Having some issues here guys.. Old setup was ttr upper and rk sport lower.
Since I put in the TTR lower vibrations between 1k-3kRPM are crazy!!!! Everything in the car rattles and sqeaks. My catalytic went loose and can hear it hitting the heat shield now.
I actually even got a
Check Engine light, got a reading on it with an Actron CP9175 from Adv. Auto:
CODE: P2A01 (02 Bank 1 Sensor 2)
DTC that caused freeze frame: P3001
Throttle position: 18%
RPM: 2,132rpm
Load Value: 48.2%
MAP Sensor: 50kpa
Coolant temp: 194F
IAT: 26F
Ignition Timing Adv: 31.5deg
Short Term Fuel trim1: 0%
Long Term Fuel trim3: 34.3%
My idle is very smooth, almost stock-like feel.
I understand this mount is stiffer, but these results are def. not right.
NOW, a couple of things to consider:
- My car runs rich. exhaust tip is black. any solution to this? (new fuel filter? spark plugs?)
- I doubt the o2 sensor is causing the vibrations but should i clean out the o2 sensors?
- Should I install my prothane trans mounts and see if it's better?
I feel the current setup will cause more problems with the o2 sensors. Please let me know your thoughts on this!
installing the prothanes might help.... but is your car tuned?
if you had something related to knock causing problems then I could see it being vibration related... or maybe one of the O2 sensors getting damaged from excessive vibration (I don't see that happening tho)
it may just be a coincidence.
After 100's of these sold, this is the first time we have ever heard of this. Replace the bad sensor, and I am sure your troubles will go away.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
The vibes were pretty rough at the start for me with TTR upper and lower(also have prothant tranny mount installed), but after about a month (7000-8000k)the vibes went down a lot. My car still vibrates a bit, mainly in the low rpm like you said 1-3k. At idle you can notice the cigerette in your hand shaking, but nothing horrible.
Is it cold where you are splattero? Hopefully they dumb down a bit when summer comes.
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:installing the prothanes might help.... but is your car tuned?
if you had something related to knock causing problems then I could see it being vibration related... or maybe one of the O2 sensors getting damaged from excessive vibration (I don't see that happening tho)
it may just be a coincidence.
am not tuned, would it help with running rich? i hope to connect with somebody from the org who has HPT this spring. how would i know if i have knock?
Turbo Tech Racing wrote:After 100's of these sold, this is the first time we have ever heard of this. Replace the bad sensor, and I am sure your troubles will go away.
I reset the Check Engine light, not there now. Am worried about the vibrations though. They are definitely caused by the mount. Does it matter which side of the mount faces the ground?
Shane Reid wrote:The vibes were pretty rough at the start for me with TTR upper and lower(also have prothant tranny mount installed), but after about a month (7000-8000k)the vibes went down a lot. My car still vibrates a bit, mainly in the low rpm like you said 1-3k. At idle you can notice the cigerette in your hand shaking, but nothing horrible.
Is it cold where you are splattero? Hopefully they dumb down a bit when summer comes.
VERY cold, it has already hit close to 0 degree weather. Did you say after a month OR 7,000 miles? My car idles great, even with AC on there is almost no vibration.
You LTFT tells me I should tell you to check for air leaks in the exhaust pre-O2.
The o2 is telling the computer you are lean when obviously your not, which is why Long Term fuel trims are WAY high...either a misfire or exhaust leak would be most likely.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
I drove that much in a month, so broke it in pretty fast. No vibration with AC on? That's sweet.
IDK why I got a PM asking my about this but OK
Yes zero degree temps will make the car vibrate a bit worse... I have stock mounts in my car still (I should really change them) and when I fired up my car yesterday just to let it idle in the driveway (doesn't get driven in the winter) the whole car was vibrating for a little while.... I could just imagine how bad it would be with something like you have.... Im betting the fact they are still new and its cold as hell is what is causing it..
The black crap in an aftermarket exhaust is normal... pretty much any modified car is gunna do that especially if it isnt tuned, your car is going to run a little rich completely stock from the factory anyway and a higher flow exhaust just makes it more noticeable..
I have a full exhaust and cams in my car on a stock tune and I get the black soot in my tailpipe constantly and I have to be running a little rich still.... even most cars set up like mine but with a good tune still do it a little.
The CEL has almost gotta be from your rear O2 (the one in the cat)... either an aftermarket exhaust is causing it (depending on what you have) or it just needs replaced.
I am curious about this..
Ignition Timing Adv: 31.5deg
Is that before TDC? that sounds really high at idle if it is.. shouldnt it be more like 12 degrees BTDC? or is that measured differently when captured that way?
If thats BTDC... that would cause some problems.
hey i have 2003 cavalier he's problem sound like my problem before my ecotec 2.2l throw a piston rod. The check engine light came on and said map high and low saying it was running rich.i took the engine apart after one of the piston rod bolt came undone the other side broke off. now i am replacing the engine .
Alex Richards wrote:You LTFT tells me I should tell you to check for air leaks in the exhaust pre-O2.
The o2 is telling the computer you are lean when obviously your not, which is why Long Term fuel trims are WAY high...either a misfire or exhaust leak would be most likely.
This. Also, if your car is NOT tuned, it should NOT be running rich. Second vote for sensor issue.
^^^ im not taking pig rich LOL... just a little bit...
Factory tune = toward the rich side for safety reasons... like in the low 13 range.
I am curiouse about the timing thing though.. 30 degrees?
Weebel wrote:^^^ im not taking pig rich LOL... just a little bit...
Factory tune = toward the rich side for safety reasons... like in the low 13 range.
I am curiouse about the timing thing though.. 30 degrees?
Very much normal timing BTDC at 2100 Rpm and almost 50% load. No worries here...Timing is right on the money.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
I quess im just still too used to timing lights.
Weebel wrote:Im betting the fact they are still new and its cold as hell is what is causing it..
The black crap in an aftermarket exhaust is normal... pretty much any modified car is gunna do that especially if it isnt tuned, your car is going to run a little rich completely stock from the factory anyway and a higher flow exhaust just makes it more noticeable..
I have a full exhaust and cams in my car on a stock tune and I get the black soot in my tailpipe constantly and I have to be running a little rich still.... even most cars set up like mine but with a good tune still do it a little.
I am curious about this..
Ignition Timing Adv: 31.5deg
Is that before TDC? that sounds really high at idle if it is.. shouldnt it be more like 12 degrees BTDC? or is that measured differently when captured that way?
If thats BTDC... that would cause some problems.
They do seem to have went down in vibrations a tiny bit.
Am hoping to run seafom in the spring for the first time, clean out some of the junk.
Cams in your car with no tune? That can't be safe...?
Am not really sure what ITA is or TDC/BTDC???
oldskool (lol@changin names) wrote:
Also, if your car is NOT tuned, it should NOT be running rich. Second vote for sensor issue.
I run rich in the mid range, have to be since my exhaust tip is pitch black.
I lean out at the top since my cars feels like its studdering a little bit/not getting enough fuel.
Spalattero wrote:
I run rich in the mid range, have to be since my exhaust tip is pitch black.
I lean out at the top since my cars feels like its studdering a little bit/not getting enough fuel.
what octane are you running? I ran 89 in my Sunfire and it pulled all the way to redline. No added benifits with 93 octane, just a lighter wallet.
I miss my Sunfire, I want it back!
MMMM, HIDs
You will be missed.
The Evil J wrote:Spalattero wrote:
I run rich in the mid range, have to be since my exhaust tip is pitch black.
I lean out at the top since my cars feels like its studdering a little bit/not getting enough fuel.
what octane are you running? I ran 89 in my Sunfire and it pulled all the way to redline. No added benifits with 93 octane, just a lighter wallet.
I run 87. Don't get me wrong it pulls, just at times studders for a split second 2-3 times from a 40-80 pull.
Try a slightly higher octane, if the studaring goes away, great, if not, go back to 87. I would run at least a tankful of 89. Worst case senario you're out a couple extra bucks.
I miss my Sunfire, I want it back!
MMMM, HIDs
You will be missed.
Running cams on a stock tune is perfectly safe... you just dont get the full benefit with out a tune.. but the car runs completely fine. (I just havnt justified spending the money for all the tuning crap yet)
Its not like I have soo much duration the idle lopes or anything... then you'de almost have to tune it.
And I run 87 octane with no problems myself.
I noticed a differance in the 05 sunfire I had when I switched to 89. My wife and I now have a 200 Nissan Altima and a 1995 Honda Accord, and find that they like 89 better than 87. Side note, I do plan on getting back into J tuning at some point.
I miss my Sunfire, I want it back!
MMMM, HIDs
You will be missed.
