Can anyone give me a quick reference on a pan gasket install for a 2.0 LT3? I added a 2.0 pan setup to my 1.8 LA5 and don't have the proper install instructions. I guessed based on my instructions, then developed a leak. I bought the dry gasket and torqued to 7 ft/lbs with loc tite. Was good for a year, then developed a leak when hot by the oil pump. Should I be using rtv or something else? Tony mentioned a copper gasket spray?

Thoughts?

I can tell you first hand of my fun with that oil pan gasket JOB! When I did the engine resto my pan was sandblasted,painted etc.Now the oil pan comes with four pieces.Three are cork and one rubber.I used just the two cork,one rubber that fits in the groove at the trans and last but least NO gasket at the crankshaft just sealant.I sanded,used brake cleaner to make extra clean.Now I used permatex's the right stuff cost about 14.00 a can has a push nosel and applied a boat load on the crankshaft end,a mild bead on the sides and none on the rubber gasket end(wish I had put some there).I hand tighten all my bolts (screw torqueing them) and let sit uh like forever before the engine was even started.Now mine has no leaks except on the rubber gasket at the trans side(I was like shi at) it is not much but crap.If I ever pull it back down I know what to seal.The crank end the gasket slid out on the first gasket set(Damn) so removed recleaned it and 2nd installed I found the gasket at the crank is useless and used nothing but the RIGHT STUFF gasket sealer it want slide out!I would use a small thin amount around the trans rubber gasket even tho it fits into the groove I assure u it won't hurt.Do it all hand tight equally.I did drive the car hard to as to see if the gasket sealed good and did except the noted area with a very small leak not enuff to worry about..Hope this helps

Got it done.

Hand tight + right stuff. I also sanded the seams and brake cleaned all surfaces...

Letting her dry at least 24...

Good deal I would let it sit longer if the temps are cool at night.The right stuff sets up quick but,I let mine sit for eternity which was a little longer than necessary.Hope this resolves it for you.

Well, did the acid test today. Added oil and fired it up.

Started leaking after it made temp right at the seam where I put the right stuff. Thinking I should just try a dry gasket for a comparison.

I suggest using Loc Tite RTV Blue silicone if you can find it around, it has glue like adhesion and worked great for my car..Here is how I done it.
First off I removed that "pain in the neck" oil baffle plate to improve lubrication to the wrist pins and improve the seal reliability which was featured on the later LET engines.
Applied a constant bead of rtv around the oil pump housing joint, crank case mating surface, and rear main bearing cap joint (come in after and surround all bolt holes) then place the new single piece gasket up to the crank case.
Apply the same bead of rtv to the oil pan as was the crank case, apply a small amount of rtv to the bolt threads then install pan bolts barely finger tight at first.
Wait 45 minutes for the rtv to begin to become tacky before torquing in a diagonal pattern and at least two stages. wait 36-48 hours before adding oil or attempting to test your work, if you feel you need it put a small fan style heater near the pan overnight to give it a boost for proper curing.

Lewis-

I appreciate the info. Just need a few clarifications. The oil baffle plate? Are you talking about the windage tray that the pan gasket goes around? Are you saying pull the oil pump, or just rtv for the pan gasket?

Help appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul

Yeah I mean the windage tray that is sandwiched between the pan and crankcase, the Opel people refer to it as baffle plate, the oil pick up tube will need to be removed to allow the tray to clear the engine easily.
It is recommended to begin your bead starting at the oil pump joint, that is what I meant. You shouldn't need to pull the oil pump.

Lewis-
I just turn the baffle sideways and I can slide it out with the pickup tube in place. It is a much better design than my LA5 came with...

The gasket I have goes around the baffle. Are you just using rtv as the gasket with no rubber pan gasket? Yikes. That is why I went to this setup so I could use a dry gasket. My stock LA5 gasket was cork and it was waay messy.

Sounds like i need to pull it apart and run a bead all around that area. What I don't understand is that I had this setup on for a year with no leaks. This just started after I replaced my leaking sending unit and did an oil change.

I am using a gasket sandwiched between two beads of rtv, did you apply sealant to the threads of the sending unit?Have you checked the fitting in the pump for the turbo oil line, they leak sometimes.

ok, pulled it apart. I removed all rtv and cleaned real good with brakekleen. I put the pan and the windage tray on the bench and they were both bent a little and had some high spots. I hammed them out and reinstalled to just over hand tight and loctite. Filled with oil and started and ran for 10 minutes.

SOLID and DRY
Back to the to-do list...

Paul when I did my resto stuff I cleaned my pump and did remove it to do so.I used the gasket and a bead on both sides of my pump.The only thing I could think of why it did not leak could have been due to the oil press unit may have better flow/pressure who knows.Regardless it least things are in order.I worked on mine today had to fix one heater core hose leak engine side,since I did have to drain just water out before I remix the coolant.It's all sealed with some high tack gasket sealer (permatex and has a brush in can)and a solid constant torque clamp which it already had.The hose was new had a mild drip I was like whatever cause I was going to drain the system regardless.I will be buying a puller prolly this wk for the axles.

Well, still having issues. Will be playing with this more this weekend...

Will let you know how it goes.

Ok, completed ROUND THREE of dealing with this. The good news is it seems to go faster each time, but with the same results. I was thinking the PCV might have something to do with it so I swapped in anew one as the old one was sticking a bit.

Attempt one:

Dry gasket + right stuff on seam

Attempt two:

Dry gasket only after hammering and straightening

Attempt three:

Dry gasket + rtv all around leaking area and bolt holes.

Any suggestions for attempt four? I am thinking right stuff only and no gasket...

The car seems to holf 10-30 minutes then starts leaking, grrrr...

Oh my still screwing with the pan leak.Well I will keep this short,if u do attempt again.Remove USE a cordless drill with coarse brush on it and clean the area where the pan touches the block.I suggest about two cans of brake cleaner to clear all the oil residue into the crank area(it will drip oil).I would use the felpro cork gasket on the sides,the rubber one of course at the trans,and just the right stuff at the crankshaft pulley (about two good beads side by side).Clean yet again the pan use that brush to rough up the metal.I bought my brush attachments from lowes there cheap enuff or anywhere buy the ones that are GOLD in color they work the best.My recommend run a bead of the right stuff all the way around the block crank,sides even the trans area(even with the rubber it will leak).Then run the two beads on the pan at the crankpulley end,good beads down both sides and trans end and lay ur rubber seal in,lay the cork on the pan then install(a nice even sandwich and hand tight and get at least two bolts to hold each side and then run all the bolts in,then go back and tight front to rear (not staggered) as I did.or just clockwise to a good tightness.That is my so called short comment.Ha

Well, I did attempt 4 last night. I found an 89 turbo in the u pick it and grabbed the pan bolts as they are different than the ones I grabbed of the 2.0 na car that gave me my pan and windage tray. The bolts I have now are anodized black and wider than the ones I had. After pulling all apart it is leaking around 1 bolt hole...

Interesting and just to let you know my bolts are black and have a flange style head.Heck if you feel this is a issue auto zone and advance sell some flange style bolts new not sure if they will have our size but,prolly should.If I think of any other great non greasy ideas I will put it up here.

Ron-

I have the larger bolts now. We will see here soon. The older ones were just slightly larger than the ones holding the cam cover on (valve cover to your ohv).

ok, had her out today after moving my evap can. Was running ok with no leaks until we made temp. ok, I may not have mentioned this before but this is pretty big leak, like a big drip of clean oil every second. I am now thinking my problem is upstream in the oil pump itself and just running through and exiting on the pan gasket. I am thinking of replacing the pump, pump gasket, and pickup tube gasket and doing it again. Maybe #5 will be the charm???

WOW is all I can say.Do I need to buy a plane ticket and come and fix this for Ya!!!

Ron-

Appreciate the support . Looks like I may have been fixing the wrong thing the whole time. Now I need to get an oil pump and gaskets and see where we go from there. I am taking it to a show Wednesday so will be this weekend before I can even look.