Ok so Im still new to eco modding so bear with me, did some searching but theres a few topics I need covered. Im doing a mild turbo setup on my l61 and heres my plans for fueling to start

03+ rail tapped for 8an fittings back to firewall lines, gm quick connect-8an adapters for hardlines
lsj injectors
begi fmu

Ok so a few questions I have:

1. I remember seeing the part numbers for the gm hardline adapters but cant find them again, also do they make them for 8an or is it only 6an?
2. I read that the lsj injectors only drop in with the 02 rail, but I wana use the 03 for cleaner look and easier tapping for npt threads, Whats needed to use lsj injectors with the newer rail do I need spacers or can I slot the rail bolt holes or something. On an ld9 rail you can just slot the bolt holes to sit lower
3. The stock inj harness works with lsj injectors right or do I need a separate harness/splice in connectors?
4.Ive seen quite a few people tap the 03+ rail, do I used a 3/8npt tap or is that too small for the fpr hole? The side I could drill out for either but would rather both do 1/2npt if possible.

The fmu Ill be running adjusts base pressure so I can bypass the stock fpr, I know this isnt the best way but will work until I do hpt tuning and adjust the inj constant but by that time I should have larger injectors, just using lsj's as a base to start with up to around 220whp. So how does this fuel setup sound? I know the 8an lines wont help much without going all the way back to the tank, but clean up the engine bay and will make fmu connections easier. Any comments/advise is appreciated, cant wait to be back in boost! specialy since I didnt turbo my ld9 til about 80k+ miles and my l61 swap is only at 50k.

The hardlines adapters I think just come in 6AN...I'm looking at the LT1 adapter from Summit, they have 6am to 3/8" and 5/16" hardlines quick connects

I found out that tapping the rail has a high possibility of leaking.... So this time nuts were welded in and AN fittings fit to it... WAY better in my opinion and looks WAY better too.

Ive seen quite a few people using tapped rails including some amazing builds(pj for example), dont think it could be that much of a problem. Hope I can find the adapters in 8an, just ordered a bunch of 8an ss line/fittings :/

I would skip the fmu, either run the stock fuel pressure or run the LT1 regulator in the 03-05 fuel rail.

Why do you need a -8an return line, are you using a -10an feedline all the way from the tank?



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I'm just saying the tapped rails leak and don't look nearly as clean as welding or a billet rail. Plus you can cut the end with the rolled lip off and smooth the whole rail out.

Yea I understand what you mean Vince, Im trying to get arrival's fuel rail which is already modded since hes parting. I just hate to ruin such a beautiful polished piece but Id have to paint it cause polished wouldnt look right with the paint scheme in my bay.

Well I have to run an fmu to get some sort of boost fueling so a 1:1 regulator would be worthless, wont have hpt right away. Is there some sort of rule of thumb that the return must be smaller than the feed, I dont see how running both 8an would cause an issue theyre only going to the firewall not all the way to the tank. Would just make it simpler as I have alot of 8an ss hose/fittings as my pcv setup will all be 8an as well. Just need the rail and adapter fittings which I found last night. For the return I only found in 6an but a female adapter would be easy to convert to 8an

No you dont have to follow that rule, my lines for my regulator are -6 an on both sides because I dont want to get much more than 400 hp out of the car (eventually, even though the lines will support more), and because thats the size the lines between the tank and the engine bay are anyways.

Just @!#$ wait a second and get hp tuners and do it right the first time. Why pay 250 bucks for an FMU when the stock one will be fine with HPT (which is only 500 bucks).


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Even if I went hpt Id still use an fmu as a crutch anyways as do alot of people, and the good begi units can be had for way less than $250. Plus look at the hahn kits that use a @!#$ty inline pump and fmu.Im not too familiar with eco tuning yet and its not as simple as my ld9 where I just flashed it and modded the tune from there since the eco flash is locked. I also dont have a 2bar tmap with my ld9 I used my plug and play 2bar from my first m45 setup. Yes I know hpt is the better way to go, but plenty of people run mild setups plus I want larger injectors before I do an actual hpt tune.

Wait that car is already an LD9 right? Why not run the eco off the ld9 harness and pcm?


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Na used to be an ld9, everything eco now including even the whole bcm harness

Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:I would skip the fmu, either run the stock fuel pressure or run the LT1 regulator in the 03-05 fuel rail.

Why do you need a -8an return line, are you using a -10an feedline all the way from the tank?

Do you happen to know specs on the LT1 regulators (in comparison to our stocker)? I was looking them up today but didn't find much as far as actual specs. I'm considering one since everyone seems to have them for the same price as our stocker (for oem replacement anyway)

EVILution (KGM Godfather) wrote:

Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:I would skip the fmu, either run the stock fuel pressure or run the LT1 regulator in the 03-05 fuel rail.

Why do you need a -8an return line, are you using a -10an feedline all the way from the tank?

Do you happen to know specs on the LT1 regulators (in comparison to our stocker)? I was looking them up today but didn't find much as far as actual specs. I'm considering one since everyone seems to have them for the same price as our stocker (for oem replacement anyway)

Yeah the aeromotive one is adjustable in the range you'd need for anything you're doing and is 1:1, I cant speak for any other one.


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So what about using lsj injectors in an 02 rail? Do I need spacers or can I mod the bolt holes or what?

Mine went right in. But mine were the 60 pounds designed to fit the LSJ, but i assume the stock LSJ ones will fit.


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Wow sorry meant to say 03+ rail, I know they drop right in the 02 rail which I have but want to modify the newer rail. Looks much cleaner and easier to run an fuel lines.

A thought I always had, why dont more people run the gm upgrade injectors? They replace lsj's on deltas soo pretty much dropin for us too and 42s/60s go dirt cheap on cobalt forums

there are people who use a spacer made from washers to use the 03+ rail with the LSJ injectors, I don't like the idea myself.

Any more info on this Cinny? Also got an le5 intake mani soo may want to get these lsj injectors in sooner and use a 1:1 afpr to idle them down, is the lt1 aeromotive pretty much the most popular regulator people use? Believe me Im not an idiot I know I cant expect good results with just dropping in bigger injectors and not tuning for them but Im just curious to see what the afr's look like, as Ive heard the le5 mani runs a little lean on the stock tune.

Just got the gm quick connect adapters for the lines back at the firewall, decided to just go with both 6an. Plus I got both feed/return adapter fittings new for $7 each, damn I love ebay

You'll hate the LE5 manifold without tuning. It need a lot of spark advance to be added in the lower RPM's to have the car not feel like a honda.


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Not to take your post off topic, but how do you intend to address spark advance w/o HPT? Your set up for fueling sounds like it will work ok until you get HPT or find someone to tune it, but you won't be able to log knock retard or change advance, which is a recipe for disaster even at your relatively low power goal. Stock tuned ecotecs advance 16 (LO)-20 (HO)* in the 105kpa column, which may or may not be ok with your turbo set up.

Cliffnotes, i would at least find someone to log a couple pulls for you after your set up just so you know where it's at. You shouldn't have to pay someone a lot if anything to log for you since it's free for them.

I may have hpt figured out sooner than expected, but for such a mild setup Im not worried anout even touching spark tables/knock. Honestly Im more interested to see how the eco compares to my my old ld9 which I put through hell and back and even before tuning only saw phantom knock. Ill be using colder plugs, external coils and a dis2 soo atleast shouldnt see any spark blowout. Im just new to the eco and wana basicaly do some trial/error stuff to see how it compares to my ld9 even if it puts it at risk. I could also manualy desensitize the knock sensor.

Im worried about idc though only using lsj's, they were over 80% on my modded m45 setup(even without nitrous) which made less power than what I plan to expect out of this setup.

Quote:


I could also manualy desensitize the knock sensor

Why?

The Eco does not get ghost knock like a LD9. I agree you should be worried about timing retarding.



FU Tuning

Well thats good to know, hell I saw alot just from my dp rubbing on the subframe slightly. The dis2 is capable of timing retard and will help with spark to an extent.

The thought has crossed my mind about finding a sc flashed pcm or getting a spare to flash and use the fmu with it..Ive seen about people using the tmap, but with the eco does it have to be year/trans specific? Ive seen quite a few people selling flashed eco pcm's to tune another, cant just be simple and modify the flash like the ld9

icemike89 wrote:Well thats good to know, hell I saw alot just from my dp rubbing on the subframe slightly. The dis2 is capable of timing retard and will help with spark to an extent.

The thought has crossed my mind about finding a sc flashed pcm or getting a spare to flash and use the fmu with it..Ive seen about people using the tmap, but with the eco does it have to be year/trans specific? Ive seen quite a few people selling flashed eco pcm's to tune another, cant just be simple and modify the flash like the ld9

You could run a LD9 harness and reflash which is what I would do.

LD9 is bad with ghost knock.



FU Tuning

If I hadnt gotten rid of my tuned ld9 pcm and gmsc map I may have, plus my old ld9 harness is all hacked up so Id have to source another one which I dont realy wana go through all the trouble.

Yea I saw alot of phantom knock while turbo, even with my idle set to 1k lower rpm driving from a stop was pretty rough. Alot of this was from the few ttr upper mounts I had that failed on me, the bushing would push out and the metal would rub together. Why I never got an lzm solid lower mount, the solid upper wasnt soo bad but was one of the first batch with had problems with the top plate bending slightly so I replaced the solid bushings with poly endlinks.