this may be easier to lump all my remaining questions here as im building this motor...
i just pulled the timing chain crank sprocket off my old motor and slid it on the new motor... problem is, i had to use the puller to remove it off the old crank, while it slides very freely on the new crank... is the crank different between 96-99 and 00 - 02... my coworker said the harmonic balancer should hold the sprocket in place...
suggestions?
I'm trying to visualize this in my head right now seeing I am not buy my car. The little 'key' thingie on the crank holds the balancer in place. The crank sprocket sits behind that. So I am thinking(going off memory) that the balancer should hold the sprocket there in place.
And im sure the cranks are physically the same between the years.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
The sprocket has always been a slip fit for me. It was probably just held on by some build up.
ok, got the oil pan on, now putting on the head studs... i assume the torque specs given in the other thread are for the nuts, what about the studs themselves?
^^Just hand tight with yoru allen key. Get em snug though.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
the one front and center is a bit lower than the rest... is this normal?
EDIT: 5:00 pm... im about to head out of work... (sucks when work comes along and prevents me from working on my motor... =P)
imma let the copper spray dry overnight on the head gasket and install everything else tomorrow.
i'll post some pics up in my progress thread in p/m later on tonight...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, February 19, 2010 2:15 PM
did you spray the gasket itself OFF the block or did you spray it while sitting on the block?
Thats fine about the studs. I have a couple that are lower than the rest on my motor.
Note, Im not sure what HG you have but I have a Cometic one. I talked to a guy at Cometic today and they recommend you install them dry. However, when I installed mine I did use copper spray as well and it never hurt my motor and it has 3000 boosted miles on that gasket. Just do at LIGHT coating though, doesn't have to be heavy.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
i hung the gasket up and coated it so there was a solid layer on top and bottom, i also sprayed in between the layers as best i could
from what ive heard from clydes experiences its best to cut the rivets, spray between them, then install.
i read this too... but the motor guys here at work said i should be fine coating the whole thing in copper spray and torquing it down.
i have a question now on spark plug gap.... with all the internal mods, should i gap the plugs differently, or no??
i'm running AC Delco Rapidfire plugs
unsure on gapping but make sure you index them.
indexing is new to me... in theory i need to line up the ground electrode towards the center facing the exhaust valve? being that i can't see but so far down (especiallly when the motor is in the car and its time to replace the plugs), how would i index them?
z yaaaa wrote:from what ive heard from clydes experiences its best to cut the rivets, spray between them, then install.
That was the only way to keep mine from leaking from between the layers. I had to put a very nice coat of copper spray on both sides of each layer. I got sick of pulling the head 3 weekends in a row due to coolant leaks by 200 miles. Cometic cant make a good HG for the 2.4 as far as I am concerned.
hey clyde, was it on my block that you had to pull 3 weekends in a row?
clyde- do you know of anyone else that had issues with a cometic?
kyle- what you do if you dont have a spare head lying around is mark the area on the head where you want the electrode to face and mark the TOP of the plug facing the same way as the electrode, that way when you snug it down you know just where the electrode faces....
then, to get it in the correct position you want, you simply put washers underneath the plug threads to set it up some. you can get them in different thicknesses to get to you're desired position.
make sure you sharpen the electrodes as well.
why do i need to index? one of the platnum master techs here said since the head is hemi-speherical, i'll see no gain by indexing..
I didn't index anything either and Ive been boosted 4 years now, first i've heard about this.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
who said anything about 'needing' to do it?
do you wash your car and dry it? do you torque bolts down? do you blow ur load on a girl and go get her a kleenex?
its just like anything else, the fine tuning of life.
ok guys new question....
whats the torque spec on the 2 sets of 4 bolts behind the cam sprockets that mate the timing chain housing to the valvecover/camtower
all data has failed me here
GM Manual says
19 lb. ft.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
damn kyle pick up a damn haynes manual!
^^ LOLZ
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
You will be fine not indexing the plugs. If you want to be 100% anal about it, then index the plugs.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
