haveing a real bitch trying to time this thing. all was running good then she started to smoke had a error code 43 turned out I needed a new knock sensor, pick up coil and a ignition module. Long story short I can not get the thing to run properly. I understand that the turbo engines work with an average timeing between plug1 and 4(time pklug one then plug 4 add the two then devide by two to get your average then subtract 8, the remaining # is the amount of digrees the engine needs to be adjusted. I have done this many a times, when it does run good no spitting or sputtering it has abselutly no power.
Does the fact that the engine is bored 30 over have anything to do with this.\
I have no further error codes other than a 44 (exaughst running lean) I asume once the timming is corrected this will be rectified
are you running prem gas ?
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**Wisconsin J's!**
1992 Chevy Cavy - Some Mods...
1997 Chevy Cavy - Intake
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Btchinj@hotmail.com & Btchinj@yahoo.com
Quote:
understand that the turbo engines work with an average timeing between plug1 and 4(time pklug one then plug 4 add the two then devide by two to get your average then subtract 8,
Many of GM's 4 cylinder engines use the "averaging method" for timing. It's because the cams bounce so much it's tough to get an accurate reading on just #1 cylinder. But I've never heard of using the method you describe. What would you subtract 8 degrees from the averaged value?
The GM schools taught us to time from the coil wire. With the light connected to the coil wire, it's easy to see the spark occur at different times in relation to the crank. position. You "average" the timing by setting the distributor so most of the spark pulses occur at the right time.
Retarded spark timing can show up as a lean condition.
-->Slow
I am running prem gas only i also run octane booster every other tank. I got this method out of the haynes and chilton jbody manuals.
Trevor MacDonald wrote:I am running prem gas only i also run octane booster every other tank. I got this method out of the haynes and chilton jbody manuals.
That is your problem. Those are crap. Get the real manual you can buy them on ebay or probobly get them from your local downtown libray. The method "slow" posted is correct.. either time off one wire like number one or ideall use the coil wire as the pulses will be more frequent.
ALSO! The GM Manual states that the timing should be performed with the ECM in diag mode... Shannen will correct me with the proper name.. but you ground the diag pin in the ALDL connector just like you were going to pull codes.. a paperclip or a "code key" is fine. You want to make sure you have the car up to operating temp FIRST in normal running mode, get it good and warm, drive around for a while. Then shut it down, groudn the connector out, and restart it. This removes any ECM advance, or idle correction, etc etc. THEN time it.
The timing specs should be on teh hood. I'm suprised but the actual number escapes me off hand.. I THINK it's 8 degrees BTDC? Either way - it's the "big" line on the timing cover, you have the later style so it should be plastic and easy to read... Line up the notch on teh crank pulley with that.. turn the distributor to match it up right. On every 2.0 I've ever seen, a factory tech has "scored" the cam carrier and distributor to show where it was timed too stock and the proper timing SHOULD be very close to that.
I have already done all of this! yes I cross over the wires to put it in to timming mode. I can time it and check it two days later and it will be out by 20 degrees?????
Trevor MacDonald wrote:I have already done all of this! yes I cross over the wires to put it in to timming mode. I can time it and check it two days later and it will be out by 20 degrees?????
Cross over the wires? I'm hoping you're meaning you do precisely as I said and not something different. You don't "Cross wires" you "ground pins".
You do have to make sure the engine is at full operatin temp. If you've done everything as I said, then you should have no problems timing it.
If you're still having problem then you have a bad part. I'd replace your ignition module to start. You can have it checked out at most parts stores as well.
yes pins are grounded! i have even used the diag. tool as the manual says you can do.
engine is at running temp. i have replaced the distributor, the pick up coil and the ignition module. All have been tested and are working properly.
As I said I have no problem timeing it. The thing is that every couple of days it needs to be done again!
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