I'm looking to have an AEM cold air intake, a custom catback exhaust (2.5 in piping), and pacesetter headers put on to my 2005 pontiac sunfire (it's in fantastic running condition, just need rims and brake >.<
but anyway, will I have a noticeably faster and louder car (without the ricer sound)? My boss (he drives a very nicely done 335i, spoiled jerk...) seems to be under the impression it'll feel and run exactly the same and sound like a ricer, but I'm asking the experts on this one.
First, don't waste your money on a brand name intake. Unless you're planning on showing your car, it won't make a difference and no one with a valid opinion will give a rat's ass. Buy the cheapest one off eBay and call it done. Second, yes, you will see a difference. I/H/E will make a noticeable gain on your car, but please remember to use a real muffler on your exhaust system. Otherwise it will sound like a ricer.
2010 Honda Fit LX
Well I noticed theres a ram air intake from chromeintakes for sale at only 20 bucks (10 dollars shipping) but I don't have hood scoops on my car or anything. Call me dumb, but will this seriously impact the performance of buying a ram air intake as opposed to a CAI?
From what I understand a ram air doesn't go all the way into the fender as say a CAI would. But with a RAI you don't have to worry about water, etc..having the chance of getting into it as much. You should be just fine getting a ram intake without a "ram style" hood though.
Matthew Stejskal wrote:Well I noticed theres a ram air intake from chromeintakes for sale at only 20 bucks (10 dollars shipping) but I don't have hood scoops on my car or anything. Call me dumb, but will this seriously impact the performance of buying a ram air intake as opposed to a CAI?
A ram air intake is just a shorter pipe compared to a CAI in our application. Unless you're driving through a flood, you shouldn't worry about water being sucked up by a filter in the fender. I actually just went from a RAI to a CAI and the only real difference is the look, which I prefer a shiny pipe compared to a shiny pipe with a gaudy filter on the end in plain view. Be sure to get a K&N filter instead of using the crappy eBay filter too
Also, if you want the best possible performance gain from the I/H/E, make sure you get the car tuned. They like to run rich after those mods.
The sound is going to totally rely on the exhaust components. Straight pipe with a fart can on the end will sound like @!#$, no matter what anyone tells you. Get a nice free flow chambered muffler and a nice long resonator and it will sound much better.
BTW, its header, not headers........ How many people must we correct this on.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Whoops, sorry. I'll never make it plural again lol but thanks for the feedback guys and I'll be sure to let the guy doing my custom exhaust know so I get what I want! unless someone has a cheaper exhaust system for sale... =D
DSMskyline wrote:Also, if you want the best possible performance gain from the I/H/E, make sure you get the car tuned. They like to run rich after those mods.
The sound is going to totally rely on the exhaust components. Straight pipe with a fart can on the end will sound like @!#$, no matter what anyone tells you. Get a nice free flow chambered muffler and a nice long resonator and it will sound much better.
BTW, its header, not headers........ How many people must we correct this on.
Completely agree, get a tune done even if you don't have any major. Your car won't explode but it will do nothing but benefit you.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
It seems everyone here is confusing RAI with WAI, which are not one-in-the-same...
A RAI is very-much like a CAI, with the difference being that it feeds via an opening facing into the headwind the vehicle sees as it drives down the road. This allows the the collection of of mass-amounts of outside air for the engine to breathe at it's leisure. The two best locations for this opening are:
1) In the front-fascia.
2) A hood-scoop, with it's opening set well above the surface of the hood to prevent the turbulence of "boundary-layer" air from hindering the total amount possible airflow in.
BTW: If you've ever seen a Pro-Stock drag-race car, you know exactly the design of scoop I'm speaking of.
And since the rate of airflow into either one of these designs is high enough to induce a ram-effect (Much has been written here on it) it's typically referred to here as a FAI (Fresh-Air Intake). And you can build one that performs far-better than any prefab piece you might find anywhere-for a lot less money-if you just go about it intelligently. (NO SHARP BENDS!)
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
could build it yourself, i drive an S-10 so it may not be the same. but i took the messurments and i need 2 3/4 inch ID Pipe, then i would run the pipe to my stock airbox from the intake. cut the top of the air box out and and the side facing the grille BAM! heat sheild for your cone filter. thats what i plan to do soon anyway. got some other priotys at the mo'
Here's my 2 cents:
I've experimented with RAIs and CAIs - I would go with RAI. Why? because I've noticed a difference in throttle response using the RAI's - they seem to be a little more responsive. If you're not running forced induction, I don'tsee the point of spending that extra money. I would buy that $20 piping, and get a K&N cone filter in the end. They're good filters that never require replacement. Only cleaning once or twice a year with their special cleaner and oil.
As for the exhaust, I would go 2.25 instead of 2.5. Less back pressure loss since you're not running Forced Induction. Plus it'll be cheaper and have a better fit.The sound will depend on what muffler you use. I use a magnaflow dual tip which is relatvely loud bt sounds pretty good by my standards. You'll have to do some research on it. One way to lower the vlume though, is to geta resonator in your midpipe section.
I would highly recommend going to overkill performance engineering and taking a look. They seem to have some pretty good deals on exhaust systems - all mendrel bent, your choice of aluminized or stainless, with options to have mufflers, resonators and even catalytic cnvertors pre installed before delivery.
A exhaust sound does not make one a ricer. A car is not a ricer, but the person who owns it or drives it could be a ricer, and not based on the souond of the exhaust.
FU Tuning
So much misinformation in this thread lol
and to answer your question, no you will not have a noticeably faster car. You will have a louder car, and your but dyno will think its faster. Its going to take more than an intake and exhaust to make it noticable. I have put thousands into my car, and its only 2 seconds faster in the 1/4 mile than it was stock.
For your exhaust, go with 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust, don't get crush bent. Back pressure is also just a myth, ignore anyone who even tries to convince you otherwise.
Use a good muffler and resonator and it will sound great, and your exhaust flow wont be slowed down by cheap parts. This would be your best choice. Pacesetter armor coated header, Magnaflow 91036 2.5" catalytic converter, Magnaflow 10346 2.5" resonator, Custom Tubes 2.5" mandrel bent catback, Dynomax Super Turbo 2.5" Muffler.
As for your intake, yes spend the money and get the nice intake (this is my opinion). The cheaper ones just look like crap, and if you want your engine bay to look good, you don't want a $5 pipe laying in there. Look at the pics below, I have had the cheap ones and the expensive ones. They do the exact same thing, I just prefer a cleaner look.
Cheap intake
AEM Cold Air Intake
you know the guy with a stock "looking" cavy, that just smoked a civic in a quarter mile = TUNER
you know the fast "looking" civic that just lost to tht "stock" cavy = RICER
