Im planning on going all out with my build i want to get into the ten's. So my question in do you think that i could run 10.5-1 comp with runing 25psi of boost?
With proper tuning, turbo, and supporting mods, yes.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
supporting mods like what? Oversized intercooler wet shot.... Any input is welcome
Well im gonna start out by saying you should REALLY fill out your member registry.
I'm gonna go with the stereotype and guess that youre just an 18 year old kid who thinks he can throw a turbo on and go supppperrrr fasttttt
10's youre looking at a complete motor build: rods, pistons, valvetrain, cams, completely upgrade your fuel system, a quality turbo system, and a great tune plus all kinds of odds and ends not to even mention suspension/lsd/ect to get that power to ground.
You'd better be planning on spending a ton of money if you want a good set up
Cheap, reliable, fast. Choose two of the three
Eat my shift
Tyler Thom wrote:Im planning on going all out with my build i want to get into the ten's. So my question in do you think that i could run 10.5-1 comp with runing 25psi of boost?
your probably going to have to spend 10-20k to get into the 10s
Probably closer to $15-20K.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:Why not go with 12:1 compression.
Alberta doesn't sell any higher than 94 at the pump and we are like 3000ft. above sea level..........highly retarded timing (12*/13*), and a hope for a god?
To the O.P. - To do it right, it will cost alot.
When I built my engine, I thought it would be cheap, and easy. But it's not necessarily the "pistons" and "rods" that hurt the wallet, it's all the other maintenance and supporting mods that do. There's a whole crap load of stuff that are easily forgotten when you get into it....
You're going to need an LSD for 10's....that's almost 2 grand.
You're going to need a good suspension setup and a few different mounts...(engine and tranny).....another 1500
Maintenance parts on the engine when you rebuild? Timing Kit (Upper and Lower), Valve seals, Clutch, Bearings, Studs, Gaskets (All of em), etc., etc.,
Check out my profile for an example. Everything that's in the car right now, put me at about 12k.
With the stuff that's listed in my "Future" , I will probably be at 15k-17k in total.
Not trying to discourage you, but I hope you have a good job.
Maybe set a goal for 225-250ish hp. It's a good sized increase over stock and you might be quite happy at that power level.
So i'm not trying to sound like a dick here but this isnt my first build and i have $25k set aside for this build. I'm going to start the build first snow fall and would like to have all the parts by then. So what is my best bet on trying to get into 10's? high comp and mild boost or lower comp and high boost. Any input or parts that you have or know of that would be good for my set up that would be great. I know it will cost a fair bit but it is something im going to do no matter what. Thanks for all the help. Oh BTW the car is pretty much stock right now just a few bolt ons and is not a daily driver
Low comp high boost is it for making "big power" in the 600-800 hp range. More than that and you'll be looking at running High comp and high boost and a high methonol % gasoline.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
What fuel?
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
94 oct. pump gas with oct booster at most no race fuel
octane booster is a gimmick, so don't base the build on that helping at all. You want an ocatane booster? Run copious amounts of methanol.
You're simply not going to be able to run the same amout of boost on 10.5:1 as you would a point or point and a half lower, and your output will be limited by the fuel you are using. That's the rules as physics made them. And at this point, we are just talking about what the powerplant will do, let alone what you are capable of doing with it at the track. Throwing 25k into a car doesn't promise any particular ET, nor does the number on the dyno.
Have you picked a turbocharger? Have you decided on things like displacement, bottom end, cams, head work, rev range/powerband? How about the turbo manifold design? Intake manifold design?
My two cents - high comp/low boost makes an amazing street car. If you want a peak power track car, but are restricting yourself to pump gas, keep it 9.5:1 or below.
It will cost you so much. Unless your a true enthuiest, and love grease and grime, I would stop right now.
This kind of build will take years.
Most people get bored, life gets in the way, and they sell off the build half way through.
My car took 5 years and its still not done.
Between work, school, other hobbies, and life, project cars take a lot of time and devotion to make them a complete success.
Good luck, but take it from this ORG, people have come and gone in this scene, and some have stayed to play.
BTW, what motor is it?
My 2200 has over 10K in it, and I dont think I will hit 10's, maybe low 12's high 11's if anything.
Not to sound like a dick, but honestly if you are having to ask how to make a cavalier run 10s, you will never do it unless you have a shop do the work.
I also highly doubt you can run 10s on 94 octane pump gas.
Another big factor is you, the driver. That is where a lot of work will need to go. Driving a car that fast is not an easy task. Your not going to just jump in and run 10s.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
If I had $25,000 to put into a car I would buy a better platform. Maybe RWD. Heck a guy down the road is selling a 540whp eclipse for $14,000.
Matthew Jollymore wrote:If I had $25,000 to put into a car I would buy a better platform. Maybe RWD.
Ah-greed! The only guys running quicker than mid-12's with FWD are dedicated
full-race machines... The kind of cars that are built in a way that can just forget about seeing street-duty, let-alone daily-driving. Not to mention the "red-flag" they'll get in a emissions test. If you really want to go fast, and you're smart, you'll put that money into a LS-powered 4th-gen F-body (Camaro, Firebird/Trans-Am). But if you're
smart, and you want to have something that'll blow everything else away... Put that money up as tuition at a good, nationally-recognized college that's serious about education over sports or partying (
Not Phoenix University or the like) and get a bachelor's degree--maybe even a master's degree--in a field that pays a lot & has very few applicants, build your wealth & then buy something brand-new (made overseas perhaps) that will cost & be worth more, even a few years down the road, than ten copies of each of the hottest FWD street-machines around you. Just be sure to get a nice house with a garage to yourself to go with it, because no girl that digs such a car is ever gonna get with you if that's all you have & you still live with your ancestors (Parental guardians) or room with someone.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
