Im wondering what size pipe and resonator to go with....Im thinking:

3" pipe from head reduced to 2.5" to ??" resonator and highflow cat to a nismo muffler......Trying to achieve a skyline sound.....any ideas?

OK....... why are you going 3" 20 2.5" just go with 3 inches all the way back. and if you whant the Skyline sound get a skyline...ok

DOHC-TURBO4DOOR.....comming soon to a street near you!!!

a skyline has a straight 6 in it. a 4 cyl will never sound like a 6 cyl.

the downpipe is already 2.5", and if yours is in good shape, dont bother changing it. get a high flow cat and a magnaflow muffler, 2.5" all the way back, and you will be fine. it will go better and sound pretty cool.

I don't know about the '88 and up down pipes but my '87 had a 2 1/8" one. If you're going to add more power in the future I'd go to a 3" down pipe. Definitely get a high flow cat as the stock dual bed unit is the absolute worst flowing type there is.
As far as the rest of the exhaust I'd use at least 2 1/2"pipe. For muffler selection you're on your own to capture the "Skyline" sound.
I have dual Walker Dynomax turbos (I have the long case ones that used to be called "Hemi super turbo mufflers") and I'm amazed at the growl that comes out of them! I like my exhaust on the quieter end of things though. To each their own.

Tony


Tony
1987 Sunbird GT turbo convert
Ported intake, Fiero 53 MM TB, 52 lb inj, ported and flowed head, tube header, Mitsu TD06, ARP rod
bolts/head studs, adj cam sprocket, 4" x 12" x 31" FMIC, Paxton AFPR, modified 125 trans/LSD
unit/3.42's, custom chip tuning, Alky Control Methanol injection
13.61 ET at 101.44 mph, 262 WHP/350WTQ

2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP roadster, 2.0 turbo w/GMPP exh, CAI and turbo upgrade, 290 hp/325 ft lbs

1969 Olds 442 convert
400 Eng, 200-4R trans, 3.73 posi, power everything, OAI

On my car the down pipe is a weak 2 1/4" .....Ide like to go 3 all the way with a high-flow cat and nismo muffler. The way my car car sounds right now with a stock exhaust/cat and cherrybomb setup could easily pass for a V6 sound. Its just as loud as some 350 small blocks that Ive raced. I think the nismo muffler will give me the sound im looking for.

Oh man....... is all i gotta say \

DOHC-TURBO4DOOR.....comming soon to a street near you!!!

um lol@skyline sound. Ricer.
Resonators = queer.

Run all 3". Do what I did, take the easy way out and run 3" to an electronic dump pipe, and run stock exhaust behind it. Best of both worlds, awesome sound/performance open, quiet and sleeper closed.

Slightly outdated pics but I did all this this year..

Protonus... i like the set up. im gonna try a set up like when i put the DOHC in my bird.
AND...... jordan plz dont discrace all sunbirds by going for that "skyline" sound!!!!


PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!!!!

DOHC-TURBO4DOOR.....comming soon to a street near YOU!!!

Thats a wicked set-up protonus! but you cant call me rice for trying to achieve a one of a kind sound. Ide be rice if I was braging about stock exhaust ....haha ...and im not going to use a resonator ........How did you hook up the electronic dump? Im impressed man.

Ryoko-Bird92..........If anyone is a disgrace to sunbirds its you with an automatic L4 N/A 4-door beater.

people wonder why flaming starts?????

Dude im not gonna even start anything.

i heart protonuts setup!


1st 1st gen on air.....

Ryoko-Bird92
maybe you aint that bad after all.... haha

Protonus
How much did your exhaust setup cost to fabricate.

Im not a bad guy at all.

DOHC-TURBO4DOOR.....comming soon to a street near YOU!!!

jordan kruger wrote:Thats a wicked set-up protonus! but you cant call me rice for trying to achieve a one of a kind sound. Ide be rice if I was braging about stock exhaust ....haha ...and im not going to use a resonator ........How did you hook up the electronic dump? Im impressed man.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/

That is the place I bought the cut out from, direct from the manufactuer. It comes with the wiring, switch, etc. My switch is in what woud be my center console if I had one per se. Poked the wire thru one of the grommits in the firewall that I shove everything thru near the brake pedal. simple.

What was hard was making it all fit together.. tight spaces. It's one of the reason I stuck with stock exhaust behidn the subframe brace. The subframe brace to sway bar clearance is only only like 3.5"!

jordan kruger wrote:Protonus
How much did your exhaust setup cost to fabricate.

Next to nothing. Bought some 3" UBENDS from Summit racing, I think they're 25 bucks each. Cut them with my metal chop saw. Welded them together with my MIG. Bought some header wrap from summit, wrapped the pipe, painted it. Welded a "cut out pipe" which I got with the QTEC to the pipe and then welded adaptors to go down to 2 1/4" stock exhaust. The QTEC is the 3" model and I got it with a cut out pipe for like 200. So I guess for just the downpipe itself I probobly spent about $350ish TOTAL, including everything on it. Bought the flange, and exhaust donut for my T3 from http://www.turbosunleashed.com which is a dodge turbo store which is what I run on my car. I have a 3 " ceramic coated swingvalve housing too, so it's 3" right off the turbo. Made a big difference. Looks like this.




The one I had stock with this T3 is the SMALLEST one. The aftermarket one I have is the one on the right, the LARGEST one. Remember I have a T3 though, not a T25 like stock.

Didn't Dan help you out with that? Or was it just the charge pipes?

Either way, next time we go anywhere together, you'll be able to hear your phone ring

James Cahill wrote:Didn't Dan help you out with that? Or was it just the charge pipes?

Either way, next time we go anywhere together, you'll be able to hear your phone ring

Haha yeah. Though the cut out leaks a bit, I have no cat, and my muffler is a super turbo.. so it's still "relativly" loud when closed. What it does nearly eliminate is turbo whistle/whine. It's almost entirely gone with the dump closed.

And no, Dan only helped with the charge pipes. He was instrumental in their design and routing. he cut them for me on his metal chop saw at my house. I then welded them, and painted them, and hooked em all up.

After I saw how awesome his chop saw was, I bought one too, same one though uninteionally. it makes making stuff out of pipe SO much easier especially for welding as the ends are always mint.

Nice job on your exhaust Jim. Is that thing running now or what? Someday we should compare notes and see which one of us has blown more money on his car. The "winner" gets to commit Hari Kari in front of the loser. Ha ha ha.

Tony


Tony
1987 Sunbird GT turbo convert
Ported intake, Fiero 53 MM TB, 52 lb inj, ported and flowed head, tube header, Mitsu TD06, ARP rod
bolts/head studs, adj cam sprocket, 4" x 12" x 31" FMIC, Paxton AFPR, modified 125 trans/LSD
unit/3.42's, custom chip tuning, Alky Control Methanol injection
13.61 ET at 101.44 mph, 262 WHP/350WTQ

2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP roadster, 2.0 turbo w/GMPP exh, CAI and turbo upgrade, 290 hp/325 ft lbs

1969 Olds 442 convert
400 Eng, 200-4R trans, 3.73 posi, power everything, OAI

Not to start anything, but I love how you say "I'm looking for a one of a kind sound.... exactly like a skyline."

You aren't going to get that "skyline sound" without adding a nice intercooler set-up and larger charge pipes, an intake... all that mumby jumbo so you can hear the turbo whine more. It helps me a little bit that I actually have a ball bearing turbo off a skyline... lol...

If you really want to build your set-up for a turbo 6 sound, you are going to need a fat exhaust system with a glass pack on the end and nothing else, plus you will need more boost, bigger turbo, all that junk.

I'll put up a sound clip of my car when I get it running tonight and again next week when the equal length turbo header is on and the 40mm HKS dumped external wastegate.



Cardomain|Myspace

Exhaust pipe diameters, turbos, and catalytic converters:

Hotter exhaust gasses need larger diameter pipe. As a gas heats it expands and occupies more volume.
Cooler exhaust gasses need smaller diameter pipe. As a gas cools it contracts and occupies less volume.

Ever notice on later GM cars how the pipe immediately after the cat is at least the same size as the pipe going into the cat?
Ever notice how installing a cat-back usually means installing larger pipes as well as a less restrictive muffler?

Turbos remove heat from exhaust. Catalytic converters add heat. Mufflers remove heat. If using different diameters of pipe to build the complete system, it makes more sense to use 2 1/2" or 2 3/4" from turbo to cat, then 1/4" to 1/2" larger diameter pipe from cat to muffler, and (depending on position of muffler) dropping pipe size back down 1/4" to 1/2" diameter for the tailpipe. On the 'bird I've seen 3" pipe back to the bend over the rear axle which was necked down to 2 1/2" to get over the rear axle and to the muffler. Probably not ideal but still better than stock.

HTH
-->Slow

slowolej wrote:Exhaust pipe diameters, turbos, and catalytic converters:

Hotter exhaust gasses need larger diameter pipe. As a gas heats it expands and occupies more volume.
Cooler exhaust gasses need smaller diameter pipe. As a gas cools it contracts and occupies less volume.

Ever notice on later GM cars how the pipe immediately after the cat is at least the same size as the pipe going into the cat?
Ever notice how installing a cat-back usually means installing larger pipes as well as a less restrictive muffler?

Turbos remove heat from exhaust. Catalytic converters add heat. Mufflers remove heat. If using different diameters of pipe to build the complete system, it makes more sense to use 2 1/2" or 2 3/4" from turbo to cat, then 1/4" to 1/2" larger diameter pipe from cat to muffler, and (depending on position of muffler) dropping pipe size back down 1/4" to 1/2" diameter for the tailpipe. On the 'bird I've seen 3" pipe back to the bend over the rear axle which was necked down to 2 1/2" to get over the rear axle and to the muffler. Probably not ideal but still better than stock.

HTH
-->Slow

turbo's remove heat? this is news to me!
turbo's create heat!


1st 1st gen on air.....

^^thats defently true^^


**changes are here**

Turbos remove heat. Really. Truly. That's what makes 'em "go." It's not exhaust flow alone, that would never work. Using exhaust flow alone to spin a fan or turbine to pump more air into the engine is kind of like, well, plugging an extension cord into itself to make electricity. Perpetual motion, turning lead into gold, that kind of stuff.

Pipes get hot after turbo, damn hot, no kidding. But take the ole infra-red thermometer and measure manifold temp vs downpipe temp. What you're getting is residual fuel burning in the exhaust and turbo housing and just a "whole lot more" exhaust heat than NA. Gotta wonder why factory turbo cars use stainless steel or even Iconel exhaust valves... waay, way hot exhaust leaving the chamber.

-->Slow

You know, I tried to type something like that maybe an hour ago..... but I couldn't put it to words... haha.. good work.



Cardomain|Myspace

Ryan (1REDRY) wrote:^^thats defently true^^

Nope. "Slow" is right. Turbos absorb exhaust energy. That results in a loss of heat, which as he mentioned is VERY easy to notice (when you see a turbo manifold and exhaust housing glow red, the downpipe is normally dark. This is simple visual proof). This also results in a loss of exhaust velocity, and exhaust sound (the turbo acts as a muffler).

IF you think otherwise, you just need to look with a thermometer as suggested. They often drop the temperature 300 degrees or more, which is why it is suggested to put EGT gauges in the manifold for more "true" EGT readings.

Thanks for playing though

Quote:

when you see a turbo manifold and exhaust housing glow red, the downpipe is normally dark. This is simple visual proof

I don't know a lot of people lucky enough to have had this experience. You're one of the few, actually.

-->Slow