Okai... as i was driving to school i noticed an electrical burning smell as i entered the parking lot by the time i parked, the temperature sky rocketed and the check engine light popped up... so i shut the car off and opened the hood... smoke came off the fan... in between the radiator and the cooling fan. so i immediately called for a toe with my service... and the toe truck for somereason did not have wood blocks... so we had to hold my back fenders up to get it on with out scraping.
So when i pulled the fan off, the motor had seized... in the process it burned the rubber off the wires at the base of the van so that about an inch of each was exposed wire.
I grabbed a new fan at advance and mounted it... the radiator leaked a little bit of fluid but when i did my flush 2 months ago, i put a seal tablet in and i guess it sealed the leak... (when it was said and done and i started... and let it run, the level stayed right at the top of the radiator cap and the resivour stayed full)
so i hooked the fan up to the battery... it ran, was blowin the right way, all good times... i hooked it up to the factory wiring and .... nothing... i let it warm up to about 3 quarters on the gauge.... nothing... so tomorrow im going to advance and replace the relay... which on of the three on the passenger fender near the hood lever is it? i think its the one closest to the firewall but im not positive... the haynes manual doesnt say @!#$... =(...
also does anyone have a good how to on replacing the cooling temp sending unit... i have a 2.2 litre 93 cavy...
last question.. anything else i should replace... first imma try relay... then temp sending unit.... anything else to try if neither of those work?
thanks
Hi XsTreme
Fusible link C? goes to RED wire on the coolant relay.
Also check the 20Amp C/H fuse.
Alont
alont wrote:Hi XsTreme
Fusible link C? goes to RED wire on the coolant relay.
Also check the 20Amp C/H fuse.
Alont
what else is on fusible link C... do ya know? that way i know what to trouble shoot back to...
an update
Ive changed the fan
the relay
the coolent temp sender
the thermostat (this one two months ago)...
Nothin... right now i have the hot wire ran to the battery with a fuse in the middle... and when i park... i pop the hood and pull the fuse...
im thinkin of running a relay to keep the fan powered on ignition
Hi Xstreme
I am away from all my info at the moment but you could just put a new fusible link from the battery to a new RED wire. The existing wire is normally hot (powered all the time), so the circuit would be as before.
Remove the existing RED wire feed to the coolant relay connector block and insulate. then feed the other end of the wire into a new blade connector female in the existing coolant relay block.
Just insulate the red wire you removed from this position.
The system should then work correctly
I don't think-I am guessing here, that the fusible link feeds anything else.
I am sure someone will help and jump in if I am wrong
Hope you fix it anyways
Alont
alont wrote:Hi Xstreme
I am away from all my info at the moment but you could just put a new fusible link from the battery to a new RED wire. The existing wire is normally hot (powered all the time), so the circuit would be as before.
Remove the existing RED wire feed to the coolant relay connector block and insulate. then feed the other end of the wire into a new blade connector female in the existing coolant relay block.
Just insulate the red wire you removed from this position.
The system should then work correctly
I don't think-I am guessing here, that the fusible link feeds anything else.
I am sure someone will help and jump in if I am wrong
Hope you fix it anyways
Alont
Alright well the problem is solved....
The worst case senerio happened in my case....
I went to work today and pulled up on the Alldata the wire diagram on the cooling fan....
The relay is the one on the driver side next to the battery....
The red wire runs to the fuseable link... the test light came on... GOOD
The brown wire runs to the ac/heat fuse ... the test light came on ... GOOD
The black wire with red stripe runs to the fan itself
Now we come to the Green wire...
This one runs to the blower control module... located within the ECM....
so i ran it to operating temp to where the fan should come on... i even waited till three quarter on the gauge... ..... Nothin on the test light ... BLOWN.....
so when the fan locked up... it blew the relay and the module in the ECM....
so i ran a new relay and bypassed the green wire so that the fan comes on, on ignition and runs 24/7 while engine is running...
problem seems solved now... i drove for 30 minutes and the temp never exceeded 1 quarter on the gauge....
2g @ heart wrote:good fix.
If it were only that easy... haha
i found that i also ... somewhere along the line... blew a hole in the metal line under the thermostat that runs to the heater core hose.... so when i turn the heat on... i get antifreeze everywhere....
imma take it in to a radiator shop monday to have that line and the main AC line off the evap replaced... (i dont feel like having to track down new hoses for em myself... and then having to do the replacing... )
Rats to antifreeze and electrons!
My cooling fan seized a day after I bought my first 93 Cav, as soon as I came off the freeway everything went up.
Only needed a new fan motor.
After reading your latest discovery I realize how lucky I was.
Hope Monday sees the tide turning and everything working as it should
Alont
i dont know what to say except, "give me a FREE tow" thats Bull@!#$t how that guy made u do his job. its HIS responsability to keep your car unharmed, not yours.
-94Custom
<img src="http://www.bstuff.com/uploads/post-14-1121828144.jpg">
Well, I'm glad to see you've got it somewhat back on the road.
He called me while I was on the road in a HUMVEE on Fri mid-day, and then several more times that day. I was so upset I couldn't pinpoint the problem without a wiring diagram in my hand.
No, I can't offer on demand assistance to everyone, so please don't ask
BTW- you can use a street rod framerail trans cooler if you want. I got mine from Summit for like $40.
James Cahill wrote:Well, I'm glad to see you've got it somewhat back on the road.
He called me while I was on the road in a HUMVEE on Fri mid-day, and then several more times that day. I was so upset I couldn't pinpoint the problem without a wiring diagram in my hand.
No, I can't offer on demand assistance to everyone, so please don't ask
BTW- you can use a street rod framerail trans cooler if you want. I got mine from Summit for like $40.
Well the All data diagram told me everything i needed to know
i blew the relay, and the module in the ECM... so i just cut the relay out and put in a standard relay in and grounded it to the chassis... so instead of getting ground fromt the ECM to turn the fan on or off... now its on with the key in the ignition turned on... thats better because my temp guage isnt goin past 1/4th way...
Does that trans cooler come with the fittings... when i pull my intake out i can get to both of the trans fittings relativly easily
The one I ordered had AN fittings, but you can get it with hose barbs if you want. Summit probably has 50 or 60 different varieties of trans coolers to pick from.
James Cahill wrote:The one I ordered had AN fittings, but you can get it with hose barbs if you want. Summit probably has 50 or 60 different varieties of trans coolers to pick from.
I'd like fittings that will plug in to the lower trans fitting on the radiator... thats gonna be my easiest route...
I thinks its a 3/8" NPT fitting, but its probably metric. I used an NPT to AN adapter, but the threads were just a touch off, so it wouldn't thread in all the way.
