Starting an interest thread, talked to Phil and he will get another GP going if we are able to get the minimum of 12 people interested.
This is just for interest, so don't yell at me for not being premium. Someone premium can take over for the GP.
1. Andrew Gohs (SLOCAV)
i can just sell you mine lol
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
1. Andrew Gohs (SLOCAV)
2. Mario Gionet (SilvrSunfir)
1. Andrew Gohs (SLOCAV)
2. Mario Gionet (SilvrSunfir)
3. Dallas(ecotechracer)
Not to derail this interest thread or take it too far off topic, but what would be great is a collaboration of Phil's trigger wheel (which is really TCE's wheel), and someone with experience making crank pulleys so that we can get these suckas keyed or fabbed as one piece. Trust me when i say the biggest downfall to the bolt on wheel we use is the complete inability to line it up exactly the same way twice...
I'm just hoping to get something going so I can get my LE5 build going, and I don't want to be stopped by a tiny $75 dollar part. Might post this up on EF, maybe more interest on there?
oldskool wrote:Not to derail this interest thread or take it too far off topic, but what would be great is a collaboration of Phil's trigger wheel (which is really TCE's wheel), and someone with experience making crank pulleys so that we can get these suckas keyed or fabbed as one piece. Trust me when i say the biggest downfall to the bolt on wheel we use is the complete inability to line it up exactly the same way twice...
x2
I'd buy another one if someone could get it keyed, wouldn't take much, just a degree wheel and have a spacer welded to the back of the wheel with a knotch in it to fit into the keyway on the crank pulley.
I don't necessarily have any plans on a hybrid but I may be interested in picking one up just so I have it if I ever change my mind...
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
A steel pulley with the trigger built in would be the easiest thing to do.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
If anyone is willing to start designing, making something that will work for the hybrid swap just let me know. I don't want this small part holding back an entire build
-MD- Enforcer wrote:A steel pulley with the trigger built in would be the easiest thing to do.
Or an aluminum pulley with a steel wheel mounted on the front of it....
***Id buy one in a heartbeat if it was keyed...
Its the one thing that has kinda held me back from doing the 2.4 hybrid swap.
Question....does it have to be steel. Im assuming it uses magnetism to read the trigger??
Yep, the ring itself has to be steel.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
im in.
Sig thanks to bxmobkrazey on gmscf.com
Nevermind.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 06, 2011 5:10 PM
Does anyone know how far from top dead center the reference tooth is the trigger wheel?
Specifically the degrees of the front of the tooth to TDC.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, October 10, 2011 4:17 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Maybe I can draw one up right quick.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Maybe I can draw one up right quick.
hero status!! I'm in as an immediate customer if/when you make these!!
TDC on the piston though is not "exactly" TDC as marked by the wheel on the crankshaft. Meaning that when the sensor is centered over "TDC" groove (the one that is spaced 70* before the extra groove), the piston is a few degrees in to dwell at TDC. I learned this the hard way the first time i timed the external wheel...
In other words, for the first time you do it, or to get a really good reference of how things line up, it's better to look at an L61 out of the car, with the CKP sensor removed and spin it to see where that reference groove is in the wheel on the crank relative to the crank pulley.
Sounds like I'll be needing some help when it comes time to get the wheel on correctly....
So....Where is the reference groove in relation to the keyway in the crank pulley?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
God I hope the keyed one becomes a reality.!!!
I'll buy atleast one for my 2.4 hybrid supercharger build.
-MD- Enforcer wrote:So....Where is the reference groove in relation to the keyway in the crank pulley?
I'd have to take a closer look. I never timed it with reference to the keyway on the pulley cause you can't see it while you're actually timing it lol. I always use the small hash on the outside diameter of the stock pulley to time it. Maybe the next time i have access to an L61 motor outside of the car i can get some pictures for you - you'd need to see the keyway for the crank pulley with the pulley removed right, with the motor at TDC as indicated by the groove on the crank?
The other factor is that this is all relative where the CKP sensor is mounted. If everyone mounts it as Newt, Phil and I did, there shouldn't be too much variation, but the sensor's position is oviously integral.
Well ideally a bracket made the same that can be added to the cost would help. That way it all works together. Wouldn't be hard to make a bracket and show us where to install it
