Constant struggle with this "H" fitting in my heater core lines.
Most people are not even sure it's actual function.
Anyone opposed to me removing this so I can route my lines cleanly and leak free?
Leak by
qwik2k2z24, on Flickr
I suppose this is the correct forum section...
BeardLife /
Club Awesome Reject Blog
i believe that is there so you can flush the coolant system. ive heard this a few times anyway...
dont see any reason why you cant ditch it.
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.
YES, and here is why.
When your turn your AC on, if you still have AC. A valve turns off coolant flow to the heater core. If I recall correctly. This is a bypass valve to let coolant flow from the engine back to the engine when the loop for the heater core is turned off. This is also there to let coolant continue to flow to the motor when / if the heater core gets blocked.
I design coolant control valves all day everyday at work.
Go to
http://www.thermotion.com/topic/18-electronic-coolant-control-valve.aspx to see a typical flow pattern of a four port valve.
Jay message me on Facebook, and I'll give you my cell number if you want to talk about it in greater detail. I'm sure we could figure something out.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
huh i wasnt aware there was a valve inside that H thingy... how is it controlled? there is no electronic sensors or vaccum sources etc hooked up to it... (that i remember?)
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.
Maybe it runs like some sort of mechanical check valve when coolan is shut off. Confuses me as well
I too wondered this back when i first rebuilt my engine. My advisor (dad) lol told me there is more than likely a check valve in it. So i was advised not to ditch it. So i didnt. PICS OF BILLET UNIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GMR has got nothing on this
The Ecotec's have no such "H fitting" on the heater core hoses, not between the motor and the firewall anyways.
Unless there is a built in bypass in the thermo housing, my brain can't quite seem to remember how it hooks up to the motor.
Just food for thought.
I just googled a picture, looks to be some sort of check valve (or bypass valve, hard to tell what id does but there is something there) possibly on the thermo housing under where on the of the hoses connects.
Easy solution tho, swap in an Ecotec
I ditched that on my build. Didnt see any changes or any negative effects.
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
I completely got rid of mine. Then again, I have No ac or heat.
meh lol
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
The previous posters are correct. The Ecotec cars don't have a check valve or heater control valve on their OEM hose setups .The water outlet where the heater hoses come out of, however, does have a check valve built into it.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Since some of you are not listening...you can clearly see the check valve / by-pass valve.
Part number 9...
VALVE,HTR WAT BYPASS(ACDelco #15-5675). Required: 01
For: J 2.4D/T(LD9) (2000-2002) (2000 - 2002).
Stock Code: 22657309 ; 15-5675; 155675
Manufacturer: GM
Categories: Air Conditioning and Heating > Controls
Assemblies: HOSES & PIPES/HEATER
1999 CHEVROLET MALIBU 4-146 2.4L DOHC
1999 OLDSMOBILE ALERO 4-146 2.4L DOHC
1999 PONTIAC GRAND AM 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2000 CHEVROLET CAVALIER 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2000 OLDSMOBILE ALERO 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2000 PONTIAC GRAND AM 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2000 PONTIAC SUNFIRE 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2001 CHEVROLET CAVALIER 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2001 OLDSMOBILE ALERO 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2001 PONTIAC GRAND AM 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2001 PONTIAC SUNFIRE 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2002 CHEVROLET CAVALIER 4-146 2.4L DOHC
2002 PONTIAC SUNFIRE 4-146 2.4L DOHC
You wouldn't see any real problem is everything is working as it should, and you removed it. It is to prevent overheating.
95-99s is slightly different, but the same concept.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:09 AM
- Attachments
- h-ld9.JPG (71k)
top-ld9.JPG (91k)
96-99.JPG (83k)
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
ON the ecotec motor the by-pass is in the pump housing.
As much as I do not want to admit it the ecotec design is a lot better...all around.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:18 AM
- Attachments
- l61 front.JPG (113k)
l61 rear.JPG (138k)
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Damn that's some good info dude.
I will opt to keep it but run a better hose setup and make sure to prevent leakage ahead of time.
BeardLife /
Club Awesome Reject Blog
I mean you do not "need" it. It is just there for safety. Being turbo, I would want to keep it.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
The only other people I saw that didn't use it on his turbo setup was Fetter, and well you see he had no problems with it. Also Darren took his off too.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I havent seen one of these on my LN2. Is that built into the heater core?
