My story.
I have recently discovered that the C.A.R.S. series (Canadian Association of Rallysport) has changed thier rules to the production class. Now in class P2, displacement up to 2.2L is allowed. This is great because under the old rules a Sunfire would have been bumped into the open class because of its displacement. It wouldn't stand a chance against some 300hp subaru or something.
So in a few years when I'm making better money I hope to race my 2004 sunfire. Normally I wouldn't want to run a newer car in something like that but they loose their re-sale value so fast it'll be practically worthless by then anyway, lol.
By far the biggest obstacale I think would be upgrading the suspension. I'm assuming springs and shocks alone wouldn't be enough. What would I have to change to be sure that if the car is flying 3ft off the ground I could still land with confidence, and maintain integrity over a few hundred km of gravel roads sometimes in very rough condition? Does anyone have any ideas? Keeping in mind it must remain the same type of suspension and only 1 shock per wheel is allowed. I ask her because it hasn't been done before I'm pretty sure. Its not like a dime a dozen volkswagon golf, suzuki swift...etc typical rally car.
if thats what you wanna do...sell the fire. you pretty much need awd in rally man
Vice President - NEJBody
2007 Cobalt SS
2001 Sunfire (retired)
^^^ i have seen neons in lower class rally events.....so i assume you can use FWD but i doubt your gonna be that great
i wouldn't even know where to tell you to begin, i remeber a long time ago some guys posted that he rally races his cavalier, havent herd from him in prob 2 years.....so i don't know how to tell you to get in touch with him.
ur gonna defintly need one of those cool things that go on the hood that holds like 4 giant fog lights that would be awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!
In MI there was a pretty competitive Citation so anything can def be rallied.
chevy even had a SEMA rally cavalier
I'd say research what the other guys do to their FWD cars and try to emulate that with parts available for Js.
2000 2200 Cavalier: 9/14/2000--10/23/2006
2007 G85 SS S/C: 10/23/2006--Present
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Just so ya'll know.
2WD cars do not compete against AWD cars as they're in seperate classes. So all my competitors would be Volkswagon Golf, Ford Focus/Escort, Dodge Neon Mitsubishi Lancer (2WD model) ... etc. They only show the big dogs on tv but 2wd cars actually make up the majority of the entries at a rally event. The idea is to make a lower cost class in which the average working stiff can afford to race in.
So yesh I am serious, but its just that I'm not sure its been done before which will make my task more difficult. And under closer inspection of the rules, this is only if the new rule changes go through.
And yes, obviously a big light pod would have to be attached to the front, lol.
To Alex:
Was that the tall pines rally? I went there to spectate in 2005. Dozens of people were booing the Honda's as they came by, (I think there were only a couple entered) I thought that was priceless.
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]chevy even had a SEMA rally cavalier
Yep he ain't kidding
It was called the...
Chevy Cavalier Moab <<(sp)
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
I'm sorry if i'm jacking this thread but is there any pics of that ^^^ cavy???
Don't forget the Saturn ION Redline rally car. And there are still FWD cars on the pro circuit. Most notably is the Citroen Xsara, which is one of the top cars in SCCA Pro Rally. There's also a grass roots rally series called the Gravel Crew. They have entries varying from old FWD Saabs and Volvos to new WRXs and Lancer Evolutions.
Suspension travel is your friend in rallying. As much as you can possibly get. The more contact the tire has with the ground, the better.
You're going to have to start looking through catalogs from damper manufacturers to find long travel struts that will fit in the stock strut body (similar to Konis), or the "build your own" style struts, where all you do is weld on ears to bolt to the spindle.
You're probably going to want to do an independant rear suspension if the rules will allow it. That'll help keep the most rubber on the ground as possible. You'll want to reinforce the upper strut mounts since you have to use stock mounts, as the stock ones aren't made to handle that kind of stress. A full roll cage is a good idea not only for safety, but to stiffen the car up. Stronger axles are a good idea too. I'd also say you might want to get a bigger rear sway bar, a little oversteer is a your friend in rallying. Not too much, just enough to help get through the corners since a front drive car isn't going to want to turn on loose surfaces. And don't lower the car. You're going to need as much suspension travel as possible and lowering the car isn't going to get you there. If anything, I'd say leave it at stock height and use a stiffer set of springs to keep you from bottoming out.
Thanks for the opinions, and now to pick through this.
ln2johnny:
Not only is a roll cage a good idea but its mandintory in the rules. I'll definatly have one of those.
James Cahill:
Alot of suspension travel will be good but too much will result in too much roll and increase a chance of rolling over. I suppose I'd have to find a happy medium. Judging from what I see on other rally cars, stock or just slightly higher than stock ride height should do the job.
You will need something adjustable, and for our cars that means koni yellows.
Its cool that you are rallying it, and I hear FWD isnt that bad. The SERs do well, my friend has a 1991 SER and rallys in the winter and fall here in NY. He encouraged me to race this coming season (Winter season) and they have a basically stock class. I am going to race the beater for fun, you dont need too much speed just driving skills. So I am going to give it a try.
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
Here's what I think would be a good rally setup:
1. McMoney's solid pillow-ball mounts for the front struts, and I think the stock rear mounts should do fine since they are just one solid piece.
2. Koni Yellow's and a new set of stock Z24 springs. I've been told they are a bit stiffer than the base model springs.
3. Stock FE2 front sway bar and an Addco 1" rear sway bar.
4. A set of good strut tower braces such as Freedom Design or RK Sport.
go talk and attend some rallycross competitions and check out what their running.
Typically you want to run softer shocks than what you would for road racing, you'll want higher ground clearence and skid plates to protect from rocks. Reinforcement of chasis is also a good move as well.
-Chris
IamRascal wrote:go talk and attend some rallycross competitions and check out what their running.
Typically you want to run softer shocks than what you would for road racing, you'll want higher ground clearence and skid plates to protect from rocks. Reinforcement of chasis is also a good move as well.
Don't forget a roll-cage!!!
Knowledge about everything and yet an expert of nothing!!
Jack of all trades.
he can start in rallycross without one, but a rollcage will also help with chasis stiffening.
-Chris
I'd throw Koni Yellows on stock springs and go at it. Get some decent tires and wheels you arent really concerned about. Add a skid plate under the engine/transmission to keep rocks from puncturing your oil pans.
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