im prepairing to do a build on my car so far this is what i know im going to get i want to use the 9.5 comp. pistons so when i can afford it i can throw some boost at it
Complete Gasket Set
MLS Head Gasket
ROSS/Wiseco Forged Pistons
(89, 89.5, 90mm bore)
(9.5-1, 10.5-1 comp ratio)
Eagle h beam rods
Upgrade to JE Pistons (Add $99 to kit price)

Performance Moly Rings
Performance Wrist Pins - Ultra Lite 79 grams
(stock pins weight 112 grams)
Federal Mogul Main Bearings
Federal Mogul Rod Bearings
Cam Bearings (where applicable)
Timing Chain
Lifters
Freeze Plugs
ive also thought of getting my crank knife edged and lightened

just deciding on cam and weatheror not toget the sport head from mantapartand etc...
can you guys help steer me in the right direction on what i need to makeit all work together

i forgot to put up my goal hp is around 300 after i boost but id like to get as much as possible with what i have posted above

i'm gonna say you should do the head yourself(or rather, have a machine shop do it). that the importperformanceparts.net kit?

you can ass on teh crank work, no beneift for the $$$ spent. have someone thats knwos the LN2 do the head or you might hurt it more than help it. read about the engine before wanting to build it.if your not familiar with engines have somone else do the work

try to find Clevite bearings too. the Federal Mogel one's I personally don't trust.

reasoning, I work at at a parts store, and the federals have this habit of coming back cause they didn't accept any break-in oil and caused some problems for a couple different customers.

I would steer clear of manta part. Find someone who has solid feedback at a local machine shop for head work. I'd ditch the knife edging and lighting, for your goal of 300+ hp your money would be better spent on a nice turbo, or in other areas.

Based on what i hae read, I agree with all the above statements.

Go with the Wiseco's, try to find the Clevite bearing, and stay away from Mantapart. As for the cam, you need to decide when/if you are going to boost before you commit.




P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

im hoping to boost within the next couple yearsif my money works out . my head i have now is junked do to a bolt getting into my cyliders 1&4. is there any other info on what i may be needing to get it done and be efficiant with the power

i have parts if you need them, i have 2.2 and 2200 parts so just let me know. dont do the cam until your intentions are finished, if you do the turbo get a turbo cam downt eh road if you stay all motr get an all motor cam

so i couldnt change out the cam when i get all the stuff. plus i cant do with out my car for that long its sitting in my yard on stands

Look to be honest unless you have more money than your letting on building a LN2 is not cheap. I do not consider myself a Guru by any means BUT I am some one who has $4k in the internal workings of my 2200. A lot of what people are saying is true altought I did exactly what you attempting. I built mine using 8.5:1 CR and used a boosted cam (as opsoed to you going higher CR). I ran for a entire year with out boost on an engine that was built for boost. It wasnt all that exciting, sure the car was a little more peppy than it was before the build. (a complete engine tear down will do that along with opening the air ways)

Before you get all into your build consider your options. It may be beneficial to do a mild build on a LD9 and just throw some nitrous at it. This would be a cheaper option if you already have a 4T40E tranny. Parts are more readily available for the LD9. (I.E. fuel rails)

Also remember that for everything you do you have to adjust other area's. Like if you do a complete build up your going to need to tune the ECU. Trust me a built 2200 running different CR than stock runs like crap until you tune it.

I used mantapart and have no complaints, others have told me many many horror stories. Also if you buy the cam from them be prepared to have it tested on a flow bench because they do not include the lift and duration numbers you or your machinist will need.


Good luck, and research research research. Then add another $1,000 to the total estamated cost just to be safe.

i like the power the ld9 has to offer but my wife has a z24 and they just aint that dependable ive done been through 3 of them. thats one reason i am doing a 2200 cause they can withstand the abuse. and i figured id have to tune just wondering if i should go ahead and upgrade my feul system as well

Good luck with the fuel system in the 2200. You can put a better pump in, (go with racetronix) you can upgrade the injectors (RC Engineering) andchange the supply and return lines to braided stainless and add in a FPR (aeromotive is my choice) but thats about it. You will have to go a custom route with a fuel rail like the rest of us did because for the ln2/2200 there is nothing available.

ive heard of alot of people using walbro where can i find the racetronix your talking about

Racetronix.com, dont waste your time with a inline pump. i had the MSD inline and it was awful. The nice thing about the racetronix is that it's an intank pump that requires minimal modification and supports up to like 800-1000hp.

I've given my point of view before, seems to get lost, but I'll try again.

Don't spend money having the head ported. You're using a turbo, and when it comes to porting 10 hrs of excruciating work trying to wring out every nuance possible can be blown away by some punk kid who's not afraid to turn up the boost another 2-4 psi. Porting is expensive and time consuming. Increasing boost with a good tune is only a couple hrs max investment, done while driving, to ensure the tune is still good at the new boost level. Oversize valves are ok while you're there, but they're expensive. Build the engine with a stock, fresh head that has good springs and guides and is flat. Run the car, get the tune right, have some fun, and if you still feel you need more power you can buy a used, cheap head, have it built and bolt it on the car later. Maybe a weekend's investment in time swapping it out?

Basic machine work is important. Spend the money to check the block for square and that the bores are parallel and concentric. Check the main bearing bore to make sure it's aligned. Have the top of the block checked for flat and deck it if necessary. Heads and head gaskets like to be bolted to flat blocks.

Forged pistons are good. Any brand of forged will work, and no brand of forged will hold up to a wrong tune for long. Forged is needed for extremely high pressure developed in chamber if running high boost, and forged is insurance in case you happen to get the tune wrong. Forged does not equal bulletproof.

Good rods also important. Folks seem to like the Eagle rods but H-beam rods are excessive imo. H-bean helpful for low rpm, high high pressure situations. Windage around rod increases as rpm increases. Strength tradeoff not worth it to me. Balance rotating assembly even if using stock parts. Good balancing always pays off.

Crank should be straight. Haven't seen many problems with OHV crank, but still worth the check. Some lightening is ok if not compromising strength. Knife edging is lightening of wallet in most cases. Better to have a crank scraper made to fit your crank / rod combo. Cheaper and more effective. Move up to stock replacement oil pump for 87-93 non-roller 2.0 / 2.2 OHV. High volume pump wastes energy. Keep bearing clearances toward the small side if possible. pre-68 smallblock Chevy and 60 deg V6 chevy rod bearings have correct OD for OHV engine. Clevite Catalog has part numbers and dimensions. FYI, Clevite warns their bearings should never be used in nuclear reactors, so you'll need a different brand if you decide to go with cold fusion engine.

Now, very important... pick the rpm range you expect to be running to, and build for that. 6k rpm peak is "mild" and many street performance parts work well to that rpm. 8k-9k rpm is whole different world, requires awesome springs, likes special valves, roller solid lifters, lightweight rotating parts, engine oil cooler, lotsa, lotsa more careful preparation. 6k rpm requires good machinist, careful planning, and basic but attentive bolting together.

Whatever you save on not overbuilding engine, put to engine management. Whether HPtuner, standalone, or retrofit ecm from another car, don't cheap out here. This is paper to bulletproof engine's rock. Bad tune = wrong spark = detonation= broken pistons, popped head gaskets, bent rods, damaged head. Bad tune = lean mixture = detonation = melted pistons, popped gasket, damaged head, damaged valves. Have done more good with proper tuning on underbuilt engines than with bandaid methods on "rock" built engines. Have paperweight piston from $8,000 3000GT engine caused by owner messing with shop settings. Thought high dollar parts meant "never break." Oh, well.

hth

-->Slow

i am not real big on turbo ln2's but liekeveryone is saying put your money into a good tune or you will be putting it into another motor when you grenade it