hey guys i was on mantapart site and saw they have a big rear sway bar, says it will make it oversteer more. well for my race car thats what i am looking for. will it make the much of a difference or should i play with caster/camber more
Mantapart sucks. I asked for pics, or even a description of how that adjustable bar worked, and they never wanted to give it up. They told me I had to buy it to see how it worked. You would be better off buying the Addco bar, or even using a bar off an FE3 equipped car. You could even double up the bar with an internal bar from a Beretta. None of the bars discussed here will make the car oversteer more. It will make it understeer less, but it will never cross the nuetral plane. That can only be done with tire pressures, type of tire, and alignment. Trust me, I've tried.
Though my experience with Mantapart is a bit different than James, I'd go with a 1" diameter Addco rear bar as suggested. 2nd gens push like a freight train, until you get the back end really tightened up, add a bit of camber up front, sort out shock valving, and like he said tires, pressures, etc.
Three years of oval racing, and it took over a year to get my cavy where I could tune the oversteer in and out on corner entry, with tire pressure. Also a simple four or six point roll bar helps stiffen the unibody up a bunch. That will yield good results when trying to loosen up rear.
We had good results using a Beretta GTZ FE7 front roll bar in our Cavy, but it was completely gutted on the inside.
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Project S-Bird
these cars are all gutted run racing rubber 215/60/d13 american racer tires. 8 point full cage custom frame laid in. 2.2 carb'd
Is the stock rear beam/ axle required? Can you run coil overs?
Reply with a link to your series rules.
Here's a pic of a front Beretta GTZ bar. It's light and as about as stiff as you need to go with a gutted J. You'll have to find the bar in a salvage yard. The rest of the attachment parts, according to James, are still available through GM.
http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/viewtopic.php?t=80803
I tried several front springs and liked Beretta Eibachs the best. I cut 3/4 of a coil off them for oval racing.
Here they are cut and squished a bit more for my shortened struts as a drag racing set-up.
The 1" Addco rear bar you can buy through Jegs.
I have three or four sets of cut rear springs, if you need some spares email me off my profile. I believe one set is a cut Eibachs. With a 1" rear bar, cut stocker rear springs (really short) are plenty stiff. Try a set of 1043 Afco Street Stock Shocks for the rear. They're a bit shorter than stock and will hold the cut springs in place.
James Cahill wrote
Quote:
You could even double up the bar with an internal bar from a Beretta
How well does that work? I had thought about doing that before with my sunbird but didn't know if both of the bars would fit back there. I upgraded my swaybars so I have the Sunbird GT 28mm up front, and the 19mm or 20mm(not sure which one) in the rear. Will adding the Beretta bar do anything???
Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!
2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!
AFAIK, you have to use both the FE3 and FE7 bars and do a small mod to two of the mounting brackets, although I'm not sure if its the FE3 or FE7 bracket. I remember someone doing it on a 2nd gen at one point using all factory parts, but I have no memory as to when or who it was (I also know jaz71085 from v6z24 did a similar setup with custom brackets and two external bars) Search around on the Beretta boards for pics and more info.
