Hey
what would be the best stuff to build my bottom end with? been looking at the stuff on allecotec.com, wondering if theres any stores or websites ppl suggest? i have a 2.2 s/c with a 3.0pulley going to go down to 2.8 though and a good tune, so what do you have and what should i get?
13.22 @ 105.2
Eagle rods and Weisco pistons will work just fine for you. They are rated for 700ish hp. What are your power goals?
well i figure i may be like 230?hp now... not to sure, but id like to sit at like 275whp, somewhere around that, i will be doing supporting mods; inj, exh...etc so im hoping to be around that, My ultamite goal is 300whp and around the same number for tq
13.22 @ 105.2
For that i'd just do rods, pistons, and a hardened oil pump(or cryo treated).
id just do rods and pistons. the hardened oil pump gear is mainly for two steps and isnt really needed for that power level.
im aiming higher with a new stock oil pump gear. todd said it wasnt necessary to put the hardened one in unless jon was running a 2 step.
OP: id go with allecotec.com lowest prices w/ free shipping. id also look into opening your head up. get that sc air moving a bit easier and quicker.
I've Seen those oil pump gears shatter on stock cars I would get them if you build it. As stated eagle rods,weisco pistons. Get oil pump gears from bates about $70 cheaper then all ecotec and he cant match price i tried.
We don't recommend any head porting in your case. Our 640 WHP Sunfire does it with a stock head casting and valves. You won't need porting or 'opening up' unless you are getting very extreme.
And yes, definitely do the oil pump gears for good insurance. Don't forget some good valve springs and head studs, and you're all set!
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
see i live in canada so i guess no free shipping, but im going to try a few shops around town and see what they give me price wise, would i really need those gears? cause thats another 350us that id have to spend
lol thats an LSD insert lol but mind you i will be running the 2.8 inch pulley and might just go down to the 2.5 and get the honning tool, but we'll see, i wanna focus more on the build and getting the best price and right info
13.22 @ 105.2
Get the pistons/rods and i would do the oil pump gear as well..
The heat the M62 is going to produce with a 2.5" is going to negate any hp gains. Once you start going lower than 2.7 you start taking the M62 out of its efficiency range. Personally the smallest i'd go on the M62 is a 2.9.
Jean,
Ditto on getting the Eagle Rods and Wiesco Pistons, I'd go with the stock 10:1 CR seeing as that blower doesn't push much air.
I'd say the oil pump gears aren't really nessacary unless you are running a 2-step or plan on bouncing the limiter often, or so GM says in the Build Book.
I'd look into getting the Comp blower grind cams and some springs as well. They make a HUGE differance from what I've read.
I think Jon (Airtronics) has been the only person to break the 270whp mark on the M62, so you might have a hard time getting that blower to push out 300whp without some juice.
Should be a cool build tho, good luck!
newt wrote:
I'd say the oil pump gears aren't really nessacary unless you are running a 2-step or plan on bouncing the limiter often, or so GM says in the Build Book. (and Todd Miller)
I think Jon (Airtronics) has been the only person to break the 270whp mark on the M62, so you might have a hard time getting that blower to push out 300whp without some juice.
and that motor which i now have still has a new GM stock gear. and no plans to change it at the power level im aiming for. maybe if i decide to go higher ill have to sleeve the block and then i might go with the hardened gear. but otherwise its not necessary if you want to save some money.
I wouldnt say its not necessary some people like the insurance of not blowing up there motor cause they didnt want to spend 285 on some gears after they spent at least 5 grand on a turbo build.Like i said ive seen stock ecotecs wear those gears bad and crack throw 300-400hp into the mix.
well im just giving my 2 cents but i would get the oil gears regardless.....i mean since you are building and putting in rods and pistons why not
it really is cheap insurance and i would hate to see a whole motor done bc of a failing stocker
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
yeah thought about it and not going to do the 2.5... just going to put my 2.8 on, probably not going to get the gears just because im cheap and id rather spend that on valve springs then buy the blower cams. going the stock compression but might do .020 overbore deppending on my cyl walls. ive got a bit of time to see what my oppsions are so... yeah i bought my pulleys and meth off airtonics, good guy! i wish i woulda bought his motor
going to do my bottom end first, then will see when i can do the cams and springs
13.22 @ 105.2
plus the oil pump gear you can swap out with the motor in the car after the fact too.
Another choice would be also www.TurboTechRacing.com
If we can help you in any way let us know.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
newt wrote:
I think Jon (Airtronics) has been the only person to break the 270whp mark on the M62, so you might have a hard time getting that blower to push out 300whp without some juice.
For J-bodies. Cobalt guys do it. My M62 came off a 284whp Cobalt.
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:We don't recommend any head porting in your case. Our 640 WHP Sunfire does it with a stock head casting and valves. You won't need porting or 'opening up' unless you are getting very extreme.
Wow i didn't know the sunfire was running a stock head!
In this case however, with the positive displacement supercharger, wouldn't he benefit from a thoughtfully ported head? Sure he doesn't "need" it, but there would be a power gain over a stock casting, as i'm sure ther would be on the sunfire.
