So, I am changing to the HO valve springs(I was convinced lol) and I do NOT want to take the head off the car AGAIN. Why, because I will have to buy another 85.00 Cometic headgasket. I talked to them yesterday and they recommend to replace them after a heat cycle if you take the head off the car. Another reason is because both surfaces must be clean and debri free to install the Cometic gasket. Usually, depending on mileage on the gasket that involves the maching shop to clean the head and bloc surfaces(Unless you guys know a way)
My Cometic only has 4000 miles on it so is nice and sealed.
Thanks to Jason(Blwn LD9) he showed me a link
Here
The problem is, with the 2.4 motor there is no way to get the C shaped valve spring compressor to attach to the valve with the head still on the car. I just tried on my motor, no go.
Now the V6 and the V8 guys have a tool where they bolt the tool to the rocker arm, and just pry down to compress the valve springs when re-installing.
Do you guys have any genius tool Ideas that we can use to compress the springs on the head while its still in the car, on the block? Of course there needs to be something to hold the springs in place and thats where the air compressor and spark plug hole come in. The compressed air keeps the valve there while on TDC. Thats not the issue, the issue COMPRESSING the valve springs upon re-installing.
What are you thoughts?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, February 20, 2010 6:34 PM
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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wow... you got me brother.
you could smack the retainer with like a socket and get them to come OFF but getting them back on... fml i have no idea.
Get a spring compressor similar to this...
Should be able to get one @ Sears,maybe Orielly or VatoZone. Makes it pretty easy.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Brad your right, I was gonna use a socket to get em off anyway lol, but getting them back on was the other story.
YES, thanks Gary. That looks like it should work. Would I connect the bottom of that tool to say..... the valve seat?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
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easier. . . . me and AJ found they were slightly difficult to line up properly. IF you have a way of hooking down a lever system, as described in the link, that would really be the only way. possibly bolting a fork shaped object with a swivel point on it into the head would be the best option, and could possibly be used. yes, you would be forced to make said tool, but you could be very successful with it in other uses as well.
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what gary posted is exactly what you need. what you do is set the hooks in the valve spring it self as far down in the coils as you can, and spin the handle til you can compress the spring enough to get the retainer and keepers on/off then release the pressure on the spring and done.
i have that same style compressor in my garage, i believe it was $15 at sears
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Saturday, February 20, 2010 7:27 PM
Brad(flat black) Thanks man, I was in my garage trying to make a leverage tool, but couldn't find anything or come up with an idea.
Thanks for the confirmation Jon. I think I will get this tool tomorrow at Sears.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I have used the exact same tool as pictured, works great everytime....will solve your problems.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Might as well retorque your head studs while your in there.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
WHITECAVY wrote:Brad(flat black) Thanks man, I was in my garage trying to make a leverage tool, but couldn't find anything or come up with an idea.
Thanks for the confirmation Jon. I think I will get this tool tomorrow at Sears.
heck, it was worth a shot. next chance I get and I have some spare material around, I may try to figure something out.
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john317(AKA Gary the Old guy) wrote:Might as well retorque your head studs while your in there.
yes, yes, yes. gary that is a damn good advisement.
and holy hell i never knew you could change springs like this. very bad ass.
Joshua Dearman wrote:I have used the exact same tool as pictured, works great everytime....will solve your problems.
Josh did you use air to keep the valves in place?
Yep Ill re-torque again.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
WHITECAVY wrote:Joshua Dearman wrote:I have used the exact same tool as pictured, works great everytime....will solve your problems.
Josh did you use air to keep the valves in place?
Yep Ill re-torque again.
Yes sir I did. I Gutted and old spark plug and braised a pipe to it with 1/4" NPT to my air compressor.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
^^^ which also works well for leak down testing.
thanks for this post, im changing to ho spring too
Location: Montreal, Quebec
theres a tool for this in the gm quad4 special tool box
its like a prybar , kinda like pictured above. you know anyone with the tools? im pretty sure im too far away
^^Scott I sure don't know anybody with that tool
Roofy thanks man, thats way too expensive though lol.
I'm just gonna by what Gary pictured. I already have a leak down hose that I can attach to my air compressor.
Anybody know the thread size of our spark plugs real quick? My leak down hose thread is 14 and 18mm. (I havent opend the package yet to try)
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I am glad I was able to help
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi
LG0/LD9 for Life
Its 14mm David, and I got that tool.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
So just to clarify... when removing the valve springs, while the head remains attached to the block, I need to complete one cylinder at a time making sure the valves are closed and use compressed air to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder. I'll have to rotate the engine, lets say twice, to replace all the springs.
correct?
No need to rotate anything. You'll have to remove the cams anyway to replace the springs. If it were me I would put the engine at TDC on compression stroke for #1 cylinder, remove the cams, do everything at once, and replace the water pump while I was at it. If you got more than 50,000 miles or so I would go ahead and replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner as well.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
pretty much.
there is a way of doing it without compressed air though, in case none is available. i actually just read about this last week in my Haynes manual lol.
remove the spark plug from 1 cylinder, thread a length of rope into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole, thread it in in kind of a spiral so that it neatly fills the entire combustion chamber. then what you do is rotate the motor by hand until you feel the resistance of the rope against the cylinder head
DON'T FORCE IT ANY FURTHER. this will hold the valves in place while you're removing the springs. do this one cylinder at a time, make sure to leave enough of the rope out of the chamber so you can get pull it back out. when you're done with your spring work you will have to turn the motor backwards slightly by hand just enough to remove pressure off of the rope, to get it out. replace spark plug, move on to next cylinder.
compressed air is probably easier, but if you don't have it available then this is a nice option as well
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:05 AM
well then... people really shouldnt be moaning about doing 2.3 valve springs now.
they are like $70 from auto parts stores LOL
with this possible it makes swapping to a reliable ho cam setup a whole hell of a lot easier.
GM makes special tools to replace the springs without pulling the head.
