It seems as if it started happening over night, I start my car and rev it and there is a ping..it is timing related because when I retard the timing with the distributor the pinging happens at a lower rev. .....The odd thing is when the timing is bang on....I can steadily accelerate at 3/4 throttle.....but as soon as Ive got it floored the pinging happens and it restrictes my car from going any faster..... I have a brand new distributor and cap, new NGK platinum plugs, New NGK racing wires, Im using the correct 91octane fuel grade....and the timing is bang on.........I dont get it!.....could it be my EGR?

i'd consider removin the platinum plugs 1st of all, 2nd of all is it a pinging a knocking or detonation, if you stay out of boost while you accellerate does it still happen?


1st 1st gen on air.....

Theres nothing wrong with platinum plugs......obviously not the best in the world....but they still spark......Its definitely a pinging......because it sounds like valve tap only over one cylinder.....the pinging happens on take off......under torque, the wierd part is it seems like it has gone away then you hit full boost and the pinging starts and restricts the car from going any faster.....could it be an issue with a pushrod or something?....I noticed something kinda weird in the 3rd cylinder when I pulled the plug, The plug was covered in gas.....as if it hasent been firing.....but i have a new distributor and plugs....

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could it be an issue with a pushrod or something?

No, because OHC engines don't use pushrods. If you mean the connecting rod, it doesn't really sound like that's your problem to me. As far as your 3rd plug, you might just want to put a new one in and see if that makes a difference. plugs aren't that expensive

Ive replaced all the plugs....could it be an ignition problem, I cant see it just deciding to shut down one cylinder.....its odd.

Bad plug wire?

i'd check the plug wires and i would run nothing but 2 range colder NKG plugs, or delco.... trust me on this!


1st 1st gen on air.....

you said you're using platinums. As suggested get them out of there. Get this plug:
AC DELCO R42XLS. That is the only plug I'd consider using.

You said you're running 91 octane. try 93, see if it goes away, or use an octane booster. would help narrow this down.

How many miles do you have on the engine?

Is your check engine light on?

Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key to ON before you start it?

Have you had any recent work or mods to the car?

welp, tomorrow night Im going to see if that plug is sparking.....I dont think this is a fuel issue.....the motor runs fine with the recommended 91 octane. It just seems as if there is a pinging in only one cylinder.....so I think its spark....It cant be the distributor, because I just put a new one on ( attempt at getting rid of ping ).....The wires shouldnt be an issue though, because I just put new NGK racing wires on ( before the pinging began ) .....I even changed my connecting rod bearings to get rid of the pinging sound because I thought I spun a bearing, The pinging didnt start as soon as I changed anything though.....it honestly happened over night.

Please answer these 4 other questions in my first post first, because they are important here.

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How many miles do you have on the engine?

Is your check engine light on?

Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key to ON before you start it?

Have you had any recent work or mods to the car?

I realize it may NORMALLY run fine on 91 but you may have a bad tank of fuel etc. Octane booster or higher octane gas would help you pinpoint the problem. If it's truly ping (preignition) then higher octane gas SHOULD get rid of it. If it does not, then you probobly have a DIFFERENT problem that may sound like ping.

Some other things to check would be for correct spark plug wire routing on the distributor cap. The caps are often marked with the wire positions but they are wrong! Check a service manual for the correct ones.

When you did the distribtutor did you replace the rotor too?

Because I can't hear what you're hearing I can't tell if it's something else. Check the valve train. Pop the valve cover off, and the whole dang thing is exposed.. look for anything out of the ordinary. Good time to replace your valve cover gasket witha perma seal one (lookat my registry for part number)

Before going crazy trying to outguess or outspend the problem, try some basic diagnosis. First, assume nothing. Don't believe the plug wires are good until they're proven good. Don't believe the distrubitor cap is fine until it's proven fine. As a real diagnostic step, try to determine which cylinder is causing the problem. Remove and reinstall one plug wire at a time to see if the problem disappears. Then try to disconnect one injector at a time to see if it's an injector noise. If the problem exists with a plug wire and injector disconnected, then you get to stop wasting your time chasing driveability and start diagnosing a mechanical problem. Use a vacuum gauge to watch for faulty valves or cam. Use a screwdriver, crowbar, or mechanic's stethoscope to listen to the engine for mechanical noises. Protonus also made some good suggestions. Whatever you do, stop guessing! Guessing will frustrate you while making the local parts guys very happy.

BTW, some types of platinum plugs have no place in a turbocharged engine.

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I noticed something kinda weird in the 3rd cylinder when I pulled the plug, The plug was covered in gas.....as if it hasent been firing.....but i have a new distributor and plugs....

Ok, time for Internal Combustion 101. There are three elements required to make an engine run. (1) Fuel, (2) Spark, and (3) Compression. Sorry, but 2 out of 3 is a loser. Use a compression gauge to check for compression.

-->Slow

great tips!....I checked for a spark in the cylinder which I thought was the problem, and its sparking perfectly.....I didnt get around to checking my other plugs but I will tomorrow....Ive got a mech looking at it tomorrow.....To give you an idea of where the problem is......it seems to be a ping over the 3rd cylinder ( second to the left of the distributor )...
My motor has exaclty 199,850 kms on it ( not 200,000 hahaha )
My check motor light hasent come on....it flashes along with the rest of my guage display on start-up...I figure thats normal.....it always has. I havent tried leaving the key on without starting it......Im guessing the guage should not be lit up when the key is on but the car isnt started....?.......
On another note......Would anyone happen to know the where-abouts of the BOV on this car.....Im sure its some kind of recirculatory BOV (not atmoshepherical) ....I hear it but I dont see it....

no blow off valve of any sorts. they run low boost stock, so it realy isnt needed. its easy enough to put one on

Im not really sure how......I know you tap it into the turbo pipe but where does the air line run to......the boost solenoid?

Well well well........turns out I blew my head gasket.......I blew it between cylinder 3 and 4 and my timing is a little off.

I cant wait....Im getting a buddy at Lake performance racing to do machine my head and re-assemble it......This motor is amazing.....It was only running on 2 1/2 cylinders due to the wasted compression (between cylinder 3 and 4) and it still felt quick......Im anxious to drive it after all the work Ive done......I may do the valves since the head is off.
Everything Ive done to the motor :
-New clutch
-Distributor and cap
-Thermostat
-Polyurethane mounts
-Spark plugs and wires
-Fuel filter
-Gone synthetic with 10% lucas synthetic additive
-Connecting rod bearings
-Wastegate actuator (10psi)

Better pay attention to the bottom end before going crazy. It's not uncommon to lose a head gasket, fix it, then lose a bearing. The head gasket failed for a reason. It's like a fuse, and if you just replace it with a better gasket something else may easily let go.

-->Slow

Ya, Ive taken that into account. But I just put brand new connecting rod bearings in...and the cranks bearings were perfectly fine. Ill probably just use the recommended fel - pro head gasket.....unfortunatly I have to get a new head because we've discovered a 1/4" crack at every intake port

head gasket and cracked head?
I would start trying to improve upon your cooling system.



Cardomain|Myspace

Ya....I have a turbo talon sidemount intercooler that I still need to install....Ive also thought of water injection.

Jordan,not a intercooler your cooling system, and trust me its not hard at ALL to crack a head and pop a HG. a intercooler is the last thing you whana put on bro untill you find out whats wrong and fix it, its will just make things worse.

TURBO4DOOR.....comming soon to a street near you!!!!

An intercooler will still help ( Ide rather cold air enter the motor )......along with a colder thermostat.

My sunbird blew the head gasket between 3 and 4 also. I was driving down the road and all the sudden my car was on 2 cylinders. I would suggest having your machinist measure your old head and also your new head to make sure they are the close to the same thickness. If you get a reman head it could have been milled. I had mine milled down and now I suspect it has altered my valve timing. You might also want to look into why you blew your gasket and cracked your head before you put a lot of money into that car, you don't want to pump up the top end because your bottom end might not be in order since you have that many miles on it.





You can't outrun the radio.

Ive had a good look at the bottom end and its mint......I replaced the connecting rod bearings and everything else looks perfect......I got a new head through deckers......and Im extremely impressed.....the car has never been so powerful! I think the main issue I have is too much heat......and intercooler and water injection would take care of that ......I dont plan on running any more boost....so time to start cooling things down.

I am telling you... upgrade the cooling system if you plan on makng any power.. and no I am not talking about intercooling it. Although an intercooler will help keep you from detonating, your cooling system will help to save your headgasket and your whole engine.

I have a radiator from a 1990 automatic V6 ford SUV and modified everything for it to fit, then a modified thermostats with a 160 degree GNX spring, modified coolant outlet and a custom overflow system. I mounted an aftermarket fan on the front with the blade switched around and a custom 170 degree electronic thermostat/rellay system in reverse polarity for more turbo room. All of this also made it easier to fit the intercooler in.




Cardomain|Myspace