So just finished working on my
complete exhaust and a bit of
trans work. Now for the engine.
Local junkyard had this:
Pulled from a '97 Z like mine complete turnkey, 5-speed Isuzu, 80k miles car had no rust either did the engine bay someone already got the A/C compressor already (sweet didn't need it anyways) even has the ECU!. Either way, so now I have a spare engine.
I want to put a new cam in but before buying anything I wanted to show JBO my parts list. Now keep in mind I'm a bargain hunter and I am not willing to shell out a lot of money for this. My craplier is just that a piece a crap that I love and take care of and modify within reason. This is a moderate build to make my crapalier to be more "fun" not to win races or anything.
Cam:
So first the cam I'm was originally thinking of getting the W41 cam but was told I would need to bore out my towers to get it to work and this was considerable cost so this is not an option and I'm looking at the HO cam which only needs to bore if you go with the 35mm lifters. But if sticking to the stock lifter I should be fine? I should be able to get both intake/outake from the local junkyard for
$50.
Springs:
I'm getting the HO springs from Sealed power.
Intake Manifold:
Getting the HO manifold for $30 from the junkyard.
Hex bolt?
Apparently I need a hex bolt something for my cam so it can run the power steering pump? And on top of that I need to drill a hole into the cam to put the bolt in? Anybody have the part number? or is this it:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=430216
Part #11517518
Also I am going to lose cruise control? (Can somebody explain to me why so I can try to get around it?)
Thank you all know JBO!
Anything else I should know?
Hey thanks for the response! Is it true I can buy this insert from GM? So if I took the new cam to the dealership they can find out what I'm looking for?
OMG wrote:
Cam:
So first the cam I'm was originally thinking of getting the W41 cam but was told I would need to bore out my towers to get it to work and this was considerable cost so this is not an option and I'm looking at the HO cam which only needs to bore if you go with the 35mm lifters. But if sticking to the stock lifter I should be fine? I should be able to get both intake/outake from the local junkyard for
$50.
Springs:
I'm getting the HO springs from Sealed power.
There are some flaws with this part of your plan. You will need 35mm lifters if you plan on running HO springs, anything larger that the small stock cams in the 2.4 will cause the 33mm 2.4 lifter to gouge the HO springs. So you will need to bore out the towers no matter whether you run HO or W41 cams. There is a crower spring available that should fit and allow you to retain 33mm lifters and higher lift cams but no one has actually run it yet, so it is still just a theory. Also last but not least there are 2 cams not one cam haha.
Hey thanks that's what i'm looking for, flaws in my plan. I would rather not find out the day off. Also I did know that there are two cams =D that's why I mentioned the intake/outtake cams ($25 a piece) also thanks Zyaa I found the part number you posted in another thread.
So a couple more brain picks for ya guys.
A) So the only advantage of the HO of over the W41 is the cam position sensor? Which means no cruise on the W41?
B) How much would it cost to have your head bored out or is it something one can do with adequate skills?
Thanks for the feedback so far guys.
A: the W41 cam has a higher lift/duration than the HO cam... AFAIK neither cam comes with a CPS sensor... this started in 1995 with the LO "Secret" Cam...
B: My Head Port and Polish cost nearly $700... add another $100 for the 1mm overbore for the valves... --- I do not know what it costs to bore the cam towers... I bought mine with my .430 .222 crane cams.
---
You only need to bore the intake cam tower out... You can run an HO exhaust tower with an HO Cam, HO Lifters, HO Springs.
Brad: Aren't HO Intake cams longer to run to a pulley for the PS... so to make em work in an LD9, the end needs to be cut off and the hex key installed?
For A The cam sensor doesn't affect cruise, I controls sequential injection. But batch fire runs fine.
I don't follow losing the cruise control either? I cannot see why if you kept the elecronics in there why it wouldn't work as it runs off the computer anyway as opposed to vaccume(80's-early 90's autos)
ummm if you are on a 'bang for the buck' kick with the LD9 then you need to read the sticky cam thread and just run those...DIRECT FIT, tune will be needed for anything bigger than these, and even with these cams you would be advised to get a tune
but if you want to spend money in this area than as mystic said you only have to modify one tower for lifters,
but, you still need 16 2.3L lifters
machine work to the head to ensure the valves seat correctly
16 2.3L springs
16 2.3L retainers
and i'm not sure if you can use your ld9 valves or not, if not then there is another 16 valves/valve guides and seals to deal with
So from what I gather you need to stick with secret cam swap, and to run that H.O mani you are talking about...umm this won't just "bolt" onto the ld9 head so unless I have missed something, my recommendation is secret cams, pacesetter or custom made header
i have LD9 valves, but i run TI retainers that adapt to 2.3 springs and 2.4 valves
you can use 2.4 valves with 2.3 retainers and 2.4 locks. The locks and retainers are not a perfect fit because they are 1 degree different, however many have run the combo before with no ill effect. Jmarks is one person off the top of my head that is using the "incorrect" 2.3/2.4 combo and he has tons of track passes etc.
Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:
Brad: Aren't HO Intake cams longer to run to a pulley for the PS... so to make em work in an LD9, the end needs to be cut off and the hex key installed?
yep. the end has a long nose on it that sticks out of the tower for the pulley to attach to.
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
Most of the machine work is no big deal for me I have a decent garage and plenty of tools and I have a few friends who run machine/mechanic shops. I just prefer to do as much of my own work as possible and not call on favors or outside work.
I know it sounds like i'm half-adding this, but it's really because this is really just a winter DD so I don't want to pour too much money into it. I love the car (what the hell I love cars in general as long as it can get out of it's own way).
I really appreciate the help so far. I'll do some more picking around the yards along with some extra research and will return with more questions.
This project will probably not fully take off until sometime in mid-may or late June.
Zs Z wrote:you can use 2.4 valves with 2.3 retainers and 2.4 locks. The locks and retainers are not a perfect fit because they are 1 degree different, however many have run the combo before with no ill effect. Jmarks is one person off the top of my head that is using the "incorrect" 2.3/2.4 combo and he has tons of track passes etc.
Minor correction. Its 2* different and the 2.4 keepers in a 2.3 retainer will allow the retainer to sit a little higher on the valve than the 2.4 retainer would. Nothing major, but enough that I wasnt completely satisfied. The minor increase in height will have an impact on spring pressure, but no clue how much of a difference it makes.
That being said. I the Ti retainers cost me less than my stockers cost from GM back in 05ish. No clue as to what Gm retainers are up to now though.
probably double
yeah bud, just modify a HO intake mani to fit your 2.4 head, make some custom headers, and slap some 'secret cams' in it and make your self a 2.5" cat-back, a 2.3 throttle body, maybe gasket match everything while your at it and you should be looking at some pretty decent power without spending a pretty penny out of the LD...definatly enough to have fun with
