I installed my eagles on the crank torqued em done to 18+80* and checked for free movement of the crank by hand after every torque. I just finished torque'n down the rod on cylinder 2 and the crank wouldn't turn at all. Losened the rod a turn or so and it would move again. But under torque it seizes up the crank. Anyone know what it could be?
check bearing clearance. are you using assembly lube?
Make sure you put the cap back on the correct way and didn't spin it 180*?
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
I did use assembly lube. And I will check for clearance tomorrow. I ordered the stock size bearings but ill check to be sure.
180*, Meaning turned the opposite way of which it was removed.
The crank was inspected by my machine shop and passed. So its completly stock. Is there a chanffer on the rods? I would check but I'm not at my garage at the moment.
NO. What did he measure? Did you check his measurments? Did you measure the rods? How did you fit the bearings in caps? There is a lot of factors here and people on this forum will help you but you need to give as much info as you possibly can.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
I tried swapping bearing from a rod that spins freely and it still binds. I tried turning the rod around for that maybe-Ness. I'm going to try a different rod in that cylinder. Just in case. He did a visual inspection. I didn't want to pay for a full inspection and i didn't have a problem with it before.
Is it alright for the crank not to turn by hand but with a ratchet it turns smoothly? Could it be because there's no oil circulating?
Plasti gauge all the rods then take the cap bearing from the rod with the most clearance and swap it with the tight retorque it and recheck clearance. it should be about half what it was.
see ya!
I swapped it with two other bearings. Same thing.. I'm still learning plasti-gauge but they were all in the ball park of chiltin.
It was a pain in the ass to turn mine by hand, but if it turns freely with the ratchet and somewhat easily. Is that the case with yours?
Yea exactly it. Word for word. Dis you have find any issues with that?
ok, back up the truck....
now you should be checking the main bearing clearances as well. any crank i have every installed in an LD9 has spun freely by hand. will it spin easy as sin like a lightweight honda crank? no lol but it will spin by hand. now.. if you have the 2.3 oil pump on there then sure its going to be a bit more difficult but i doubt you have gotten that far yet.
anyways, check the mains too. cant hurt. also, always install one rod at a time, that way you can spin it over each time individually and see if that one is the one thats catching.
what are you using for assembly lube?
as for MARK's (hehe) statement.. if they ground it ".010" then its incorrect. our bearings only come in STD, .25mm, .55mm, and .75mm. mm is NOT SAE no matter how much the machine shop claims its close enough.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, June 06, 2012 5:35 AM
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After each rod install the crank got harder and harder to turn by hand. On the last one it wouldn't turn by hand. So i grabbed the pulley bolt with a ratchet and it would turn. Smoothly once it started. As for assembly lube I don't know off hand. I'll post up when I'm back in the garage. It was given to me by the machine shop. It's what they use when assembling there motors.
Mine was the same as yours. Crank spun very freely by hand and progressively got more difficult as it added pistons and rods until hands couldn't do it alone. Feels very free with the ratchet on it. Also I know my bearings are right, my machinist measured while I was there and he ordered them as well as double checked everything.
So i should be good... Correct?
someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but don't the Eagle rods come with ARP bolts, and if so are you supposed to do the +80* on them?
Thats what my spec sheet shows on mine..I dont know if it makes a differance but mine is for an Eco..
Ecotec should be 43FT LBS 3/8 bolt LD9 has a 5/16 bolt so 28 FT LBS both are the ARP 2000 material
