I was looking in my engine bay yesterday, and realized its actually pretty easy to make a CAI for a 2.0L with those Integra/Civic sets at the parts stores..
We have our carberatour-style filter box. It goes over the left-most cylinder and then into a rubber hose which connects with our crummy air boxes...
All you need to do is remove the rubber hose at the filter box inlet, and hook up one of those Integra/Civic bend pipes to go straight down, then attach the filter at the bottom...
Cheap and easy.
www.cardomain.com/id/stenger
theres mine. fender mounted.
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Yeah, but you got a 2.2...I got a 2.0...I'll get pics of what Im talkin about tomorrow...
well if it's the TBI than your can do the same thing i did.
well, actually... you can even it its Fuel Injected. just a matter of fashioning a adapter, and cutting or modifing a pipe to work.
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Okay, this is what Im talkin about:
2.0 OHC engine:
The air hose to be removed:
Air hose gone:
And bam! A straight shot to open air:
yea. all you need is that Elbow that i have. i had the ghetto carb style air cleaner too. but i went to the junk yard and swiped a elbow. then put a 3inch slicone sleeve on it, turned it towards the pas. headlight, removed my a/c refrigant holder, and put the pipe there. also made a brace so it don't slip and hit the alt. fan.
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Hmmm...not a bad idea, either!
lets compare (not to be dick)
his version...
My version...
the same steps can be made to do this, just mine cost a lil' more.
for those of you who've gotten the JBody Mag. you'll notice that this is a altered version of the how-to i wrote up for them.
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Im thinkin, the air wont be as cool through yours because your pipe runs right on top of the valve cover, which is freakin hot! But mine goes over just the minimal part with the plastic bit, and the elbow goes straight down to a height of about the bottom of the radiator, which is bound to be colder than behind the headlight like you have...
nope. being as there's a open hole where my i cut in the splash gaurd for air to come in, it's getting nice fresh cool air. and yes the valve cover gets hot... but after a 2hr drive, the cool air coming thru the pipe keeps it nice and cool. it gets little heat on it beleave it or not.
here's the problem i see with yours.
Your still using the stock air box. it's a big circle, there for air will sit inside that circle before it goes thru the t/b...
your still using factory tubing. which is ridgid. meaning theres gonna be some air turblance going thru. vs. the smooth path to the t/b elbow that i have. no ridges.
plastic/rubber takes to heat pretty eaisly.
your inlet where fresh air is coming thru is coming thru the raditor and past it. now, i think your smart enough to realize that the air is hotter by the raitor. there fore after about 20 minutes of driving, your just getting hot air.
unless your using a K&N air filter, your on a restrictive air filter. However the cone style filter i use has the wrap around filter and a filter inside the chrome housing. so there's 2 spots for air to come thru. and it's a hghi-flow vs. stock.
When your raditor fan kicks on it's just blowing more hot air into the tube as well.
Do this test. let your car run for about 10-20 minutes (or after a drive) don't turn off the motor and pop your hood. Place your hand in the spot where your air intake is now. Then move it into different spots. (i.e. where mine is, near the firewall, ect.) You'll notice that it being near the firewall is much cooler air temp. and when driving the fender mount is good too. (but i have no a/c equipment , so the canaster is gone, and the condeser as well). If you look thru the front mouth of my bumper you'll notice that it's open and you can see the motor mount. and thru the grill you'll see the intake. All that air from driving is going thru those holes going to the air intake. there fore not only is it getting a nice blast from the hole in the splash gaurd from the fender, but the front end as well. Oh yea, and on the 2.2 OHV the alt. blows some cool air around too because of the fan
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so try this. your way works good for a freebie. i did the same thing for about a month and realized that it just wasn't working to my likeings. I've gone thru many set ups. 3 inch straight pipe to the housing, cut and pointed downwards intake where your's is at, firewall, and now the fender mount. I found that i get the better throttle responce from how it is now. it revs better and defently gets more air this way as well.
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Aight then..any tips on mounting the pipe to the TBI?
god, am i gonna have to right up another How To on this?
lol...
the next time i do this im charging for it. lmmfao.
(sweet.. NWA is on sirius... wait. how to. sorry. back on track)
What you need....
Elbow from a 2.0 or 2.2L cavalier (as shown in my version)
PCV pipe connector (home depot)
3 inch hose clamps (at least 3)
Honda Civic short ram air intake (autozone/pep boys/ebay/where ever)
L bracket, peice of metal/alum. about 5-6inchs long. (hardware store)
Valve cover breather filter
take off all your old air cleaner system. MAKE sure to disconnect your air intake sensor, and valve breather hose.
Stuff a towel/sock/what ever into your TBI. and get out a cut off wheel/saw. cut the threaded studs down to where the hex is. do not cut the hex, or remove these. if you do you'll need a new tbi gasket. and there hard to get.
place the new TBI elbow onto the TBI unit. and turn it towards the driver side fender if you choice to place it there. and tighten the clamp that should come with it. it may take a bit of twisting to hit that special spot where it's all the way around the TBI, but it will connect.
connect your air temp sensor harness to the air temp sensor on the elbow. (make sure you have one)
then take your 3" PVC connecter and put it on the TBI Elbow. You may need to notch a lil outta the silcone boot to clear the air intake sensor. i had to do this. just don't slit the boot.
tighten down the hose clamp so that the boot is placed on the TBI Elbow and will not just pop off.
next add your intake tube. the 2 spouts on the intake tube are pressed up aginst my coolant res. but it's ok. make sure there plugged as well. the long end will go into the TBI Elbow boot, and the bend should be pointing down towards the bottom of the car clearing the belts and alt.
your ARE going to have to delete your A/C system to do this. or relocate the Canaster. But that canaster on the 2.2L needs to be removed. you'll see the intake pipe hitting it if you don't move it, and it can't fit where its suppost to with it still there. so gut it out. WARNING. THE CAN IS UNDER PRESSURE IF FULL! USE CAUTION WHEN REMOVING HOSeS! (the 2.0 OHC has it's can under the fender, so i think you'll be fine where it's at)
after removing that, (the 3 bolt brace that holds it in) you can either cut half of the plastic housing it rested in off, or leave it. i cut mine off to get more air. but in doing this you have to unbolt the fuel evapartor. Make sure that the fuel evap. has enough to sit on once you cut it. there's no other place to mount this.
once you've finished removing the A/c componet, attach your filter to the pipe.
then place your L bracket into the hose clamp so that part of it is under there. when you secure the clamp it will secure the L bracket.
next take that 5-6 inch long flat peice of alum/metal and connect it to the L brakcet. then run it to either the fender mount, or the core support. this will support the air intake from shaking loose, or hitting any belts/pulleys.
i think after that, your done.
if you do go with this remove the a/c compressor too. i mean why not? its added weight that you no longer need, since your a/c will not put out cold air on a hot day anymore. and don't worry. your heater will work as long as you have a heater core and blower motor . i just normally put mine of Bi-level, defrost, and vent to stay warm...
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oops. also connect the valve breather filter to the valve breather post. see picture if you have any questions, or Email me at Stenger41018 for request.
BTW. I do not build these for people unless there in my neighbor hood. so don't ask me to buy all this stuff and ship it to ya. it'd be cheaper for you to do it your self. i'd over charge your ass's for being lazy.
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Hehe okay, thanks! Deleteing Heat/AC is not an issue, since I dont have either
you don't have heat? that must suck...
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Only in the 8 months of winter here in Denver
ok now that we got the 2.0 tbi out of the way, how do you make a cold air intake for 2.0 ohc mpfi? i have looked on v6z24.com. i want to replace the whole pipe so its not the stock plastic crap.
i've never built a MPI set up before. but you could probably use the same thing. most people just modify a honda civic intake to work.
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its much easier if you look at it drib,
just put a piece of pipe straight out, angle it to the large space between engine and battery(where stock airbox sits, angle it down and let it sit, or you could do short ram: cut out the grill, run it to right where the stock airbox sits but angle it so it points directly at where the grill used to be we have it easy since it comes straight out of the intake manifold straight to the front of the body...
wicked
theres one... i'll go take some more here in a second. i need a cigg anyways, so it'll give me something to do. lol
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Making that Intake setup for the 2.0L TBI is of no use.
The TB plate is so small that it's getting plenty air as it is. Plus, CR and Engine Output is sooo low that making a Cold Air Intake is of no use.
The MPFI 2.0L would benefit from this more.
Trust me...I've had both a 2.0LTBI, and 2.0L Turbo...Also, we've run my TBI at the track with NO AIR CLEANER BOX on a very chilly night...and my best was a 17.7
The TBI's cannot benefit (much) from an Air intake setup.
1991 3.1L V6 Sunbird LE
15.365@88.52
Full Interior...3-Speed Automatic.
Satisfied Customer of:
POWERSHOP PORTING SERVICE
cooler air combust better.
nough said.
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a 98 Horsepower 8.5:1 CR TBI motor won't benefit from colder air.
ENOUGH said.
1991 3.1L V6 Sunbird LE
15.365@88.52
Full Interior...3-Speed Automatic.
Satisfied Customer of:
POWERSHOP PORTING SERVICE
