OK, I purchased the Ecotec balance shaft delete bushings from Level Zero Motorsports a while back, and just got around to putting them in since I am building an engine for my Sunflower. Well, I had the block dipped and machined so it made sense to have the old balance shaft bearings pressed out.
I started off by pressing one of the new balance shaft bearings in, and it went in fine. The problem is when i went to press the delete bushing in. It went in part ways, and then it started pushing the bearing out of the back side of the bore!!!! It's almost as of the bushing sleeves are machined to a larger diameter than they should be.
Needless to say, after about 4 hours of cussing, throwing stuff, breaking my shop light, and half way tearing down my freshly built bottom end, I'm pissed. The question is, did I maybe do something wrong???? I took a picture of the other new bearing and put it on to the sleeve. I realize that they are a slight press fit into the bearing, but the bearing is actually split apart because of the size difference.
Is this something I did wrong??? Or should I blame incorrectly machined sleeves from LZM??? I appreciate everyone's input, opinions, and advice.
Here is the picture of the bearing on the sleeve.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Dont forget almost makeing my old ass go blind from the screwdriver. Yes indeed a lot of cussing and beating on @!#$ hahaha... Ohwell at least we went to Columbus to drop off that other special part. Im still excited.
It might have been better to let the old bearings in there. I first used the bench grinder and tapperd the end of it so it would line up alittle better.And I also dipped part of the bushing in oil to help it to go in alittle easier. Once you get them in your not going to get the out..
285whpcavy wrote:It might have been better to let the old bearings in there. I first used the bench grinder and tapperd the end of it so it would line up alittle better.And I also dipped part of the bushing in oil to help it to go in alittle easier. Once you get them in your not going to get the out..
Believe me, I used plenty of oil, bearing grease, WD-40, and elbow grease. The problem is it wouldnt go in. I also tapered the end of the one sleeve to start it in, it went in part of the way, but then it pushed the bearing out of the back side of the bore, lodging it sideways in an almost impossible position in my engine. Me and the guy posting above you actually had to beat the bushing and bearing, chopping them up with a long screwdriver, so we could get the pieces out of my engine.
I just don't get what the problem could be. Hell, there's people here that have installed them with the engine in the car with no problems whatsoever, nevermind having it apart with complete access on a work bench.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Listening because I'm planning this eventually...
Roofy have you been dealing with my machine shop?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Yea I even did mine with the motor still in the car....LOL The machining of the bushing could have been off. But I still say it had something to do with punching out the old bearing and putting new ones back in. The old bearings might not have moved because they where in there so long and some times thats just the way it works... That bushing in that picture really doesn't look tapperd. Im talking like 1/8 to 1/4 of and inch. You don't want an edge on there at all. That will help get it started and will help from going sideways and pushing the bearing out like it did to you.. If you can try to put the bearing back in and really tapper the end of the bushing and try again.. Use a socket or something that is big as the bushing when you try to tap it in.. When you get the bushing all the way in the lip of the bushing will sit almost completely flush with the block..
I left the old bearing in.
-Chris
gotta be the new bearing. i've installed two, and never had a problem either way.
Well that sux, guess that means i'm out 80 bux on bushigs. I already ordered another set of bearings so i guess I'll try again.
WHITECAVY wrote:Roofy have you been dealing with my machine shop?
Just took my head up there yesterday, thanks David!!!!!!!!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Niiiice man, they'll hook you up. Bob is the man!
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Did you re-order the bushing from LZM again?
Curious...what is done with the balance shaft / water pump drive chain in this approach?
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:Curious...what is done with the balance shaft / water pump drive chain in this approach?
The pieces supplied with the kit are: 2 aluminum slugs to press into the rear bearings to seal off the oil feed, and 2 balance shaft end pieces (balance shafts machined off just behind the front bearing area) that are installed in the front carriers in place of full balance shafts.
The chain and gear setup for the water/shafts is unchanged.
Not the best design, IMO, but I haven't heard of anyone failing one yet.
sig not found
Shane Reid wrote:Did you re-order the bushing from LZM again?
No, I meant to say I ordered new bearings, I'm gonna have to come up with a diferent set of bushings to block off the oil ports. I'm more than slightly pissed at the situation and won't be paying 80 bux for another set of bushings that may or may not work.
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:
Curious...what is done with the balance shaft / water pump drive chain in this approach?
Do you still have the balance shafts in the Sunfire???? If so, GET 'EM OUT!!!! I wanna see that thing hit 10 flat!!!!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Ah, OK. We did it that same way a few years back...but instead of driving shaft-sized plugs in, I drilled/tapped the oil passages for the rear bearings and installed pipe plugs. I considered the large plug method like you are doing, but I was concerned that as the block expanded with heat, I'd lose my press and the plug might come out. Please don't take that as a condemnation of this method...I just didn't want to "experiment" with my engine at that time. If this has been proven to be an effective method, then way cool! I can say with certainty that the trimmed-off shaft concept to retain the stock chain drive works, as we did it for some years.
What we've got in Adam's 10-second Sunfire now is a unique setup with a shorter chain and a different chain tensioner guide. It's nice, in that we can retain water pump chain drive but just remove the shafts completely. Our engine is a bit unique in this regard...most of the GM Racing cars had transitioned to external electric water pumps by the time they were at our HP level (about 750). As our car is a street car, I didn't want to lose the stock water pump. So far, so good!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, September 20, 2009 10:37 AM
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:
What we've got in the Sunfore now is a unique setup with a shorter chain and a different chain tensioner guide.
x2!!! same boat once i get the motor i bought installed.
Vincent Morris Tank Topped Eco wrote:Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:
What we've got in the Sunfore now is a unique setup with a shorter chain and a different chain tensioner guide.
x2!!! same boat once i get the motor i bought installed.
@!#$ you bought aitonics engine didn't you!?
2002 Cavalier "LS Sport"
Damn you Vincent. Well if you do, I hope you show us what that engine can really do with your turbo set-up. It should be a screamer...
2002 Cavalier "LS Sport"
