Just like the question above, I'm trying to take good care of that ecotec engine...

My wife's cav does quite a bit of city driving (and she does beat on it a little) and
does the things you would expect a non-car person to do(like running everything
in the car on a hot summer day ) and oil after 3-3.5k starts to look pretty dirty.
And this is Mobil 1 we are talking about here( though I should be happy this
stuff is protecting the engine) Any thoughts?

I'm running a plain ol' AC delco oil filter now, and also plan to change the air filter
at every oil change, instead of every other change.

I was also told to upgrade the oil filter to either AC delco gold/Napa gold or Wix....

Whats an ECOTEC?

I think this is in the wrong forum.

And- Mobil 1 is no different than any other blended oil available, don't expect anything super out of it just because its costs so much. Oil is oil is oil.

If you're running Mobil 1 oil, rest assured that your engine is going to be ok... I used to beat the hell out of my LD9 running only dino-juice in it, and I never had to take it to the dealer once in 90,000 miles....

Hell I only change the Mobil 1 in my GTO every 5000 miles.

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

no, it protects way better...

as far as OHC motors go, how hot are the air temps,? i found using a thincker oil stayed cleaner longer, ( im in south west GA, ) for example i use 15W-50 in my quad.

how ever i used 5W-30 with my 3.1, but that was a OHV motor and i was livig in WI at the time.

try 10w-30 M-1, see how well it lasts, rember 15w50 M-1 flows better at ZERO than conventonal 0W-20.


Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

I run 10 W 30 Mobil Synthetic Blend in my 2.2 OHV

I only run blend because i have a rear main seal leak and synthetic finds leaks quick as a bitch...

Mobil 1 is the only true synthetic on the market. (i work for an Exxon-Mobil Distributor)... All other brands have impurities... Mobil 1 uses Super Syn, and formulates its oil down to the atom... So picture dragging your feet down a gravel road... rough as a bitch, eh... now drag your foot down a freshly paved road... smooth and easier... its the same principle... Conventional (made from dinosaurs) oil is very rough down to the atom ... Mobil 1 Synthetic is not...

I burried my temp guage and had to drive that way for 5 miles... my engine was saved because of the Engine treatment TX-7 (polydyn) and the Mobil Semi-Synthetic Blend in my engine.

James Cahill wrote:Whats an ECOTEC?

I think this is in the wrong forum.

And- Mobil 1 is no different than any other blended oil available, don't expect anything super out of it just because its costs so much. Oil is oil is oil.

Yea, I forgot what forum I was in...

But it could hold true for any J engine....

I'm just trying to do what's best...and try to give it the best protection I can....

Quote:

no, it protects way better...

It certainly does...
against 350 degree+ oil temperatures, detonation, fuel washdown, and failure to observe regular oil change intervals.

Thing is... the guys who think they're doing good by running synthetic oil generally don't fall into any of the categories above. So it's an unnecessary expense.

Quote:

I only run blend because i have a rear main seal leak and synthetic finds leaks quick as a bitch...

I've changed many oil pan gakets on LT1 powered 92 and newer Corvettes because they leak. LT1 Vettes say "Mobil 1 only" right on the hood. The thing is, the gasket's exactly the same as the 86-89 Vettes and I've changed very few on those older cars. And the LT1 Firebird and Impala owners who don't use synthetic oils report no gasket failures. Hmmm...

-->Slow

Hmm...I don't think I have to worry about those things, But I figure if a few extra bucks
make the engine problem free that much longer..it should be worth it..

The weather is this area alone is enough reason the use it....

If you want to feel like you're babying the car by using Mobil1, then go for it. But there is no practical reason to do so.

Our fleet of school buses has vehicles with over 200k miles on the original engines. These are used in town and on highway, by all sorts of different drivers. I've got Caravan 2.4l engines with 200k, chevy smallblocks, Dodge V8 powerplants, Ford engines... all with large amounts of mileage due mainly to regular maintenance. Three of my own cars have over 200k. I've lived in Montana where temps in the winter are -40 and in the summer get to 100+. I live in New England now, where the moisture in the air always carries some degree of acidity and sulfur. I change my oil at 2500 miles, using Valvoline 10W30 dino juice and I haven't had a problem with engine longevity.

Quote:

But I figure if a few extra bucks make the engine problem free that much
longer..it should be worth it.

Simple comparison:
20,000 miles/ year * 5 years = 100000 miles
100000 miles / oil change every 2500 miles = 40 oil changes in 5 years.
40 oil changes * 4.5 qts/ change = 180 qts oil
180 qts oil * current price of $2.18 per quart = $392.40

Using Mobil1, currently $5.24 / qt at the same place I get Valvoline, and increasing oil change intervals to 3500 miles we get:

100000/ 3500 = 28 oil changes
28 changes * 4.5 qts/ change = 126 qts oil
126 qts oil * 5.24/ qt = $660.24
I don't think that's "a few extra bucks." If my insurance were almost $300 more than it had to I'd look for another insurance company.

FWIW, the oil is supposed to get dirty. The appearance of the oil gets darker as it's picking up comtaminants. If you're really worried, send a sample to a testing facility and wait for the results. You'll probably be surprised at what they say.

-->Slow