounds of detonation before they became the sounds of rods exiting the block could save plenty of heartaches.

Are stock I6 rods still stock? Larger beams, big end correct width and diameter, small end pin same as smallblock chevy, 5.7" center length.

Maybe I'll get some time to watch ya run this summer.
-->Slow
Re: well it sounded good but....
Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:48 PM
anyone actually ever weigh an ecotec vs an OHV?

I know the eco is around 350lbs fully dressed.. I wouldn't be surprised if the OHV's iron block weighed that alone.. that bish is HEAVY

my point is, for the weight difference between the two, adding 100lbs may still be less than the actual difference for more power, more torque, and more revs






Re: well it sounded good but....
Friday, May 29, 2009 5:11 PM
heres some pics of the latest casualty, didnt get a pic of the head but it lost the #4 exhaust valve

crack


Milky


BOOM




yuck



Re: well it sounded good but....
Saturday, May 30, 2009 8:24 AM
Eugh, that sucks! I'm guessing the milky colour is a result of oil and coolant mixing together? I'm not an expert with engine carnage... hopefully I won't have to be

Good luck with the new engine!



" To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous. "
Re: well it sounded good but....
Saturday, May 30, 2009 9:19 AM
You're not suppose to put paint in the engine. It's suppose to be oil

From the look on the pictures, the #4 rods only seem bent but not broken?? The piston broked?

I love carnage pictures!!!


Gilles
2.3 Ho

Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, June 01, 2009 3:43 AM
we arent sure what happen, if it ran lean or floated the loves or what not
Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, June 01, 2009 4:09 PM
Ouch and Eww, good luck with the re-build, I'm sure the new one will get pleanty of tlc.

DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:anyone actually ever weigh an ecotec vs an OHV?

I know the eco is around 350lbs fully dressed.. I wouldn't be surprised if the OHV's iron block weighed that alone.. that bish is HEAVY

my point is, for the weight difference between the two, adding 100lbs may still be less than the actual difference for more power, more torque, and more revs


FYI - The 2200 I have in my garage (TB to Exhaust Mani, and bare flywheel, no alt, PS or A/C) weighed in at 298 lbs by the shipping co. I'm sure that also included the large tire and pallet it was sitting on though.
Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, June 01, 2009 5:27 PM
Geez, a gasoline Chevette engine weighs 186lbs... and the only external aluminum part are the cam carrier & intake.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, June 01, 2009 5:35 PM
Mother of god!! NIce lol



]:-> 287 TimeSlips In Hand. Car Still Runs Strong... 3 Differentials Later ]:->

Re: well it sounded good but....
Monday, June 01, 2009 5:51 PM
ill toss one of our race motors on a scale sometime

the problem is if i change to eco's i have to start over completely with my research adn aprts inventories. as it stands right now i have 7 2.2s sitting around ready to be raced and almost all have trans and clutches adn stuff with them.
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