Purchased a 96 cavalier 2.2/five speed about a year ago and the engine decided to give up on me. Not sure of the extent of the damage yet, but it's bad enough to be spewing oil and makes a lot of noise when running. Only started it for a second or two since the time it blew. I also have a 2.2 out of a 95 Beretta along with the brand new transmission that is in the Beretta, so the transmission will go in the cavalier and the 2.2s will be combined to make one good one. Apparently the LN2 out of the Beretta was rebuilt in the last few years, but not sure on the extent. The car had a spun main, so I know at least something was done to get it running right again. Oh, and the Beretta currently has a blown headgasket.

So as far as the build goes, I don't want to spend a lot of extra money to get high performance. I just want to find economical upgrades and parts. So if it cost about the same to get a better combo, then that's what I'll do.

One engine is at 150,000 and the other at 190,000, so I should probably replace valves and springs along with possibly the cam? Will I need to have machining done if I replace bearings?

I'm going to pull the head on the cavalier as soon as I get a chance. If I'm lucky enough for it to be just a headgasket, then I may not do a rebuild. I just want to be ready for anything. Who knows, maybe I'll still rebuild the Beretta engine for future use in the Cav.

one problem the 95 doesn't have the cam sensor so you will get a check engine light on constantly and you could check out importperformancepartsor mantaparts thats where i got my valves from and cam and yes you will have to get machining done if you replace the bearings but i would recommend it, theres no point in doing something half if your going to replace the valves and cam might as well get the new bearings for it


Erik Packard

Looks like I'll scrap the idea of the 95 engine then. Unless it is possible to add the cam sensor?

I'll probably try to start pulling the engine/trans from that cav today after work. I may just try to pull the head before the whole engine, but we'll see what I decide when I actually get working on it. I just hope the block is still good.

I can get a lower end rebuild kit for rockauto for right around 400. IIRC, it comes with pistons, rings, cam bearings, main bearings, connecting rod bearings and a gasket kit. Seems like basically everything I will need. Anyone know the kind of quality it might be?

Also, the importperformanceparts website does not work. Anyone else having trouble with it? Just brings me to a search page and that's it.

importperformanceparts.net is working fine of me the link is on my name page if you would like to check it out


Erik Packard

stay away from mantapart unless you want to wait months to maybe get your parts

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=420693&t=420693#420693



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, March 27, 2010 4:09 AM

Hmm mantapart sent out my parts in a week and 3 days maybe it just depends on what you order


Erik Packard

No. It's widely known that mantapart is no good to deal with.

I've been a part of a Beretta forum for years now, so I know all about the suck that is, Mantapart.

Finished removing the head yesterday.

This is the position of the pistons.

Cyl. 1 - TDC
Cyl. 2 -inch below TDC
Cyl. 3 - inch below TDC
Cyl. 4 - close to BDC

Considering they are in such an interesting arrangement, I go to cyl one and push on the piston. It fairly easily slides down the cylinder, and I narrow my search for the problem down considerably. I pushed the piston down as far as I could and there were no flaws in the bore walls. Now I just have to pull the whole engine and find out exactly what caused the piston to become free and discover what kind of collateral damage exists. I've already searched as best I can for cracks in the block or holes in the oil pan, but I am unable to see anything. I just know that oil did get on the ground; and I'm hoping it's not via a hole in the side of the block.

So, I have the possibility of needing a new block, and probably a new connecting rod. To save money, I will use the connecting rods out of the 95 engine. I'll find a place that will check them for me and then use the best of the bunch. So to finish it off, I'll be getting the rebuild kit from IPP. Probably without the cam. I've decided to do just a basic rebuild and possibly port the head and intake while I'm at it. It looks there is a lot that can be done in those aspects. Is there an intake manifold swap from a newer LN2 that has increased intake runner size?

Engine will probably be completely removed tomorrow, along with the transmission. Then next weekend will be removal of the engine and transmission from the Beretta. Weather permitting.

2200 pistons+2.2 engine=A little less weak

Doesn't that bump up the compression somewhere close to 11:1? I wont be able to do any sort of tuning, so that may not be a good idea? They are designed better though, aren't they? I guess I'll have to look into that a little more.

Did you get anywhere with this Jason?


1996 Sunfire, 2.2L, 18" Equus/General Exclaim UHP
Alpine CDE-9845

There are no "Better" intake manifolds readily available for the LN2.

If you run premium (High-octane "pump") gasoline, the engine's management (Knock-sensor, electronic spark-timing control) should be able to compensate... Minimally.

And finally... When you have the block at the shop for cleaning, have them blow-out the oil galleys fully. I stress this as I've replaced a crank on an LN2 just after getting the truck it was in (Yes! They put it in trucks too!) only to find that the oiling-system had fed the fragments of the factory-original timing-chain set... that was left laying in the sump of the oil-pan (I could hurt the hammer-wrench that worked on it before me....)... to the lifters & cam-bearings, followed by the main- & rod-bearings. (That's how the oiling priority goes on the LN2) Hence the need for crank replacement. After it was all done, I learned of the oiling priority... and that no-matter what I tried, the contaminated lifters wouldn't stop ticking. At least until they totally collapsed (40k-mi later) forcing me get the short-block replaced.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

You might want to give these guys a try, since they're one of the few willing to make any:

Click on General Motors, then intake manifolds


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Project was held up for a while. Getting into full swing again though. Anyone run the 2200 pistons without any tuning? How did it run? Still up in the air if I want to swap them in, guess it depends on what I need to do to the Beretta engine I'm putting in. Have another thread with pics for whoever is interested... http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=30&i=54916&t=54804#54916