After Oldskool completed his freakotec swap and had it running and after the bash, Oldskool, Pj, and Myself are extremely confident in the ability to swap these bottom ends into L61 equipped cars. Possibly more. I have a machinist I know who can machine us just the wheels for a fairly decent price, HOWEVER without having a definite answer of how many we want, he doesn't know a definite price. Depending on how many I have it should be within 50-70 a wheel. Which is MUCH better then TCE's price.
So as this sits, if you want a 6+1 crank trigger wheel please post here.
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, August 13, 2010 8:49 PM
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I'd be interested but maybe a better explanation as to what this would do for us....
I am assuming it allows us to run the 2.4 bottom end with a little tuning but yah....
This allows you to run an LE5 or LSJ bottom end in our cars. I dont know whats hard to understand. Without this you cannot run those bottom ends in our cars due to the fact that they have different reluctor wheels.
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Well no need to talk down to people, but not everyone knows that the LE5/LSJ runs a different trigger wheel...
Figured an clear explanation would help your sales for all the people that arent sure about this fact. But go on.
I'm interested in oldskool's build? Where can I get more info on it? I have not heard of it.
FU Tuning
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
what did he do about the cam issue? i know picking the right cam was originally a concern...although i guess telling a cam company your specs would make sure they give you a good cam cuz matching a cam to an engine is what they do.
oh sorry, CAMS....i'm too used to talkin about my 2200, lol!
hey guys, from the LOOKS of it, the trigger wheel your looking at making has the same notches as the 2.3 quad4 . and since the wheel for the quad is no longer made there are a couple quad guys looking to get ahold of one.
It might be in your interest to add their name to your list.
also, your going to need a way to mount the pickup sensor..does that price include the mount for a sensor?
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
3. Evilution (matt)
Dave De Stefano wrote:what did he do about the cam issue? i know picking the right cam was originally a concern...although i guess telling a cam company your specs would make sure they give you a good cam cuz matching a cam to an engine is what they do.
I'm pretty sure he mix and matched a set of comp cams...I think one was the blower cam (i forget if that was intake or exhaust side) and I don't remember the other..turbo grind maybe. Either way, the le5 comes with semi bumpy cams, so you're gonna want to go bumpy, lol.
Screaming For Mercy!! wrote:I'm interested in oldskool's build? Where can I get more info on it? I have not heard of it.
Freakotec Swap
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
3. Evilution (matt)
4.03lssportblue (jason)
if you can get it under 80 im in without a doubt
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
I'll have a price for sure tuesday, I'll let you all know. From what I talked with him today it's going to be below 70$.
Once I get a definite price I'll throw up a GP
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If it can be adapted to an ld9 or quad 4 fairly easy I'm in.
it can, I believe you guys also use the 6+1 wheel
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Yep, this thing pretty much started right up using an external wheel. The "reference" or extra tooth should be located 70 degrees after TDC with respect to the CKP sensor location, and your good to go. For those who don't feel like reading the build thread, I mounted the sensor with a simple L-bracket on the bottom/aft timing cover bolt. If you remove the crank position sensor from an L61 and observe the wheel as you rotate the engine, the groove comes around right at TDC, not in the "dwell" time. I think my initial install may have been advanced a few degrees, causing the need to retard timing via HPT. Hopefully everyone doing this swap realizes that tuning will be required for best performance.
As far as cam selection goes - EcotecFiero reported less than stellar top-end performance with a stock L61 head on a stock LE5 bottom end. This, to me, is expected when you see the stock LE5 cam specs (refer to build book). They have more lift/duration than stock L61 cams.
Running comp's blower grind, the car performed quite well up to at least 6000rpm. I didn't take it much above that while still tuning it before a crappy valve spring broke.
Take this for what it's worth -
For stock-ish LE5 n/a performance - comp stage 1
For a decent turbo/s/c cam - phased comp stage 2 or 3
For an all out n/a build - comp stage 3 or custom.
With respect to compression ratio, using a stock LE5 head gasket - you would be at about 11.1/1 static compression. I still think this can be tuned to run on 87 octane, but chances are anyone doing this swap doesn't care about cheap gas
Karo @ carcustoms can get custom thickness Cometic gaskets that will allow you to run a range of 9.3/1 up to about 11.5/1 c/r. Make sure you get the 89mm bore. And plan ahead because the custom thickness gaskets have about a 3-week lead time and cost about $120-130.
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
3. Evilution (matt)
4.03lssportblue (jason)
5.Ricardo R
6. AL1A5 (Andy)
7. vic28 (Victor)
oldskool (eco meatcake) wrote:Yep, this thing pretty much started right up using an external wheel. The "reference" or extra tooth should be located 70 degrees after TDC with respect to the CKP sensor location, and your good to go. For those who don't feel like reading the build thread, I mounted the sensor with a simple L-bracket on the bottom/aft timing cover bolt. If you remove the crank position sensor from an L61 and observe the wheel as you rotate the engine, the groove comes around right at TDC, not in the "dwell" time. I think my initial install may have been advanced a few degrees, causing the need to retard timing via HPT. Hopefully everyone doing this swap realizes that tuning will be required for best performance.
As far as cam selection goes - EcotecFiero reported less than stellar top-end performance with a stock L61 head on a stock LE5 bottom end. This, to me, is expected when you see the stock LE5 cam specs (refer to build book). They have more lift/duration than stock L61 cams.
Running comp's blower grind, the car performed quite well up to at least 6000rpm. I didn't take it much above that while still tuning it before a crappy valve spring broke.
Take this for what it's worth -
For stock-ish LE5 n/a performance - comp stage 1
For a decent turbo/s/c cam - phased comp stage 2 or 3
For an all out n/a build - comp stage 3 or custom.
With respect to compression ratio, using a stock LE5 head gasket - you would be at about 11.1/1 static compression. I still think this can be tuned to run on 87 octane, but chances are anyone doing this swap doesn't care about cheap gas Karo @ carcustoms can get custom thickness Cometic gaskets that will allow you to run a range of 9.3/1 up to about 11.5/1 c/r. Make sure you get the 89mm bore. And plan ahead because the custom thickness gaskets have about a 3-week lead time and cost about $120-130.
I imagine that that part of the reason of desire for the 6+1 is not just the ease of reference... but the the effective "clocking" too, eh?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
3. Evilution (matt)
4.03lssportblue (jason)
5.Ricardo R
6. AL1A5 (Andy)
7. vic28 (Victor)
8. Smoosh (dan rysedorph)
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
3. Evilution (matt)
4.03lssportblue (jason)
5.Ricardo R
6. AL1A5 (Andy)
7. vic28 (Victor)
8. Smoosh (dan rysedorph)
9. Z's Z (Cory Zepp)
Nickelin, a real degree wheel would probably have been very useful, but we used marks on the crank pulley and a long dowel in a spark plug hole to get at TDC; then you just rotate the crank trigger wheel into the correct position before torquing it all down.. All i need to do to get it perfect is take a more careful look at the L61 and where that 70* groove comes by the sensor with respect to the position of the piston/crank pulley. I hope that makes some kind of sense
hmmm... i'll have to check funds but i think i'm in as well.
1. Qwibby (phil gruver)
2. Dave De Stefano
3. Evilution (matt)
4.03lssportblue (jason)
5.Ricardo R
6. AL1A5 (Andy)
7. vic28 (Victor)
8. Smoosh (dan rysedorph)
9. Z's Z (Cory Zepp)
10. DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj)
oldskool (eco meatcake) wrote:Nickelin, a real degree wheel would probably have been very useful, but we used marks on the crank pulley and a long dowel in a spark plug hole to get at TDC; then you just rotate the crank trigger wheel into the correct position before torquing it all down.. All i need to do to get it perfect is take a more careful look at the L61 and where that 70* groove comes by the sensor with respect to the position of the piston/crank pulley. I hope that makes some kind of sense
Pretty much... It's seems alot like what to do to set initial when stabbing-in a distributor after the crank has been upset.
I wonder how much getting one machined for a different app would cost me at my local machinist? I've kicked-around an idea to ad EFI to a 4-cyl that never got it from the factory using as many GM produced parts as possible, just to see what results would be netted, and going this route would be alot better than adapting old TBI hardware to the feedback-carb management.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Don't worry guys I am still here, just waiting on a phone call. Once I get a price I will start a GP, once payment is received I will have them machined
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