hello, i have a 1997 pontiac sunfire, with a 2.2L five speed manual.. there is nothing wrong with the engine.. but i have a three cylinder Yanmar turbo diesel engine, that i have been building.. i know i haft to custom make the engine mounts and bell housing adapter plate.. my question is.. dose anyone have the engine already out of the car? i need measurements for all the bell housing bolts.. and i would like some pictures of the engine cradle... i have a cert in welding so im good there... but i need some ideas... thankyou... and i kno some of you are gonna say that it will be under powered... i honestly dont think it will.... its all about the fuel mpg!! Thankyou
I hope this get's completed, sounds interesting! I unfortunately don't have any measurements, just wanted to chime in for good luck!
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That sounds awesome. You should go for it! I love things that are outside of the box like this.
I don't have measurements on anything. But the FWD V6's use the same bellhousing, if that should become necessary.
As far as underpowered, I dunno. But I'm wondering about how fast that diesel revs to? I know they're typically lower than a gas engine. Definately don't wanna be maxing the engine out in top gear to hold highway speed.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
SHOoff wrote:I don't have measurements on anything. But the FWD V6's use the same bellhousing, if that should become necessary.
As far as underpowered, I dunno. But I'm wondering about how fast that diesel revs to? I know they're typically lower than a gas engine. Definately don't wanna be maxing the engine out in top gear to hold highway speed.
Im aware that the diesels rev limits are alot lower..( good looking out!!) But i got it covered.. on my transmission the left output seal is leaking bad.. so when the engine swap is done.. i plan to rebuild the transmission.... So if its under powered or revs out to early.. i will change the ring and pinion inside the tranny ..well thats my plan anyway..
I will be posting pictures!! for your amusement!!.. thanks for all the thumbs up!!! and i found a guy that did the same swap! only he used a two cylinder yanmar in a ford fiesta
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPuv_6bZKwY
Nothing to help you out but this sounds awesome! Definitely keep us updated with lots of pics!
"In Oldskool we trust"
If anyone has any ideas, thoughts,tips or suggestions.. please feel free to post it!! thats why i posted on this forum..... And can someone please tell me how to post pictures?? i have them in my email... but i cant get them on here!! I just got back from my local metal yard.. got some steel and welding wire!!
I have a sedan sitting beside the house without a motor, tranny is still there though. If I get a chance ill snap some pictures and take some measurements. If I can, ill take some scale pictures for you.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
DSMskyline wrote:I have a sedan sitting beside the house without a motor, tranny is still there though. If I get a chance ill snap some pictures and take some measurements. If I can, ill take some scale pictures for you.
Thats what i need!!! Thank you.. here is my email if it would be easier to send them there... broken95zj@aol.com
here is the eingine im planning on useing... this was before the rebuild..
the car i plan to do this with!!! bone stock..
The turbo!
my welder, toolbox and some steel i got for the build..http://mail.aol.com/33298-111/aol-6/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=26335702&folder=OldMail&partId=0
home made welding clamp!! haha make fun!! but it works like a champ..
I think the best way you can go about this is to bolt the engine and tranny together with your adapter.
Bolt the tranny into is stock mounts to keep the correct driveshaft aliment.
Put the some sort of poly or rubber damped mount on the engine.
Bolt some plate steel to the stock mounting points in the car.
Tack something between the two, remember to form triangles for strength.
take those mounts out and weld them up good.
finally get the engine in.
wire, do coolant lines, gas lines, etc
get your boost setup up.
add, oil, coolant, and gas.
tune
drive
post videos
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Joe Lech wrote:SHOoff wrote:I don't have measurements on anything. But the FWD V6's use the same bellhousing, if that should become necessary.
As far as underpowered, I dunno. But I'm wondering about how fast that diesel revs to? I know they're typically lower than a gas engine. Definately don't wanna be maxing the engine out in top gear to hold highway speed.
Im aware that the diesels rev limits are alot lower..( good looking out!!) But i got it covered.. on my transmission the left output seal is leaking bad.. so when the engine swap is done.. i plan to rebuild the transmission.... So if its under powered or revs out to early.. i will change the ring and pinion inside the tranny ..well thats my plan anyway..
I will be posting pictures!! for your amusement!!.. thanks for all the thumbs up!!! and i found a guy that did the same swap! only he used a two cylinder yanmar in a ford fiesta
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPuv_6bZKwY
I'd like to get my RPM lower in top gear too. Been having somewhat of a difficult time finding the necessary stuff to do that.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
SHOoff wrote:I'd like to get my RPM lower in top gear too. Been having somewhat of a difficult time finding the necessary stuff to do that.
Not to thread jack, but I heard that man. I'm always reaching for another gear on the highway...
OP: This is gonna be BA, stick with it and let us know how its all panning out!
"In Oldskool we trust"
Just an FYI your screwed if you have emissions
Yes but keep in mind .. say if you have a gear at 3.73.. and you change your ring and pinion to lets say 2.73.. you will get more top speed,and your engine wont be racing to keep you at 70 mph....
But with the lower ratio your car will start off slower feel underpowered, and take for ever to get up to that speed.. not to mention your speedometer will be off..
the opposite way.. say you have 3.73 gears and you put in 4.10's.. your car will start off alot faster but have no top speed..... but you will have so much torque you can pull a 25 foot boat with your 2.2l.. haha
That might be a larger than needed turbo for such a small diesel engine. I say that mainly because you will probably never be able to use the full potential of that turbo with the Injection pump being maxed out. Also what plans do you have for the IP as far as fuel load and governer adjustments so you can support more power to aid in moving a j-body.
Have you thought about installing a vacuum pump so you have use of the brake booster. Also I would def install a pyrometer gauge
Quote:
Watch your exhaust temperatures! Extended WOT of more than 10-20 seconds can create combustion temperatures high enough to damage the engine. This damage is not instant, its cumulative. The longer you run hot the more damage excessive temperatures will do and it won't be obvious there is a problem until its too late. 1250*F (675*C) is a safe limit for continuous output, 1500*F (815*C) for very short intervals (under 5 seconds).
I took that from superturbodiesel.com and give credit to Forced Induction from that site for that info regarding the EGT's.
Some food for thought: A KKK K26 turbo that comes on a Mercedes 300SD 3.0L 5cyl diesel can flow enough air for the motor even with a maxed out IP. That motor can put out around 160+ hp with a maxed out IP and the stock turbo and be happy.
I know you are saying you are looking for fuel mileage but if that motor cant make enough power you will be doing you more harm than good to be honest. Post the specs of the motor as far as size and model.
I personally will be doing a diesel swap in the future but with the same motor that powers my Mercedes. More than enough power with a maxed out IP plus a company already makes an adapter plate to bolt up to GM manual xmsns.
I understand what your saying.. And i don't have to use that turbo.. that is one i just happen to have.. it came off a 1.8L diesel.. i have one that came off a two cyl john deere.. but i was afraid the engine would over speed the turbo, because it is so tiny.. and the injection pump on this engine is turned as far as it will go..this whole build is gonna be trial and err..
a temp gauge is now on my list of things!! Thank you for that..
As you said ( if that motor cant make enough power you will be doing you more harm than good)..
like i said before, if the engine feels under powered i will change the ring and pinion inside the tranny..
that may kill some top speed, I just gotta find that sweet spot. in the gearing..
you cant blame me for trying something different.. haha,,
if it dosent work and was a big waste of time ill just put the 2.2 back in..but at least i can say i tryed
Joe Lech wrote:Yes but keep in mind .. say if you have a gear at 3.73.. and you change your ring and pinion to lets say 2.73.. you will get more top speed,and your engine wont be racing to keep you at 70 mph....
But with the lower ratio your car will start off slower feel underpowered, and take for ever to get up to that speed.. not to mention your speedometer will be off..
the opposite way.. say you have 3.73 gears and you put in 4.10's.. your car will start off alot faster but have no top speed..... but you will have so much torque you can pull a 25 foot boat with your 2.2l.. haha
Problem is that the Isuzu 5spd with the 2.2 has a 3.58. The other trans you will find to interchange to it has either a 3.83, 3.91, or 4.11 ratio. Going the opposite way is proving to be quite difficult. I want it mostly to have the lower RPM during cruise at highway speed for more MPG. I swapped a V6 into mine, so I've got plenty of ass on the low end to compensate well for the lower gear ratio. I dunno what it would do for 1/4 mile time, but it would probably help 0-60 time because of being able to stay in 2nd gear past 58mph.
The only thing that I've found is the Fiero 4spd Isuzu had a 3.31 or something like that. But I don't know if it'll even interchange.
As far as your speedometer, it reads from the axle side of your diff, so as long as the axle and tire is going the same speed, the speedo should be the same.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
As I subscribe to this... For those whom don't know it, here it is: Diesels aren't judged by their horsepower output... They're judged for their torque!
That said, if the total amount of air (Oxygen) in the cylinder under compression is high enough [as result of turbo selection & inter-cooler efficiency], it's overcome a seemingly too-low of FDR with little troubles. (Remember: It's not what you displace... It's how you displace it!)
BTW: there was a Metro Sedan that had a 3-cyl diesel fitted into it that made the pages of Diesel Power Magazine twice! You should look into that, as it got 70mpg, and it too was a 5-spd. The group that made it is currently offering to tell folks how to build one of their own on-line. I've been considering doing so, but with a 1st-gen metro 2-dr & a late-model 6-spd trans-axle... Just to keep the revs in the sweet-spot. And a water-air inter-cooler filled with Evan's NPG, to keep the charge as cool as possible after coming-off of a compound-turbo setup.
Do I dream big (Yet realistically) or what?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
To whom ever was worried about the yanmar being at wot all the time. This type of engine usually is operated at two speeds....idle and wot . Common applications for these are in refer units on semi trailers or even a two cylinder yanmar that is used in auxillary power units for semi trucks. Diesel engines are a low rev high torque and high compression engine. Cyllinder cumbustion temps can get around 1800° f which brings the need for a pyrometer. If my suspension, let a lone my engine bay would allow I would love a lil four cylinder cummins. Wonder how an air deutsche would fit in a cavy.....hmmm
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I don't see that as the case. I can't believe it would run balls out at all times. Typically on something like a generator it's pretty much matched so that your engine is at it's point of highest efficiency vs. highest efficiency for the generator. Typically this is not at WOT. That and you need a little extra in there to compensate for times where an additional load is thrown on quickly (like having a welder hooked to a generator, then using it), where you'd need to compensate some for the additional load. At either rate, it would be pointless to wind the motor out all the time if you could make it possible to change a gear and take advantage of the additional torque available at a lower RPM and reduce fuel consumption. I was more or less worried about it not turning enough RPM to hold highway speed, rather than tearing up the engine.
I still like the idea, and cannot wait til there are updates posted.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
