Has anyone figured out how to fix the adjustments of the one piece headlights?
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
If by adjustments you are referring to aiming the headlights i have a suggestion.
Now bear in mind that i do not have these headlights therefore i may not be fully informed,
But would it not work to just cut off the support bracket for the stock turn signals on the fender itself.
This would give you the ability to adjust, and make it easy when going back to stock just to do the 00-02 front end swap
Just an idea....
Andrew
I'm not entirely sure what part of the adjustment you're having trouble with. I know you mentioned the high-beams to me earlier -- the distance between the aim of the high beam vs. the projectors is a bit large, but not a real problem that I've noticed.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
When I have my projectors more or less aimed where they should be, my highbeams are aimed very high, like tree top high. I think i'll take abdrews advice, just probably not anytime soon as I don't have the tools to cut the corner light bracket out. that might help.
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
I have a picture of what mine look like with both beams on at the same time. The bottom beams are standard halogen. The high beams are slightly whiter Silverstars, so you can see the cutoff pretty clearly.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
I'll have to check mine out against a building again. will probably have to adjust them again. I'll take a pic too. I'm going to be installing a set of 6000k H1s soon, the kit shipped was $85cdn
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
You'll probably find that the HIDs will make your low beams more capable on their own, and the high beams will be less important. I would suggest setting up a low-plus-high beam mod as
discussed in my thread, since you should be using a relay with the HIDs anyways. The HIDs should continue light up the road, and the halogen high beam will just add some glimmer to things in the distance. This keeps the HIDs from being cycled off as much also.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
I haven't used my highs since I got these projectors lol. It would be nice to put them to use again though, although I think my HIDS will over power sylvania night hawks
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
I'm still messing around with the low-beam aiming on mine with HIDs. I grabbed a few road shots last night.
In this one you can see the bit of yellow at the fringe that was bugging me. I'm used to it now.
This is the same shot, but with the halogen high-beams on too. If you look closely you can see the ditch and hydro poles at the side of the road are lit up slightly, and in person there is an actually improvement on the road far ahead. A mailbox becomes visible way up the road on the left. It's not much. I'll admit they add nearly nothing to overall light output.
But where you really want to have some kind of high-beam is for picking up street signs or signs of animals (read: deer). All of the yellow and white dots in this picture are road signs and markers that are virtually lost without the high beams on.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
My stock H1s that came in my projectors seem to light up road signs really well from a long distance. when I turn the highbeams on it doesn't change anything unless tress are around.
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
Cold Air wrote:My stock H1s that came in my projectors seem to light up road signs really well from a long distance. when I turn the highbeams on it doesn't change anything unless tress are around.
If you're lighting up distant signs with the H1 (low beams) in these projectors, I'd have to think they're aimed
way too high. That might explain why the high beams are out in space.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
The H1s as far as I'm concerned aren't high enough. tested it in a buddies car and the projectors are no where near peoples faces.
They same to put out an outter glow which is lighting up the signs. hard to explain but whatever reason it works.
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
I'm not going to argue with results, but I would suggest keeping in mind how much a bumpy road can throw the lights upward. As far as lighting up signs, if they are somehow doing that without being aimed skyward, then awesome. All I know is that the overall pitch on my lows (if I'm next to a wall or snowdrift) is slightly downward.
Shop Manuals, Brochures:
www.kenmcgeeautobooks.com
yup mine too, once I get the right side working again and the HIDs installed I'll post some pics. Corrosion decided to take out my right a couple days ago.
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
In regards to your posts, it seems that you need to aim the headlights which is quite obvious.
With projectors, they need to be aimed differently than standard lights, due to the fact that the light output becomes cut off.
Here is a guide when aiming them.
TO AIM PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS:
1. Align your car dead center in your driveway....the front and back of your car need to be perfectly aligned in the center.
2. Pull your car up to the garage door...as close as you can get without hitting the door..dead center in the middle of the garage door / driveway.
3. Put a piece of tape where the headlight beams hit the garage door. This should only be small dot of light.on either side..
4. Pull you car back 25 feet... if you cannot achieve this in your driveway, go to your local highschool or somewhere with level ground. Your Projector lens should be 25' away from the garage door...not your tires or your bumper...your headlights. DEAD CENTER IN THE DRIVEWAY, I used measuring tape..
5. With tape Place a VERTICAL line that intersects each piece of tape that you put on the garage where your headlight beams hit. Use a level to make it perpendicular to the driveway. This is important for aiming your lights right to left....this is just as important as up and down because if your lights are aimed to far left you will blind oncoming traffic and if they are aimed too far right your not getting the most out of your light.
6. With tape place a horizontal line along the garage that intersects each piece of tape that you put on the garage where your headlight beams hit. They should oth be the same height off the driveway.
7. With tape place a horizontal line along the garage that is 2.1" lower than the tape you placed on the garage in instruction #6. This line should be parallel with the line in #6...just 2.1" lower.
8. Cover up the passenger side headlight with a thick towel.
9. Turn on your lights
10. Drivers Side UP/Down: Bring the lower step of the cutoff to or below the tape line that is 2.1" lower than your headlights...Dot Spec is 2.1" to 2.5" drop over 25'
11. Drivers Side Right / Left: The Vertical line on the drivers side of the garage should intersect the middle of the slant on the cutoff. Move the beam pattern until this is the case.
Moving the projectors from right to left may effect the height of the beam pattern. If this is the case..just go back and fine tune.
12. Cover the Drivers side headlight with a thick towel.
13. Repeat the UP/Down Left/Right procedure that you did on the drivers side with the passenger side. The vertical line on the passenger side of the garage is to be used for instersecting the slant in the cutoff on the passenger side headlight beam.
I found a handy picture on another forum and mimicked it for this writeup.
Keep in mind im running 12k hids and if you are running halogens the outcome will be slightly different..
Andrew
I'll give that a shot. thank for the detailed write-up. Right now I don't have to worry about right bliding anyone as stated in previous post lol. and my left is currently slightly going to the right and isn't aimed too high either. I'm not going to bother adjusting them until I get the HIDS and the passenger side light fixed which is hopefully alot sooner than later.
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
If you bought these off ebay how did you get them to fit like stock? Every set i purchased left a big gap in between the bumper and the lense and the driver side hits the corner light.
To get them to fit like stock firstly i suggest you use the stock mounting brackets from your stock headlights.
The ones that you get off ebay are garbage,
Most likely they will not fit 100% without some modification due to the fact that they are ebay items.
im not dissing them i have a set of the two piece projectors.
Its just going to take some playing around with it to fit, they wont just bolt in perfectly which sucks for us all
Andrew
The bolts are no where near the same size, the bolts on the projectors are about 4-5mm bigger than the stockers.
on another note i just tried installing the HIDs and I'm not sure if i'm doing it right, when I turn the lights on they flicker and shut off I was able to get the right side to stay on the once out of the 6 times I tried turning them on. would it be because the car wasn't turned on? I get 12.6 volts with the car off and about 14.5 volts when it's on. would that make a difference?
1/4 Mile ET 15.2579 at 89.97mph
Damn its always something! Well anyway I sold them back on ebay a few days ago. Its someone else's problem now. LOL!!
Quote:
on another note i just tried installing the HIDs and I'm not sure if i'm doing it right, when I turn the lights on they flicker and shut off I was able to get the right side to stay on the once out of the 6 times I tried turning them on. would it be because the car wasn't turned on? I get 12.6 volts with the car off and about 14.5 volts when it's on. would that make a difference?
This has to do with the hids not getting enough power. The same thing happened when i got my hid kit.
Im not sure if you already know, but you will need a relay wiring harness for your setup.
The flickering is due to the fact that the stock wiring cannot give the hids enough power to stay on.
Try ebay, or any local shop that sells hid kits
Andrew