i tore apart the spare ecotec. finding that it had a blown rod bearing, the others were fine. on cylinder 1 the bearing was in 5 peices and where it sits on the crank is alittle torn up not too bad but its noticable. cylinders 2,3,4 on the crank are still shiny and smooth. but where 1's rod bearing was on the crank is dull and scarred. what should i do??? buy a new crank. main/rod bearinds? or have mine "turned" and just get new bearings? or just get new bearings and leave the crank the way it is.. i need opinions.. im still doing the turbo build. so keep that in mind. and when you shoot me some opinons include some price estimates and links to parts that you suggests if you can. thank you.
If theres any damage to the crank journals, you should probably not just throw in new bearings and hope they work. I would take it to a competent machine shop and have them look at it. Sounds like you'll need to have the crank machined and then go with undersize bearings.
undersized? but if they machine it, it will take amtterial off of the crank journals... therefore i should need oversized to take up the excces space right?>?
Its because the journals are now undersized, not that the bearings are undersized.
well, that makes a lot of sense. Now i feel like a ratard.
Anyways a new crank from gm runs about 450.00(from gmpd) plus shipping. I've seen a few go for around 150-200 on ebay every now and again. You could always try to find one of the eagle cranks, but those are getting very hard to find with the timing ring.
Also eveywhere I look(ttr,ipp, napa, etc) all want like 300+ for the main bearings. GM only wants about 30. Main bearing part number #12591092(stock size). Rod bearings #12591093(stock sized). Check the napa link above they carry undersized rod and main bearings. Looks like the rod bearings are about 44 and the mains are 375. You will also need new main bolts. 20x pn#11571239 and 10x pn#11588733. Good luck with the build.
The once we carry are clevitte multi layer steel, (77 series) used in many high performance engine builds including nascar.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
so why will i need new main bolts?i kept the ones i have in order what will happen if i dont get new ones? what happens if i get an eagle crank without the timming ring??? i found an eagle crank for 350 shipped.. good price?
The main bolts are tourque to yield. I custom made some arp studs when I did my lower end. When I was blueprinting my build clevite website has all your minimums and mean measurements. I went with clevite 77s but the performance version and had my buddy at a prostock company Teflon coat them. Good luck finding those girdle bolts. I have some nice pictures if you wanna see how I did mine. Would also reccomend a line bore.
ya its amazing that they are torqued to yield but it you go to a GM dealership, they reuse your head bolts
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen
anyone have a good link to a set of head studs and main studs??
Carcustoms.net has ARP ones.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
