does any one know how to make a high rev engine and which engine would be good for this high rev and turbo
primarly high rev
It depends on what you want, but to turn higher rpms your looking for forged internals, better valve springs, seated valves, better pulleys, the list goes on and on but also to get past the stock set redline you will need a HPTuners or Megasquirt
Erik Packard
Along with what was said above youll want to ditch your balance shafts and it wouldnt hurt to lighten the crank. Also im assuming you already know this but youll need better cams to make power up high and ground for the turbo.
more crank work than just lightening. i would also look into titanium parts, for lighter rotating mass, if you're going for high rpms. how high are you going?
my figuring to go bout 10 to be evil for a race and convient honda killer and make a evo think about running
The rod ratio is important too.
Light-weight flywheel would help, although I've heard bad things about the fidanza's (not sure about this, no personal experience with them).
which engine do you have?
well there are many ways to get what u want, its going to require some experimentation on ur part, and as far as needing 10,000 rpm to beat a honda, u dont need that much rpm, sure hondas are capable of reving higher but if u have pad close attention to one when racing a cavalier the gears are not that much longer, and they go thru the rpm range faster. so for the thousands that u would spend just to be able to rev higher its not worth it. my suggestion would be to not focus on a rpm number but to focus one building a solid engine all around and the rpms will come, here is some of what u may need just so u know this isnt an easy task
cams, capable of making power that high
a pretty big turbo
lighter pulleys
larger injectors
lightweight lifters can help too, if u can find them
better valve springs
retainers
lighter valves
a crank that has been lightened, forged and possible knife edged
forged low comp pistons
eagle rods will be fine because titanium rods cost a lot more
a lot of head work and block work
lightweight flywheel
a really good clutch
a really good way of tuning, and by the way u wont get higher rpms by just adding any of this stuff u need to be able to set the rpm in ur tune, dont push it at first allow all ur parts to break in for a few hundred mile before u start doing test like max rpm on ur motor
im sure anyone who has done a serious build can add tons more to this list, like i said it all depends on what u want, and how much ur willing to risk just to prove something to a guy in a honda, it doesnt take much to beat a stock evo either, on a roll a 250whp cav would slowly pull away from an evo i know this first hand,
if it can't win a race it better win a show
1fast 2point3 wrote:it doesnt take much to beat a stock evo either, on a roll a 250whp cav would slowly pull away from an evo i know this first hand,
and some of these 250 WHP cav's have been N/A.
I dont think anyone has answered the question on what motor to run, go with the LD9 or the Eco
1fast 2point3 wrote:well there are many ways to get what u want, its going to require some experimentation on ur part, and as far as needing 10,000 rpm to beat a honda, u dont need that much rpm, sure hondas are capable of reving higher but if u have pad close attention to one when racing a cavalier the gears are not that much longer, and they go thru the rpm range faster. so for the thousands that u would spend just to be able to rev higher its not worth it. my suggestion would be to not focus on a rpm number but to focus one building a solid engine all around and the rpms will come, here is some of what u may need just so u know this isnt an easy task
cams, capable of making power that high
a pretty big turbo
lighter pulleys
larger injectors
lightweight lifters can help too, if u can find them
better valve springs
retainers
lighter valves
a crank that has been lightened, forged and possible knife edged
forged low comp pistons
eagle rods will be fine because titanium rods cost a lot more
a lot of head work and block work
lightweight flywheel
a really good clutch
a really good way of tuning, and by the way u wont get higher rpms by just adding any of this stuff u need to be able to set the rpm in ur tune, dont push it at first allow all ur parts to break in for a few hundred mile before u start doing test like max rpm on ur motor
im sure anyone who has done a serious build can add tons more to this list, like i said it all depends on what u want, and how much ur willing to risk just to prove something to a guy in a honda, it doesnt take much to beat a stock evo either, on a roll a 250whp cav would slowly pull away from an evo i know this first hand,
why go through all that crank work and then not put in titanium rods?
i think he was being sarcastic in a way... it'll get the job done... it just won't last forever (which is why i stuck to a 3lb knife edge)
dave... no, i dont... but several race cars running around the state of iowa that have tons of races under their belts with this exact amount of crank work done tell me that its going to be just fine.
i like how everyone thinks its going to be weak. why? nothing done really messes with the structural integrity. it balances out better than stock, so wtf is the problem?
We all need somebody to believe in something...
If you are trying to build a GM engine that will push close to 10K RPM's, the 2.0 ECO will be the easiest and most reliable choice. If you wanted to try it with a Quad4 engine, I would either use the 2.3L or if you can find the destroked crank Mantapart had for Midgets, then the the 2.3L Quad block with the 2.0L crank. I personally would never try it with any variant of the Quad though, since you'll want to use solid lifters, and there is no simple way to adjust lash on a quad.
So, my vote goes to 2.0L ECO.
I have no signiture
z yaaaa wrote:dave... no, i dont... but several race cars running around the state of iowa that have tons of races under their belts with this exact amount of crank work done tell me that its going to be just fine.
i like how everyone thinks its going to be weak. why? nothing done really messes with the structural integrity. it balances out better than stock, so wtf is the problem?
i don't think its gonna be weak. you took off of the weights, which doesn't take much from structural integrity. if you tried making journals really small i would have something to say though, lol
and i hope you know i was being sarcastic...you've done a lot more than most on here
oh ok. my bad...
sarcasm > me
We all need somebody to believe in something...
actually, what is the fascination with 10,000 rpms anyway, that kind of rpm takes a lot more than what most people put into their builds, even some of the more involved builds cant do that consistently and reliably, even to build an eco that could do it daily and not be on edge of breaking something every time would be very expensive, its also very expensive to do it in either the honda or evo that u want to beat, 7500 is more than enough rpm and its about the limit that most people are willing to push their motors, there are a few exceptions to that, but that extra 2500 rpm is not worth sabatoging your whole build. no matter what ur rpm limit is, if ur boosted u should finish the 1/4 mile in the middle of fourth gear anyway, unless ur pushing serious power, this is just some safe advice, but im all for people pushing our motors to see what they are really capable of handling,
if it can't win a race it better win a show
if its the ecotec, gm sells a destroked crank that will help.
