Two days ago I had a problem with, I assume, one of the sprak plugs not firing. I think I'm right but yet to find out. Here's why... I was bored waiting for my wife to come home so I could go buy the new plugs (I'm watching the too young to leave alone kids hehe) and I decided to check out an OHV and what it looks like.

So I took off the cover and too my HORROR that things was totally jacked up looking. There was soot of some sort roughly an inch deep all around the springs from one side to the other side of the head. It was ugly. So I pulled the rockers off and got out the shop vac. scrapped away a large amount of soot and even though they still look nasty there is very little debri making its way around the head now.

My problem though is that when I went to put the rockers back on I HAVE NO IDEA what torque spec they should be hahahaha and I can't find crap on the internet so... Someone? anyone? tonight hopefully? Do you have any clue!?!?!?!?!?!?

For the 2.0 ohv rocker arm NUTS the torque is 22ft-lbs.I hope this what u wanted.OK

I came across the same info just earlier today and I'm gonna *try* that but it (the info) did note that the 22lb/ft was for aluminum heads and I don't know if mine are aluminum or not.?.?.?
I've taken the lash out and started the engine but it seems to run very rapid, as well as spray oil all over the front of the car hahahaha. So I'm gonna torque to 22 and put the covers on and give it a try. I'll post if this truly is correct. I'm crossing my fingers.

I tighten it down to 22 TQ and that's not it... arggghhh it seemed that it was stressing the engine alot to try and even turn over. In fact it never started.

Oddly enough 22 ftlbs seemed like alot when it came down to it. Heck it was compressing the springs WAY before the torque wrench clicked. and I mean WAY before.

I'm fairly convinced now that the 22 TQ was not for this head but the question is what the heck is???? I'm lost.

take it back apart. what you need to do is this sequence, and work on one cylender at a time

-turn the motor so the exaust valve is just starting to open. now you will set the intake valve. using your thumb and index finger, spin the pushrod back and forth and slowly tighten the adjuster nut down till you cannot easily spin the pushrod, then turn the adjuster an aditional 1/2 (one half) turn. now turn the motor so the intake valve is just starting to close, and repeat the process. do this for each cylender.

Great advice. Truly better than the Haynes manual described. In fact it said nothing even close. Other than put the rockers on and remove lash but no process as to do that. I'm heading out to do this... I'll report when I get back.

OK I did that and it seems like it's right. Now I'm not sure if it's minor adjustments or what but it's not running properly though. I can't help but think I've got the firing order messed up.

The car will hardly start up but if I use starter fluid it'll kick on and runn fine if I am using roughly 40 -50 percent of the gas pedal. Once I let it down it sort of flutters out (semi-roughly).?.?.? So I'm confused still I suppose.

I don't want to mislead any possible suggestions but it feels like the fuel pressue may be too low at idle... or like I said before the timing is off... I'm just not sure what process of elimination to find out what the issue is now. ARGGGH I'm an idiot.

After letting the engine run for awhile the timing is absolutely fine. I think maybe some oil had gotten in the gas when I kept cranking the engine with the cover off.

At the same time the engine is still hesitating just slightly. It's driveable, since I drove it. But I didn't drive it faster than 20 MPH because It just seemed to 'not right' to me. So I had a neighbor look at it. He's a GM Original Gansta' (not really but you got the point hehe) and he said it sounds like maybe I bent one or two of the pushrods. He said he couldn't be sure unless we took the head apart again... arggghhh So that's right you guessed it. I'm taking it apart again.

Needless to say though I will be putting it back together as Shark described hahaha

Curious does anyone know of other places to buy first gen parts? All I know is manta... anymore though.?.?.?

OK So I replaced the pushrods (5 were bent) and the car ran fine but then it died mysteriously when I came to a stop sign and ALL power was gone. Literally all... no lights nothing. Won't start. I pulled the battery and it's fine. Good volts and good cells.

What should I be assuming is the problem here???

Umm like the alternator or a bad ground wire would kill the power.I would do a voltage check on the alternator with a multimeter and truley identify the issue.The problem u have sounds simple and would do a check on the above and go from there.Also the starter has fusible links at the starter inline with the wiring,while this is not the problem in my opinion,if after checking the above and the alternator checks out good,check ur grounds for the battery and fuses.I think ur alter has prolly bit the dust.

I figured it might be the alternator but I didn't want to check that first because it would be harder to take out than the battery hahahaha I'm not exactly lazy but you get the point.
I'm pulling the alternator tommorrow and getting it tested at AutoZone. It would already be done but I worked a double shift yesterday and today I watch my kids in the morning and work in the evening. So... it's kind of like another double in a way. hehehe
The alternator is in probably the easiest of place to take out too. So it won't take long. I'll report when I finish.

I took out the alternator finally (it's hot as heck here in Missouri) and had it tested and it PASSED!!! good but I was confused as heck and dreading the thought of searching through miles of wire to find out why the car had no power.... Then I founf the problem right away... the battery cable had not been torqued down enough and was covered in corrosion... ARRRGGGHHH I'm absolutely retarded!

So I hooked it all back up and cleaned the connection and whamo! it all turned on! but i still have to take the starter off because I think I may have stressed it out with all the problems this month. Plus it's the original starter so it's time 21 years later HAHAHA. Guess that speaks higly of the Chevy components. So I'm replacing that and it should work fine. Quite the good news in my opinion.

The things u learn from here and experience are priceless!Glad to see things are what I expected.So that is about it for now from me.

Well I the thing is that the goround wire didn't look bad so I kind of wrote it off as not being the problem but when the alternator was fine I came back on here and was reread what you'd wrote hoping something would click. So I rechecked the ground and oddly enough it had a thin coat of corrossion across it which I guess is enough to not make a connection. Good thing for the internet hahaha Thanks Ron!

Always nice to see something sinking into ur thought process.I recently redid my battery cables both are new and cleaned my batt tray area and the post is on the forum here and the pics should be still there from the best of my knowledge.The cables I bought were almost as close to oem spec or factory look as I could find and only cost like 12bux or something.Glad to help when I can being my car is a restoration thing that is on going.