since ct doesn't really do the non stock engine gig (socialists) what can i do to lower the nox. i was 50% off.
the cars egr is not working but i am not sure that is the major issue, thoughts?
Probably the tune. If this is the 3500 swap. You most likely need it tuned right and it will pass. Egr, and catalyst will increase nox if they are not functioning properly but your tune will be the biggest issue.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Sct system. Diesel after treatment lolz yep cat is 90 percent if the problem
Denatured Alcohol in the tank with premium ......................(trick from AZ's Tough Emission testing)
Doug in P.R.
92 Pontiac Sunbird LE, 2.0, AT, Red / Black with Grey 155K miles. Hurricane Maria Survivor ! ( It takes a licking and keeps on ticking ! ).....in Salinas, Puerto Rico!
Wow I thought Mass was bad. Sub'd for information.
"In Oldskool we trust"
my 3400 swapped passed with no egr, charcoal canister. All I have is a 4in long high flow car and straight pipes after that. Not sure how they run the test but if you had someone make you an very lean tune and you put it in right before the test you NOx would be way down since very lean conditions cause very low NOx.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
from my v6z24 post it may give more depth for diagnosis
howdy all,
so this 90z with 3500 works ok but has a few issues. Tried searching through everything but to no avail.
Info on the car. 3500 swap looks to be decently clean. electrical system working well (at least charging and accessories). EGR not plugged in. engine egr does not have same plug as the cars factory. aftermarket coils (not ohm or volt tested yet).
Car failed emissions due to high nox. other levels well within limits.
What happens is at moderate (1/2) throttle from any rpm above 3k and at almost any speed it is like the engine seizes for a heartbeat. in a slow roll of throttle in 3rd or higher it begins to sputter while accelerating.
In highway mode I see it the most but when you get to 3800 to 4300 it is almost like fuel cutoff kicks in. not ideal.
The car was originally an auto so I am wondering if the chip is not right. Most of my experience is in 3rd gen so I am at a loss right now. BTW no cel showing.
as an aside it moves like a raped ape before then. makes me miss the 3500 swapped third gen i had.
so i need to get the egr system working for emissions reasons. i think i the original egr connector, it is 4 pin with one not inline. the 3500 has the newer egr set up with 5 pins. any suggestions on how to convert so the system works and i can pass?
I think TCE makes an adapter plate. You need to get rid of the auto tune. That's one reason the car isn't running right. The fuel maps are off or what every they are called when you switch from auto the manual. Almost everyone passes without an egr if everything else is ok with the engine and exhaust. In 99% of the tunes, the egr and purge are turned off since sometimes it causes issues.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Rob Dotterer wrote:I think TCE makes an adapter plate. You need to get rid of the auto tune. That's one reason the car isn't running right. The fuel maps are off or what every they are called when you switch from auto the manual. Almost everyone passes without an egr if everything else is ok with the engine and exhaust. In 99% of the tunes, the egr and purge are turned off since sometimes it causes issues.
the car was reflashed but i am not sure of the parameters therein. I pulled the egr to check it out, the block off plate they used worked, once i took it of the engine revved to 3k and stayed there then back to normal idle after putting it back on. if the system is intact on the new engine i am wondering the merits of just putting on one that works with the new block and old harness.
so tuned chip is in the mail. While puling the top part of the engine to check everything i found a few fun items. things like spark plugs gapped at 65 (maybe for the accel coils but i doubt it. a bunch of corroded connections that were cleaned and dielectric greased. i also found the fuel intake like was leaking around the disc thing on it. jy here i go i suppose.
the car scares me at times. when it studders it is literally like the engine stopped working for a second. very violent. worse is it is not a consistent thing temp, throttle, rpm etc. otherwise i would have something to look into further.
other fun things: i need to put in a new flex pipe. it is only held in by the inner weavings.
my ac compatible mount should arrive in jan so i can throw ac in the car.
the brakes suck compared to my third gen. not sure if it is an issue or if they were always lame.
Brakes always sucked. Do a nwf swap with neon rear disks and you will be happy.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
proper chip and adapter arrived today. need to fix the fuel inlet pipe to the fuel rail before i continue. anyone know if I can run an an adapter or if the little drum piece on the line needs to remain?
Little drum piece is some kind of check valve I believe. There is a bearing or something in there to stop fuel from flowing backwards I think. Not 100% sure. Most cars have it.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
well i got a new one. going to throw the new line on tomorrow. its got a valve of some sort for sure. i think its for start up so there is pressure in the line. I pulled the egr off a 94, going to have to decide on cutting the original wires on the car and splice in a connector for the new style or use the old one and make an adapting plate of some sort. also got a new vacuum set up for the cruise control
How did it turn out?
Rob Dotterer wrote:Brakes always sucked. Do a nwf swap with neon rear disks and you will be happy.
Sorry for my newbie ignorance here in jargon...what's a nwf swap?
Thanks!
my 3400 swap failed by 5% in CT last time through. It has no egr, charcoal, but does have a cat.
You need to be able to tune. I had to run wicked rich to get mine to pass in my 89. There are the additive tricks too.
