alright so i have a cam from daytona cams. 440 lift 270 duration. 2.2 bottom end, 2.0 head shaved .050 and huge ports for higher rpm stuff. i found eagle rods, that is easy. but what about pistons i see them from mantapart. but wiseco makes them for a 2.2 ecotec will they work in the ohv or do i call ross for custom stuff. we had a stock bottom end in it last week but now it is only showing 100lbs of compression. should be hgiher with the head work and such. pulled the head off and the pistons can be moved int eh bores quite a way. so i figure the higher compression killed the bottom end. so we are going to drop a lower mileage bottom end in to see if it will hold up. we will be building a bottom end shortly as the spondsors pay for it.
also we have to run a carb and distributor so we have a guy that custom builds an intake and modifies a distributor for us. it is a weber 32/36 carb with an upgraded pump and jets.
thanks for the help guys
let me get this straight......
You have a carburated, N/A 2.2 ohv that you are trying to make a lot of power with... and you are building a forged bottom end without nitrous, boost or really high compression?
A compression test is showing 100psi in all four cylinders? You "made" a distributor work on a previously DIS engine with the cam in the block? All of this and you don't know if ecotec pistons will work in your engine......
I call BS until you post pictures.
My appologies if I am wrong.
Cardomain|
Myspace
i am insulted! i will post pictures tomorrow night. i am a graduate of hi perf. college and an ase certified tech. i knwo what i am taking about the intake is made to work witha holley 5200 carb or a holley 350 depending on division. we have to run a carb though. the distributor is from a 1983 cav and is extended 4 inches to clear hte head. we use aftermakret bottom end because of the increased compression and teh amount of rpm for extended periods of time. we have blown so many stock bottom ends by throwing the #3 rod. ill post the pics and want the apology
There aren't too many engines with similar dimensions to ours. I can't remember the list of 'em I found after an hour or two in the sealed power/ federal mogul books. The Eco engine wasn't included because the book was too old.
Engine killed due to high compression? What compression ratio? I'm using a stock bottom end with a non intercooled turbo without detonation, but timing is really turned down from stock when the pressure's up.
There's a list of different OE 2.2 pistons around. Look for the the ny jbodies LN2 link. Some of them have slightly thinner decks and shorter skirts and probably won't live as long under severe loading.
The 2.0 crank is smaller and will allow longer rods. Is it worth the decrease in displacement? Depends on how high you want to run for rpm. Moving the torque peak up 1000 rpm increases power by about 20% so it may be possible to lose a little but gain it all back. Check cams and springs for expected power levels. Making power up high should be complemented by shorter runner intake manifolds with a larger plenum ( 1.5 to 2.0 X engine displacement ) and large cross section runners. I'm sure your intake guy knows this. The downside is that he has to balance the intake style with the signals needed at the carb, unlike efi.
You're using the 93 style oil pump, yes? If you keep losing the bearing / rod, look at the top of the engine for the reason. #3 seems most likely to have heating problems on a stock or mild engine. Check for signs of detonation. Maybe a cooler plug is in order for that cylinder? Maybe a distribution issue is partly to blame? Have the chambers been polished and smoothed? How about limiting airflow to that cylinder slightly? Losing some power in one cylinder to allow longevity in the other three can be a good thing. Ceramic coatings can work wonders for detonation.
Good luck.
-->Slow
I don't recall any cam-in-block J motors that had a distributor? How did you drive it off the 2.2 crank?
Please understand that everything you have listed seams like total over-kill in different directions. I can't understand why you would downgrade to a distributor set-up and then upgrade that... downgrade to a carb and then upgrade that.
sooooooo much work when DIS is better than distributor and efi is better than a carb.
please do share some pictures.
PS: I have a complete 2.0 turbo bottom end sitting around. ::wink wink::
Cardomain|
Myspace
he is using the motor for racing. the rules require a distributor and a carb. no electronics can be run.
the early 1.8 and 2.0l engines were distributor ignition, so there is a way to drive them.
The early ones were also OHC though.? Weren't all of the ohv motors DIS?
Cardomain|
Myspace
Up to 86 the 1.8 / 2.0 OHV was Iron head and camshaft driven distributor equipped. The first 1.8 in 82 was carburetted ( I had 2 of them ). The switch to DIS didn't change the need to drive the oil pump, so an "oil pump drive" replaced the distributor in the rear of the block. When the aluminum head was added the intake was changed considerably, and the old style distributor no longer fit under the new intake. It sounds like the new distributor is modified so the cap is above the intake.
Look at the LH side of this picture, to the rear of the block, and you'll see where the distributor goes.
-->Slow
here are the pics
the car
bottom end with distributor
modified distributor
head off race car
built intake for carb
head i ported
new chassis
this is the modified distributor picture
how much do you want for that bottom end minion
Wow, showed me up... good job dude.
How much does it weigh?
I'll sell the complete bottom end for $300 or just the forged pistons for $100. 2.0 turbo bottom end was from an OHC set-up though . I'm unsure if the pistons and crank will work in your block.
Cardomain|
Myspace
