guys I have a 89 sunbird 2.0 sohc turbo auto with 80k orig miles, completely stock. sometimes it hard starts. when this happens I have to spray starter fluid in the intake and it starts, but still bogs at half turbo line. .Sometimes it runs fine regardless. also sometimes while driving and i hit midway on the boost gauge it bogs down like its not getting gas, and then runs terriblly. sometimes I can give it gas and the turbo kicks in full throttle and runs great.
I have checked and replaced fuel line, fuel filter, intake filter, drained the gas, and replaced multiple sensors.
Sometimes when it runs like crap, i will pinch off the fuel return line and the cars runs alot better.
I also have a 85 1.8 turbo 4 speed that has never had this problem and runs great even after 260k miles.
I have ran out of ideas and am trying here as a last resort. Can anyone please give me some ideas of what to check or troubleshoot? I am almost positive it is a fuel problem of some sort, maybe some sensor or regulator or possibly the ECU telling the injectors to not inject fuel into the cylinders.
Thankyou in advance.
Bob
I also replaced the fuel return pressure switch/sensor.
The 1 item you did not say was checked or replaced was the fuel pump?I would check your psi which should be 26-32 psi, injectors checking with engine key ON only 11.8-12.6 ohms with a multimeter.Unless the regulator is sticking maybe umm I am thinking.Now a possible problem that is not a fuel problem BUT can affect fuel is your TPS sensor.It may have a dead spot or a bad contact and literally create a faulty pump issue.However just by having to use starting fluid to start the car points directly to a weak and or bad fuel pump.Unless your injectors or injector is going down and by spraying starting fluid applies more fuel to ignite to fire up.I am leaning fuel pump going bad,and your symptoms point to this in my opinion.If fuel pump has been done please advise just my thoughts at the moment.I do not want to ramble more with the could be could nots yet.Your ride has a schrader valve to check psi for the pump KEY ON only for this check,car NOT running.Same for injector check.
Hi. This is bobs son. I can assure you the fuel pump has been replaced I remember him saying that. And it is working I assume because you do here it pump whenever you turn the key. About the TPS sensor or fuel injectors or even fuel rail, I have no idea if that has been checked. I will let my dad know about what you said and he will reply soon.
Thanks for the advice man.
I have checked the fuel line for presure where you can screw in the tester, which I don't have. when it runs good the gas will come out. when its running bad, there is no gas comming out. something is telling the gas not to go to the fuel line. I have even jumped the wire that will keep the fuel pump on.
Just hearing the pump run means zero until you actually check the true psi!The pump may run all day but,if under specified pressure can seriously make all the difference.Not saying the pump is bad however it could be the pump even if had been changed at some point could be faulty,even if newer.Just check the items fuel related first pump,injectors then if these are not in spec fix.I hope this clarifies things a touch.
Yes what you need to do is hook a fuel gauge to it and not only check the fuel pressure key on engine off, but when its running and tape it to your windshield and drive it and watch it under load.
Fuel pressure means nothing without correct volume.
which is another test, put the hose into a jug, should pump out around 1 pint in 15 seconds.
Obviously it sounds like you wont even have to tape the gauge to your windshield and test drive as its so bad it will show up just sitting there at an idle.
NEVER EVER EVER DOES PUSHING THE VALVE ON THE TEST PORT TELL YOU ANYTHING PEOPLE!!!
Let us know what the pressure test shows and TELL US BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING because that doesnt = bad pump, we want to be sure of it before you waste any more money.
89 355 s10 blazer
94 sunbird, 2.0 turbo 5spd getrag swap
Turbonetics turbo, intercooler, E85 20psi
ok, finally got a fuel pressure gage, at this point the car will not even start.
with key on the pressure is around 38, no leakage when I shut the key off, meaning no problems with the pump or return pressure regulater. no codes are showing. I have the helms book specifically for the car and year.(same one the dealer uses). I know that something isn't telling the injectors to go on or off, but don't know if its a sensor or what. I get fuel right up to the fuel rail. I have disconnected the intake hose and pored some gas in there, it will start and then stall.So I know its not a spark issue either. gotta get this running, the wife is threating to buy a new car. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am out of gas (myself literally tired).Let me revisit this this wkend or at least ponder it some when I fresh.With what you said I maybe can help out on suggestions or read my books and get this fixed.As for a new car I own one 2011 civic which is my daily being I do not and have not used my cav for daily use in years now.I am done and out of thought.
damm wife took the plates of the car yesterday without me knowing it and bought a new scion xb. I didn't know it until I pushed my car in the garage and went to close the door, turned around and noticed the plate was missing, then looked at my bank account.A little pissed here for sure
damn that sucks man, well let me know if you want to sell anything
89 355 s10 blazer
94 sunbird, 2.0 turbo 5spd getrag swap
Turbonetics turbo, intercooler, E85 20psi
Ok bare with after 400 miles of trkg today.I know the things you have and or changed.So first rule out the oil press sender,this has to work to get the fuel pump to work and or relay.Now trying to read into some things in my books and I already had the thoughts before.IF the ecm does not get a reading of the temperature from your coolant temp sensor (near your thermostat as far as I know) it will turn over but not start.I ruled out cps (crank position) being u said it fired with fuel to tbi and ran briefly so rules out electrical like coil,ignition module.Also a bad map sensor can cause a no start but can be by passed with jumper wires.I am running on fumes myself so recommend 1st new coolant sender (or you might can simply pull wire end off and ground it) see if it runs?The sender has to ground to send a signal to the ecm which tells the temps and injectors to work.As for which ends to run a jumper to for the bypass I would have to double check and just too late and tired to pursue it.It is also a possible that if your car has AC it has a pressure switch if faulty can cause a no start bc it grounds (stupid yeah) but is what it is.Unless your waste gate is sticking or turbo parts are playing into it(not sure on that being a part of the issue at all).I will find my post on checking the map and link I think it is here on this forum got to find.Done and tired as dirt.As for the new car (explicit langauge)and done.
