I installed my racetronix w-body pump over the weekend. It seems like it's too small for the pump housing. I snapped some pictures...
The hose also seemed a little long...
Did anyone else have this issue? I'm praying the sock on the bottom holds the pump in the housing. I put about 600 miles on the car since the install and haven't had any trouble. To anyone else who installed this pump, how did you deal with this issue?
"In Oldskool we trust"
You housing looks a lot larger than it should be...It looks like the f-body pump would fit in there....
The cup just seems large.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
It's really annoying because I specifically didn't buy the f-body pump not wanting to grind the housing out and notch the pump sleeve. I wanted the "drop in" replacement. It's an 05 if that makes a difference.
"In Oldskool we trust"
From my reading this is what it's like. Either it's to large and you clearance the housing or it's to small and you deal with it being to small.
I'm going to put my metal sleeve in the lathe and turn it down so it slides in nicely
@%!$!#!&$#*!!#&#%!$! I even have a lathe. I hate how every "drop in replacement" turns out close but no cigar.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Is your pump assembly the OEM unit or an aftermarket replacement??? Reason I ask is most aftermarket pump modules such as Airtex use a slightly larger pump than factory. You can get a rubber sleeve from another GM car that slides over the Racetronix pump that holds it in place. Go to an Advance Auto or Autozone and ask to look at their fuel pump catalog and you should find the sleeve under the accessories or installation kit section. Hope this helps.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Hmmm. The original owner said it was never replaced, but that may be helpful....if I ever have the tank down again.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Another thing you do since you have a lathe is make your own spacer.
I may do that myself and use some old nylon I have kicking around.
Mine was the same way. For the time being, I used stainless safety wire to tie it in place in the inner cup...wrapped it around the pump and through the slots at the tab that usually presses down on the stock unit. Over the winter I'm going to hunt for a sleeve Roofy mentioned and swap it in.
I considered making some sort of bracket or spacer but just ran out of time. I'm guessing the extra long feed hose and the super tight clip on the sock will keep it in there. I'll fix it if I run into problems in the future. Thanks for the info guys, at least I know I'm not alone.
"In Oldskool we trust"
this is the reason i tell people to get the f body one but you people never listen your all to caught up on your ways
i have seen both installed the W body is the same kit as f body minus the sleave, you buy the kit with no sleave its loose in the cup end of story
you want it tight in the sleave buy the f body on and take a dremmel and remove those ridges in the cup and the pump fits night and snug
the first guy that one talks to says w body then next guy thats seen both say get f body oh he must be a quack i will listen to him.
if the someone says, see that bridge with the jagged rocks below i jump off it every day, next guy i don't think thats a good idea lets not jump, fawk that man that guys does it everyday
FOR THE RECORD I WOULD NEVER BUY THE W BODY KIT BECAUSE OF THAT REASON EXACT SAME KIT AS F BODY AND IT FITS SNUG, FFOR YOU SEARCHERS OUT THERE READ THIS PART AND IF YOU OPT TO THE W BODY DON'T COME CRYING THAT YOU WEREN'T WORNED
JBO since July 30, 2001
Well at least there is a solution. I couldn't be more pissed off right now. I do not want to drop this tank again. I'll have to drill out all those rivets again for the exhaust shield and hold my breath as I work the clips open on the fuel lines.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Here you guys go...
Its called a fuel pump insulating sleeve.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, November 27, 2012 6:11 PM
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
My Wbody is the same way. But the pump will not and does not move because of the sock at the bottom attached and the corrugated hose attached as well. Whats the problem?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
What does racetronics use to hold the venturi line?
Double ear clamps??
WHITECAVY wrote:My Wbody is the same way. But the pump will not and does not move because of the sock at the bottom attached and the corrugated hose attached as well. Whats the problem?
I had the same thought, but I'd still like it to be right. It's just flopping around in there now. Thanks Roofy for that info.
"In Oldskool we trust"
^Understandable. I like those foam cups roofy posted. If I run into problems I will grab one of those.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
My W-Body pump is loose as well, no issues yet.
The sock and hose hold it in there, I really dont think its going anywhere.
x10,000 on the sock and not causing any issues.
The only thing you WILL notice is cold starts the pump starts fine on 1 prime...but a warm startup, mine requires 1 prime and a touch of the thorttle just once, or 2 or 3 primes and its fine.
But other than that, its working great.
Make sure that venturi clamp is tighter than a 15yo blonde bombshell in a buddhist temple!
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:x10,000 on the sock and not causing any issues.
The only thing you WILL notice is cold starts the pump starts fine on 1 prime...but a warm startup, mine requires 1 prime and a touch of the thorttle just once, or 2 or 3 primes and its fine.
But other than that, its working great.
Make sure that venturi clamp is tighter than a 15yo blonde bombshell in a buddhist temple!
Ha, yeah I squeezed the hell out of that clamp. I've noticed almost the opposite in regards to start ups. On warm start up its almost like stock. I just hold the key to on for a second or two. On cold starts it takes 2 primes and then I still have to turn it over extra long until it builds enough pressure. Kind of a pain but it's not the end of the world. Now I need to look into a FPR so I can actually utilize the higher pressure.
"In Oldskool we trust"
hahahaha blu04dd you realize that you pressing the throttle in prime does absoluting nothing on a fuel injected car right hahahahaha
the reason they use the prime is to build up pressure in the fuel rail so when the engine is cranked over theres fuel pressure there for the ignition cycle
if you had a carburated car then this would work but not fuel injected
JBO since July 30, 2001
what are you talking about...im talking about once its turned over it will try to die if i dont tap the gas pedal to give it a slight help in providing enough fuel to stay running
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:what are you talking about...im talking about once its turned over it will try to die if i dont tap the gas pedal to give it a slight help in providing enough fuel to stay running
actually sounds more like a slow/sticky IAC, considering you said it happens mostly when warm...
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