I finally got the 93 cavy home ... the fuel pump (which i knew was going for the longest time) finally died ... in my driveway... (im 98% sure this is the problem... im about to find out in a minute)... now i know the process of changing of changing the fuel pump is a pain in the ass (cut exhaust ... drop tank (which is half full GRRRRRR) ) any tips or suggestions to make this a bit less painful =P ...

Also i need to find a walbro fuel pump for it (93 VL 2.2l w/ engine internals) and a fuel regulator to match...

a friend suggested i try an inline fuel pump and it will pull through the dead one... i really dont see how that would work... but i threw it up here in case i'm somehow wrong and it would work...

Actually... let me describe the exact problem... so in hopes that maybe ive misdiagnosed it...

Before i replaced the motor.... at idle sometimes the car would struggle to keep idle and shut off... if i held my foot on the gas at 1500 rpms in neutral it would stay alive (but being that its an automatic... doing so is not the easist task) - replaced every sensor on my intake manifold, ive checked all my vaccum lines... no leaks (though the EVAP ball under the charcoal canister is no longer hooked up due to a front end collision that happend a long time ago) ... at first this problem would happen once every few months... then every few weeks... then i rebuilt the motor and when i started driving it again, it happen as soon as the car warmed up... finally when i pulled the car in to my driveway... it shut off... this being the first time in a long time that i didnt immediately restart it, when i tried starting it again a few hours later... it would just crank, but not fire...

The other issues i have with the motor, since the motor swap:
Extended crank on cold starts (up to 15 seconds)
when i hook the EGR up to vaccum, the car stalls out at idle every time
there is a sensor bolted to the front of the throttle body, but not a part of it (E.G. it doesnt go in to the TBody to read anything) ... when i hook it up, at about 30 MPH it feels like a governor kicks in... it wont let me pass 30 MPH)

I know the EGR is bad... i think the sensor is bad... i need to replace both... im thinking about spraying ether in to the t-body and see if it'll start for a second or two... to see if its not getting fuel...

I dont hear the fuel pump anymore before i try to start... but i hear it as soon as i let off the key (it doesnt matter how long or how short i tried to start it) ... but i cant rely on this because i havent really listened for the fuel pump since i put so much fibreglass on the car....

Actually... let me describe the exact problem... so in hopes that maybe ive misdiagnosed it...

Before i replaced the motor.... at idle sometimes the car would struggle to keep idle and shut off... if i held my foot on the gas at 1500 rpms in neutral it would stay alive (but being that its an automatic... doing so is not the easist task) - replaced every sensor on my intake manifold, ive checked all my vaccum lines... no leaks (though the EVAP ball under the charcoal canister is no longer hooked up due to a front end collision that happend a long time ago) ... at first this problem would happen once every few months... then every few weeks... then i rebuilt the motor and when i started driving it again, it happen as soon as the car warmed up... finally when i pulled the car in to my driveway... it shut off... this being the first time in a long time that i didnt immediately restart it, when i tried starting it again a few hours later... it would just crank, but not fire...

The other issues i have with the motor, since the motor swap:
Extended crank on cold starts (up to 15 seconds)
when i hook the EGR up to vaccum, the car stalls out at idle every time
there is a sensor bolted to the front of the throttle body, but not a part of it (E.G. it doesnt go in to the TBody to read anything) ... when i hook it up, at about 30 MPH it feels like a governor kicks in... it wont let me pass 30 MPH)

I know the EGR is bad... i think the sensor is bad... i need to replace both... im thinking about spraying ether in to the t-body and see if it'll start for a second or two... to see if its not getting fuel...

I dont hear the fuel pump anymore before i try to start... but i hear it as soon as i let off the key (it doesnt matter how long or how short i tried to start it) ... but i cant rely on this because i havent really listened for the fuel pump since i put so much fibreglass on the car....

scratch that...

go figure... as soon as i post this... i went outside... and the car fired right up... the only difference is last week it was like 25 degrees F outside now its like 60ish ...

I decided to go to the parts store and get a new EGR valve... and put that on... the car still sounds like it want to stall... but now its not stalling... it just struggles hard at points... so it looks like one problem is fixed... im going to take a picture of the sensor that when i hook up, the car acts like it has a governor at 30 MPH .. and ask ya'll what the sensor is (but from my description, if ya know.. .feel free to jump in) ...

once i get this motor stuff figured out... i can finish the body work, and move in to suspension....

double post is the biotch

like the car ........ will read later have no time ( in class)

Do you have a check engine light on? You should have with the EGR, and if so start there. If you have a scantool or know someone who does hook it up and log the data when you run it to see if anything falls outside of parameters.

Scotty Bishop wrote:Do you have a check engine light on? You should have with the EGR, and if so start there. If you have a scantool or know someone who does hook it up and log the data when you run it to see if anything falls outside of parameters.

Unfortunely... the Check Engine light has been on since the motor was rebuilt... i swapped wiring harnesses too... from what i thought was the exact same car... however this one has one extra plug on it... coming out of the main loom and its only long enough to reach the brakes... but i have ABS and all the brake plugs are hooked up... it matches the same style plug as the one throttle body sensor (thats doesnt read anything internal to the throttle body)

I hooked the scan tool up... i think my data port is bad... it couldnt read anything, and then when i tried the paperclip test... nothing happened, it used to blink and everything) ... im kinda going blind here...

doing more diagnosing... i only get extended crank on the first cold start... i could shut right off and it will start up on a dime.. .

however if i dont rev it ... i'll stall 2 or 3 times... with the air fuel gauge going to extreme lean before stalling... (weak fuel pump??) ... also the gas in the car is from october... so i should probably put some "water out" treatment in...-- after that 2 or 3 times and it starts running... it seems to run fine... when it idles low i can hear the car fight it and bring it back... the A/F guage shoots up to rich after its done boggling down...

Sometimes a bad coolant temperature sensor or a vacuum leak at the map sensor will cause those symptoms.

the coolent temp sensor is brand new (well not brand new... but like 2 years old... and ive put maybe 10k miles on the motor since then...)

when i rebuilt the motor, i was in the process of dropping my Toyota Cavalier 2.4 motor in my Z... so i ran dex-cool in both cars...

which sensor is the MAP? the round cyl shaped sensor in the back of the TB ... or the black rectangle shaped sensor on top of the TB

i really dont wanna pull my haynes out... it sucks for this car... (not like the one for my 2000 Z is any better, but at least it only has 4 motors in it as oppsed to like 6 or 7)

and ... (im looking your way James Cahill since you suggested this to me a long time ago) where can i find a walbro pump... walbro.com has all like lawn and garden stuff... no automotive... i found one for my buddy's integra on google search... but i cant find one for either one of my cavaliers...

Have you got a few pressure test done on this car?. That would be the first step, Also hows the fuel filter?. How are the fuel injectors?. How about the fuel pressure Regulator?.

I havent done a pressure test yet... im kinda working with basic tools .... the fuel filter is brand new... maybe 500 miles on it... the injectors are relatively new...

I figured out which sensor is the MAP sensor... i do have a vaccum leak around it... one of the threads on my tbody is stripped out... im going junk yard hopping for a new throttlebody top tomorrow (im going to keep my sensors since every sensor but the MAP has been replaced..

i also ordered an EGR Vaccum Solenoid... but i have a general question about that so im going to bring that to a new thread.. .. (cause its gonna be hard to read in this thread)