Can someone direct me to what is a great camshaft for the ecotec, from what I have noticed it is COMP cams.
Do I just install them and drive?
All aftermarket ecotec camshafts require upgraded valve springs. No questions/exceptions. They also will require a custom tune and larger injectors to maximize their effect.
You are going about this wrong each camshaft set that Comp offers if best for a particular application. You have to figure out what your goals are then pick a set that will help you reach them. Even then Comps cams are just general grinds for multiple "builds". Truly the "best" cams for anyone's build is a set that are custom ground to your specific needs/wants.
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^^^^This.
There are many aftermarket Ecotec cam manufactures overseas, I've found no less than a dozen off the shelf cams from manufactures in Europe, you just gotta look around.
They overseas cams do come at a premium although over Comp cams, as they start at around $800 and go up from there.
But figure out what you want to do first, and then pick a cam for your application, or buy the GM blanks and get a set custom ground.
Just a FYI we carry the comp cams on www.TurboTechRacing.com
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Any cam install done the right way carries a bigger premium than just the price of the cam. If you have access to GM's phase retainer/cam gear holder tool, you can get away a little cheaper/easier, but either way you're looking at a minimum of supertech 78lb spring kit (also available from TTR), and NEW cam gear bolts. As mentioned, best results are obtained with larger injectors and tuning. Even with tuning however "bigger" cams lead to moderately worse drivability (some stalling at coastdown at first, worse gas mileage, marginal loss of very low RPM torque, ect). With out the cam gear tool, you're basically looking at tearing open the whole passenger side of the motor, which, while not extremely difficult, is kind of tedious with the motor in the car.
If you've never done anything "internal" to an L61, I'd suggest paying for professional install.
So springs are required even for comp cams stage ones?
SLO CAV (autocrossing dude) wrote:So springs are required even for comp cams stage ones?
This is the ONLY comp cam stage that honestly does not require higher rate springs. HOWEVER if you raise your rev limited and over rev damage may occur, and could have possible been prevented with upgraded springs.
This is becuase the stage 1 cams do NOT require you to rev much if any past the stock rev limiter, and lift is not to much over stock (within reason of the stock springs)
In the end we have installed these stage 1's without springs, but most times are do spring installs at the same time as long as you are in there.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
It was my understanding (I'm not a Eco expert), that the turbo grind cams do not require upgraded springs, if not reving past 7200RPM's.
FU Tuning
$%@& me.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, December 19, 2011 9:36 PM
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Guys thanks for the advice and talk. Keep it up.
I am having a bit of a problem.
My 03 l61 with 5 speed is acting weird.
When changing into a gear driving at normal speeds in the city ( gears starts around 1,300 rpm for me ) My engine will act very harsh around 1,450 to 1,900 rpm. Its a thrash like sound. I don't think any power is lost since this is my first time experiencing this motor.
But I would like to say this isn't normal.
Addicted to meth wrote:It was my understanding (I'm not a Eco expert), that the turbo grind cams do not require upgraded springs, if not reving past 7200RPM's.
turbo cams are not as aggressive as the stage 3's but they do need the springs for pretty much any cam other than stock for eco. Even if I were doing stage 1's which are not much off of stock.... Id still do springs.
I've always read, and always been told to replace the springs if you upgrade the cams. Especially with the boosted cars, you will experience some float at higher rpms.
