Went around to my local muffler shops today, they wont even replace the exhaust on my car unless the cat/muffler/res comes from them, but luckily I have a welding certificate and a arc welder, and I believe with the proper online instructions I can get this exhaust put together.
Currently working on Pacesetter ceramic coated header (buy on this is pending- may go with something else if a deal finds its way
) a 2.25 magnaflow cat, muffler, and resonater.
I need the tubing, mandrel bent and thats nearly impossible for me to find without DRIVING some distance. Does anyone know where to get ahold of some used perhaps, or a store that can hook me up and not rape me?
Buy the one from mandrel exhaust. I've already priced it out and if you buy it with a muffler its basically the same price as buying all the bends yourself and welding it yourself.
And a stick welder is not going to work too well to weld exhaust.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Should you go with aluminum or stainless steel?
Does anyone else feel that 120+ and shipping fees is a tad high for 3 pieces of steel?
Yeah that's high but everyone charges @!#$ that. View long are you going to own your car? Greater than 3 years? I'd go stainless, else aluminumized steel is fine. Hell the stock aluminumized steel on my car is 8 years old and still fine.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I went to the muffler shop out of town today, no mandrel bending there either.
Dude told me he could put my cat, muffler, tip on my car with tubing for 80 dollars, problem is its not mandrel bent, he said its not that big of a difference?
If its compression bent its not that big of a difference. If its crushed I'd skip it for sure. Crushed has ripples, compression is smooth but the diameter still decreases.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Yeah that's high but everyone charges @!#$ that. View long are you going to own your car? Greater than 3 years? I'd go stainless, else aluminumized steel is fine. Hell the stock aluminumized steel on my car is 8 years old and still fine.
he meant ALUMINUM. not 'aluminized'.
and yes, its great. saves a ton of weight so if you can weld it up or know someone that can id say for for it.
aluminum exhaust? Jesus. It'll fatigue and break in a street car. Your choices for exhaust tubing are. Stainless, aluminized steel, mild steel, or Titanium if you're a crazy mofo.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
how will it fatigue and break? our cylinder heads are made out of aluminum for crist sakes.... plenty of people run aluminum exhausts. its real popular with honda and evo guys....
hell, check out brandon fetter's build... he has a full aluminum system.
Heat cycling along with the vibration on the thin walled tube will do it. Or if its thick enough to not it may or may not be any lighter. I couldnt tell without seeing some data or running some numbers in the computer.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
dont really need a computer to tell me what hundreds of professional builders do on a daily basis without issue.
if an aluminum exhaust is good enough for a 1000whp evo or otherwise its good enough for me.
edit... i will say though that its overkill. when you are so anal about weight savings that you want to run aluminum for your exhaust then you need a support group. oh wait...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, June 29, 2011 7:48 PM
Gasoline engines run hot. We are talking EGT's in the 1300F+ range. 6061 aluminum has a melting point of only 1090F. I can't say for all builds, but in general, straight aluminum exhausts are often mated to some down pipe or section of steel tubing. The reason for that is because it gives the exhaust gasses time to cool before it gets to the aluminum section. It's for this reason that you won't see an aluminum header (perhaps one with some exotic material that contains Al in it though).
I have no signiture
I did some research and they do do it. You will only find aluminum headers in boats that run their cooling water out the exhaust.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
If you have a way to cool the pipes then yes, an aluminum header is feasible. However, on a conventional automobile, that's not the case.
I have no signiture
lol i never said anything about an aluminum header.
however i find it hard to believe the aluminum piping will melt as an exhaust system when the cylinder head itself is aluminum and does not melt...
same goes for pistons.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, June 30, 2011 8:23 AM
im going to be running aluminum exhaust when i put the motor and turbo on the car
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Just put on a 2.5 SS exhaust from Mandrel last month. Total shipped $390. Got some extra tubing for cat delete $ 40. $430 plus installation.......$600. Would have saved $ 120 for aluminum but... SS is the only way I go
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:lol i never said anything about an aluminum header.
however i find it hard to believe the aluminum piping will melt as an exhaust system when the cylinder head itself is aluminum and does not melt...
same goes for pistons.
Your head is water cooled... I'm going to take a wild guess that these engines don't take too kindly to running without coolant
I have no signiture
The other thing to consider is that you want to keep all the heat in your exhaust to make it move faster. The aluminum pipe will transfer heat out of the exhaust and into the outside air much faster than steel.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Whalesac wrote:-Z Yaaaa- wrote:lol i never said anything about an aluminum header.
however i find it hard to believe the aluminum piping will melt as an exhaust system when the cylinder head itself is aluminum and does not melt...
same goes for pistons.
Your head is water cooled... I'm going to take a wild guess that these engines don't take too kindly to running without coolant
LOL brian sure... but the cylinder temps still reach well over what the aluminum exhaust piping would so claimed melt at and the surface temps of the cumbustion chamber/valves/crowns of pistons has gotta be over it too.
the fact still remains that plenty of performance shops use aluminum in their top notch builds.
but no use beating a dead horse to death here, everybody just choose what you prefer, its nothing more than perference really.
me, I have one Mandrel U-bend with your name on it.
