i have a 92 2.2 dirt track car that i got last fall.. it will turn over and run if u spray gas in the throttle body but it won;t run on the injectors.. gettin proper fuel pressure, changed regulator. have also tried switching computers hoping that would solve it.. is there any relays or sensors that would cause this problem? or maybe the computer needs to be relearned if thats possible?? i'm kinda stuck here with that to do

anyone have some input?

Injectors maybe? THere's a topic in the 1st gen forums about rebiulding the throttle body and the poster had wrong or bad injectors.

yai am thinking the injectors, but would all four go bad at once? it won;t even sputter on them..

Being you say the pump works(check for psi I assume),and zero fuel from injectors.Umm I would take a multimeter and probe each injector and check for resistance SET on OHMS specs should be 11.8-12.6 ohms key OFF! Disconnect the plug in to each injector .So to clarify things key on pump works,you tested for pressure,so fuel pump is good,and both the fuel pump relay and yes EVEN the oil pressure switch should be good based on what you said.Unless your engine ground is shotty may cause it,but I would check the ohms first and post back.It could even be the harness for the injectors has a short and kills them all.

ron i tested the ohms with the key off ,, i am getttin 2.8- 3.3 ohms on the connectors. i checked it on my 94 to confirm i was doing it right and i was gettin 11.8 ohms on it. i took the injector harness apart to make sure there was no corrosion. i tested the fuel pump psi to make sure and i;m getting 50. there doesn;t seem to be a bad ground. i;m gettin 12 volts on the block and the chassis. any ideas?

Ok tired after work answer.I may need to think on this.Being your car has a crankshaft position sensor and will turn over all day and yet no fuel to injectors(might be a bad cps )You can try and scan for codes see if 19 pops up.This sensor will not always set a hard code.Being this controls the engine firing,might be a possibility.Like I said tired as dirt and drinking a cold one to wind down and crash.That low ohm reading makes me think it might not be your injectors but a sensor,not a relay like for the fuel system.i will sleep on it.

so now that you slept on it any ideas? i don;t remember how to scan for codes.. isn't it by counting flashes or something? or do i need an obd1 reader?

how would i go about testing the cps?

With the OBD I, at least in older years like my '85, you can use a paper clip in the #1 and (I think) #2 holes where a reader would connect and then count the flashes. The only code I remember from 1984 is 12 being all is good, but by your year things may have changed a little.

I might have a list of what the different flashes mean somewhere, as long as someone can confirm 1984 & 1992 match up (I'm thinking they would both being OBD I)

I am digging around and cannot find find info on paper clipping the ecm hook up for the obd 1.I know you can buy a cheap obd 1 plug in (which I would suggest this!!) and see if it shows anything.A short tutorial,plug in the obd 1 reader(plug in) and turn key to ON position,next it will flash ONE time for the first number and then each flash afer that should be one number and two flashes will mean two meaning a 12 NO codes.It is really easy and auto zone,walmart,advance sell the obd 1 reader].I have a scanner with a lcd screen to do mine!!!!! (FOUND IT)Ok in my haynes you want to run a jumper wire between the A and B terminals.It should be marked with the letter A and B use these.Turn the key ON(only) and check for flashes meaning one flash is ONE, each flash after count it like 1,2,3 etc,it should be 12 but who knows.I would spend the 10-15 bux for the OBD 1 plug in.

Does the display show anything other than what the flashing light shows? If not, I'll be a cheap bastard and stick with my paperclip stolen from work :p

i do have an obd 2 scanner with the hook ups for obd1 i believe.. i will check it out.. how do i go about checking the crank postion sensor?
thanks

Well good then I double checked my books tonight after work(long freakin day) before I chilled with some beverages.The A and B are correct to ground it to have the ecm go into the diagnostic stage.As long as your obd 2 is capable of doing the one bc OBD 1 is a 12 pin plug obd 2 is 16 if I am not mistaken.As for the paper clip wayne it will work but I have a 300.00 actron scanner with a card to insert into it and correct plug for the car,and this reader has a LCD screen and 1inch tall 3 inch width ,the size of the reader is 7 x 6 and can read codes,diagnostics,and do real time driving with it hooked up to show literally everything the car does,fuel press,water temp,oil press,map sensor etc tons more.I might take a pic of it and show it.It comes with the 12 volt plug in to powr it.The scanner was 200.00 the card and cables 100.00 and my card will read 1984-1995 Gm cars and yeah u can tell the scanner was make,model,eng,and yr.Fancy it is.I bought this yrs ago at auto zone.

wow, i never knew OBDI had so much info pouring out of it.

can I haz your scanner? lol. If not... what is your scanners model and add ons for it? I am looking for something fancy that works on my 95. Does it also read abs codes?

My actron scan tool is a CP9110 and the gm/saturn cable and software cartridge is Cp9111 which I am sure are not made any longer.This set up maybe still out there not sure.And as for your 95 it may or may not work due to 94/95 gm switched to OBD2.This unit does codes,real time info registers ALL the engine perimeters,and yes even covers abs.It has the capability to even explain what the code is by definition.It is pretty sweet to drive down the road with it hooked up to see water temp,oil press,map sensor, batt voltage, etc.I will try and snap a pic thurs too busy doing yard work today to even dream of doing it.Tired I am but at least the yard is done!So yes the dummy plug in for OBD 1 is just that compared to my shop style diagnostic bc of it ability.

Here is my scan tool.If I bought a extra cord for it I could do obd2,not sure about the cartridges being available still which are specific to certain brands,yr models.

Any updates on the no run injectors?

hey ron sorry about not replying recently.. been out working on other cars.. is there any way to test the crank sensor? oil pressure ? gonna scan it this week when i get over there.. my dad did scan it and it showed a bunch of codes apprently but he didn;t write it down so i can;t remember what they were exactly.

As for oil pressure do you have the idiot light? OR not you can test this SO easy.Being if the car has a gauge for OIL,to ensure the light/gauge is receiving a signal simply remove the wire terminal and use a wire to stick in the end and ground it to the block.It should with the key ON make the light stay on,or make the gauge go ALL the way to the highest psi.If it has a gauge and the needle on the gauge were to go to the bottom or rather lower than zero means the gauge would be bad.Just get the codes they are available everywhere on the net to decribe each one.Heck auto zone,advance probably have a detailed section for said codes.A bunch of codes wow is something to wonder about.However one fault can cause a trickle down effect bc the systems tie into each other to work in a sequence!As for the CRANK sensor I do not know of a way to bypass it,simply replace the sensor is the best resolution.

Forgot when checking the oil press sender I explained the wiring side of it.As for checking the sender I would remove it and clean it with brake cleaner and make sure NO oil is outside the rubber housing(they do leak) and use thread sealant(permatex hi temp thread sealant) auto zone,advance comes in a white tube.As long as the idiot light or gauge if u have that light up,or pegs gauge means wiring is GOOD to sender.That just checks the continuity of said wiring for proper reading and no breaks,or shorts.

so my dad scanned it a week or two ago and found the numbers that came up.. its quite a few so i wonder if its just throwing a ton of codes cause of trying to start it and doing test. #42 ,33,32,24,23,21,14,13

On the test you only turn the key ON,let is do the diagnostic(NO starting) unless u have a scanner like mine or similar with said capabilities.Codes if not defined are 13 oxygen sensor, 14 coolant sensor, 21 tps circuit,23 manifold air temp(MAT),24 vehicle speed sensor,32 No altitude compensator voltage,33 exhaust gas circ (EGR) and 42 electronic spark control(ESC) OR knock sensor (ks) circuit.Umm I am thinking trying to start the car with the simple plug in scanner(for key on purposes ONLY is what you had used?Explains the multiple codes.Just let me know.I am pointing more to the esc bc it controls ALL the above items,and if defective the ECM will not read correctly and maybe make it not run do to a bad ESC (knock sensor).It grounds all this and reads the signals.I'll stop for now.

Your ride probably has both the crankshaft position and knock sensor.The cps is close to the harmonic balancer and the knock if applicable on the back of the block.There is a way to check it after doing some MORE homework on another issue.Check out http://www.wellsve.com go into archives for 1997-2000 and scope that.NOW click wells tech it will kick up a side bar go over to the testing,specs,diagrams it has a HOW to on check crankshaft pos sensors.This is a good site to learn how to check alot of sensors and has helped me learn the processes of doing so from yrs back.Surf around this site some it can be your guide.