I know there are people on here that run them. Its the last major component I need to order for my build.

I used both on my old Talon and didn't have problems with either.

I have read people having problems with the Cometic gasket but not sure if it is the gasket or the user.

I know that with either, I will need to retorque after a heat cycle. Yeah for 3 hours of fun!

What are everyones thoughts? I did a search and found older threads from people saying Im going to be using this or that. I want to know how they have held up.

Plan is to run between 10-20psi on a T04E 57 trim.

Compression will be around 9.7 to 10.0 depending on the gasket thickness.

Ive read stock is .047". SCE offers them in .043, .050, .062 and bigger.

Im thinking if I get the .062" and get a total of .015 shaved from the block and head, I can stay around the 10.0 that JE claims.

My other thought is to get the .050" and get no more than .005" shaved total from the block and head and increase the compression slightly. Im not sure how possible that would be though.

Per Cometic's website, they offer .030 and .075" gaskets.

Sorry for the long winded post, just don't want to mess this up.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, September 07, 2011 12:31 PM

"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

I know with any MLS gasket the two biggest things are making sure the surfaces are clean and smooth and that the rivets holding the layers together don't end up on the matting surface.

I used a Cometic on my Ecotec with no issues, but the Ecotec block and head have cut-outs for the rivets in the gasket so they don't end up being sandwiched between the two surfaces since its uses a MLS gasket from factory.

I've never seen a LD9 Cometic gasket before, so Ive never layed one on a block before....but make damn sure the rivets are clear of the two surfaces or it won't seal.

Worst case you may have to drill the rivets out (if you don't want to clearance the block or head).

I think as long as you have those sorted out, you should be fine with either.

I was wondering about the rivets. On my DSM the rivets were on a tab that actually stuck out from between the block and head.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

I forgot to add Cometic says you don't need to re-torque their headgaskets...you can for piece of mind if you wish obviously.

I never did after installing mine however and I've put a solid 2500 miles on it and 40 or so 1/4 passes with no issues yet.

Correct Newt, Cometic does not need to be retorqued. They require to torqe your headstuds in a 3 cycle interval of 25 foot lbs.

Ive had my Cometic for a while, dynotuned 8+ hours, no issues at all. Do the torque sequence correct at 85 ft lbs and you will be fine.

Like Newt said, make sure the deck fo the block and the had are as clean as possible. If you want, also use copper spray on both sides of the gasket to ensure a proper seal. Ive done this.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I believe that was Matthew Jollymore's issue with his MLS, that he didn't retorque it.

I would for the piece of mind.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

DSMskyline wrote:I believe that was Matthew Jollymore's issue with his MLS, that he didn't retorque it.

I would for the piece of mind.

No, his issue was he only torqued them to stock specs at first, 40 foot lbs! THAT was his issue.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

LOL that explains it.

If its true that the MLS doesn't need re-torquing, it may get my business.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

Alot of ld9 guys have had problems with cometics, you can use copper rtv spray between the layers which in doing so I dont think anyone had problems with.

lol Yea man, Cometic says no need to retorque. But of course if you need it for a peice of mind then by all means, but I dont think none of us high hp guys on here have done that. I know the copper headgasket needs to be retorqued, but your block needs to be o-ring for you to even have that one anyway.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

The titan ICS doesnt need the oring, its built into the gasket.

Click Me


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

Well @!#$, thats sweet. LOL










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I use ARP head studs on my 2200, and I re-torqued them after about 300-500 miles.
I did it for the peace of mind.
Also the 2200 has the rivets on tabs outside the mating surface.
Mine has held up to 22 psi with daily beating during tuning.
Until my auto trans thought otherwise.
Granted it was 22 PSI from a big 16G, so not too much CMF, only around 540.
If you were going to run a bigger turbo, like a 57-63 trim, you will get much higher final compression ratios, cylinder pressures, and cylinder temperatures.
This could lead to a different expierence with your individual gasket.

Good to know. I wish Cometic had more choices for thickness.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

cometic can make you any thickness you need.

Hmmm if I have an O-ringed block do I need to use a copper gasket without a fire ring then?

^^^ thatd be a great query for titan, man. let us know what they say!


for those confused on ARP studs, etc... watch this, you'll learn something, i guarantee it.

That is great info. I used the stuff that came with the studs from arp. Iv heard of some people using moly lube which I thought was the same. Now I know to always use the stuff ARP sends out with the studs


"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae

I've got the big bottle of that lube, works as a great anti seeze on other stuff as well.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

Zs Z wrote:Hmmm if I have an O-ringed block do I need to use a copper gasket without a fire ring then?

I have an O-ringed block and just ordered a SCE Titan headgasket. You could use a plain copper headgasket, but you will need to spray both sides first



Jason
99 Z24

LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren

Blwn LD9 wrote:

Zs Z wrote:Hmmm if I have an O-ringed block do I need to use a copper gasket without a fire ring then?

I have an O-ringed block and just ordered a SCE Titan headgasket. You could use a plain copper headgasket, but you will need to spray both sides first

Im pretty sure I want a .091 titan with the coolant seals, that'll give me about 9.2-1 for my 086 turbo build.

on a side note i gotta say the titan's are very nice piece. i saw tyler's recently and was amazed. well worth the funds.

Definitely use the ARP lube with ARP studs. Great video Brad.

Only dilemma I have with the Titan gasket is its listed for both the 2.3 and 2.4.


GMR has got nothing on this

Sce lists they have the newer water passages. It will need the same mods as a 2.4 gasket needs when using the 086 head.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

I used the Cometic on my Turbo LD9, never leaked for me, and I dont think JR has had any issues either.

Cometic can be had in .030 .075 AND .080 You can order it from TurboTech (ask Aaron, as the thicker isnt listed), or you can find it on Ebay.

As for using the 2.4 gasket on a 2.3 head....... Mod the head, not the gasket. I'll be taking pics of when I do the one on my bench, but all that truely needs to be modded are water passages on one side. Those passages can be drilled into the head.




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