Can I regrind the stock cams into more aggressive cams like whats offered from JBP or other places? This is for an LD9.
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Yes but if too much is ground off the base circle then lash caps are needed. Some one on here a while ago got some 95 2.3 cams reground to specs somewhere between HO and W41 cams if Ii remember correctly. He did use lash caps though.
yes... go to colt cams directly to knock about $200 off the LZM and JBP price. its who they use.
or delta cams... they are very nicely priced. i believe its $75 a piece. too good of a deal.
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
Delta cams is cheap and the quality is good with the finished product but they seem to be limited. The best grind they could give me for and HO cam was 215 at 50 duration and .439 lift. They acted like they could have gotten more out of a smaller cam but they said 410 lift was almost max lift for what they could do then a jump to the grind i got. It was only 75 dollars for the work on one cam plus shipping both ways.
I am thinking about doing the HO cam swap, but theres a lot of cost involved with that. Someone suggested I just regrind my cams. So I figured I could just do the JBP spec, is there stage 2 cams to much for a stock computer? Also, all I have is exhaust from the downpipe back, and HO mani plus intake.
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any cam above secret cams is too much for the stock computer, HO cams will lean out way too much without a tune, and honestly even with the secret cams without a tune you wont feel much.
Zs Z wrote:any cam above secret cams is too much for the stock computer, HO cams will lean out way too much without a tune, and honestly even with the secret cams without a tune you wont feel much.
I am not talking so much about tuning, but more so about codes and such. From what I remember a few years ago some of the JBP cams werent ECU friendly. I was thinking of a middle of the road grind between the SCS and the HO swap.
Stock LD9 Cams
198 degrees @ .050" with .354" lift for the intake
187 degrees @ .050" with .346" lift for the exhuast
Secret Cams
200 degrees @ .050" with .360" lift for the intake
200 degrees @ .050" with .375" lift for the exhaust
JBP Stage 1
200 degrees @ .050" with 375" lift for the intake
208 degrees @ .050" with 375" lift for the exhaust
JBP Stage 2
260 degrees @ .050" with .377" lift for the intake
268 degrees @ .050" with .375" lift for the exhaust
Genertec XX5 Specs ( LD9 )
211 degrees @ .050” with .360” lift for the intake
212 degrees @ .050” with .360” lift for the exhaust
RaceTech ( LD9 )
216 degrees @ .050” with .380” lift for the intake
206 degrees @ .050” with .365” lift for the exhaust
HO Cams (Require much modification)
212 degrees @ .050" with .410" lift for the intake
212 degrees @ .050" with .410" lift for the exhaust
If I wanted a happy medium what would you suggest between that range of cams?
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you can find secret cams for cheap and have those reground to ho cam specs. but if you do that you might as well by ho cams new from northern autoparts for about 75 a piece can have those regrund to hg2 specs for about the same price or cheaper then buying hg2's. and it was me who reground the secret cams.
brodycog wrote:you can find secret cams for cheap and have those reground to ho cam specs. but if you do that you might as well by ho cams new from northern autoparts for about 75 a piece can have those regrund to hg2 specs for about the same price or cheaper then buying hg2's. and it was me who reground the secret cams.
I dont want to grind HO cams or LD2 cams. I want to grind my stock cams instead of going with an HO cam swap. So my question is, whats a "safe" grind to put on them so I can send them out, and put them right in the engine when i get them back. No lash caps, no nothing, just put them in and go. (except for a future tune, but not at the same time).
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dont know never ground stock cams. i wouldnt waste my money on such small cams. secret cams are a direct drop in. that would probably be cheaper then grinding stock cams. and youd probably have about the same size cam. id say your benefits of regrinding stock cams would be minimal. you can buy my reground cams and save some time. just get some .05 or .06 lash caps. they werea nice improvement and gave it a nice mean lope. $450 about the same price as regrinding a new set.
and since your dropping the cams in a stock engine keep in mind the more duration you have the more rpms you need to rev to see the cams potential. stock springs will not keep up with rpms much over what the stock rev limiter is set at. i would definatly upgrade your springs if your considering upgrading your cams. on a loweer rpm engin you want more lift. but not so much that the springs will bind. i would definantly do some reading on cams and how differrent variations affect your power band at different rpm levels. and if you do decide that you want somthing in the upper rpms keeep in mind also that the stock ld9 oil pump dont like high rpms. # 4 and #3 rod journals and bearings have oiling issues. so read figure out what you want out of your engine and go from there. good luck
brodycog wrote:dont know never ground stock cams. i wouldnt waste my money on such small cams. secret cams are a direct drop in. that would probably be cheaper then grinding stock cams. and youd probably have about the same size cam. id say your benefits of regrinding stock cams would be minimal. you can buy my reground cams and save some time. just get some .05 or .06 lash caps. they werea nice improvement and gave it a nice mean lope. $450 about the same price as regrinding a new set.
I got a price of $250 to grind my stock cams. I am thinking about just using the values from JBP Stage 1 cams.
I am replacing my head b/c its cracked, so within the next week my car is going to have stock cams or reground cams.
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what did everyone decide on this topic??? i dont like the idea of upgrading with used parts, unless it came from an engine shop. but what is the best option for a cam above secret cam. something closer to HO w41. does crane or comp cams or a legit company make some for the ld9?
There is a company that can do tons of change on cams without changing the base circle because they actually add material onto the cam lobe. Forget who it is.
Though, if you get cams without a tune, you might as well just give me the money and keep the stock cams. It'll make someone happy and either way you wont get any gain in power.
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just wanted to add this if it already hasnt been mentioned.... with regrinds...some places will sometimes actually weld on more material before grinding....
so there shouldnt be a worry of grinding off too much, as long as you stick with a quality company...
Indeed, do you remember the names of any of these companies art?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, September 16, 2011 6:29 AM
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, September 16, 2011 10:12 AM
Funky Bottoms (Event) wrote:just wanted to add this if it already hasnt been mentioned.... with regrinds...some places will sometimes actually weld on more material before grinding....
so there shouldnt be a worry of grinding off too much, as long as you stick with a quality company...
Yep, a few actually add material before they machine, so it doesn't affect the base circle.
ART where the hell have you been!
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anyone think of the name of the name of these companies yet? and yes i agree, and would plan on a "tune" to accomodate the cams.
wow check a cam thread and see mr funky bottoms... woow
i would say work on the tuning side first as the cams and oiling system will take longer to machine.