i am just curious on what other fellow autoxers running jbodys
doing for the suspension alignment settings?

for me i have:
in the front
-2.6 degrees camber
.25 degrees on each side toe out for a total of .5 degrees

for the rear
i didn't do anything with so i have
0 camber
0 toe

i noticed that the toe out helped allot with turn in and the slip angle increased allowing me to get on the gass much sooner in the turns.
now i don't have to feather the gas though the slaloms to force the front to go where i wont to by trancefering weight to the front to stop under-steer.
i can now keep the gass even and as long as i had the right entry speed.

but i wont to have the rear rotate more than what it is doing right now. playing with the tire pressures i have the car pretty neutral but for some of the courses it isn't enough.

so i heard that if i get toe out in the rear that will help with the rotation when the weight starts to transfer to the out side tires though the turn. and i am thinking for the next season to squeeze a little camber out of the rear around a -degree or so but not as extreme as the front.

so back to my question what were your settings for alignment and what are some good shims for the rear to achieve the specs.

thanks allot from one autoxer to another




auto x kills brain cells!!!

I have a 1/8 inch total toe out. Did wonders for the feel of the car. I only have about .5 degree negative camber in the front too, I drive the car too much to go any more.


I havent touched the rear, not allowed in STS. From what I have been told, toe out in the rear is a big no-no though. Crazy snap oversteer.



Go Go OG Traction!!

wow, -2.5...thats a lot, for a dd that is

never went past 2 degrees camber... havent been on a course to where the turns or track is that fast to use that much.

-1.5 to 2 degrees front, -1 for daily driving.
-toe out about -0.8, or +0.5 toe in

and

the rear is at stock specs..

WOW, I hope you don't drive much on the street. I've got -1.8 camber and 0 toe in the front and about -0.5 in the rear and 0 toe. My daily driving tires are showing noticible wear from the camber.

I am currently using kumho mx's and the sidewalls are extremely soft compared to the falken's. So the side walls are warring considerably more than the inside due to the soft sidewalls, also I have noticed that the kumho's have better grip when they are around 36-42 psi considering the course. (There’s a reason that the kumho sponsored pro-solo teams refused to run the mx’s this year) So to prevent the out side to where more than the inside I have a camber bolt that I adjust the day prier to the event to get the even where that I need.

So am I hearing it right that shims aren’t allowed in sts so no rear end adjustment is legal? I know some guys that run an sts neon in nationals (who also are national champs) who give their neon around 1/8th toe out to give it the rotation that they desire.

Next year a buddy and me are going dutch in on a first gen acr neon and hopefully prep it for some national events around 3 years from now.

(Rome was not built in a day)



auto x kills brain cells!!!

-2.3 degrees camber and 0 toe.

No noticable wear from camber, toe is what wears them down.

For the record I'll be moving down to -2 degrees of camber next time I get an alignment.


-Chris

straight from the rule book section 14.8 in Street Touring.

"This does not allow the use of spacers that alter suspension geometry,
such as those between the hub carrier and lower suspension arm."


And for toe out, I guess if you are a good driver and can handle the rotation, than go for it, I am not that good yet so I wont. Not that it matters cause we cant get toe out in the rear in sts.



Go Go OG Traction!!

woofwood wrote:So to prevent the out side to where more than the inside I have a camber bolt that I adjust the day prier to the event to get the even where that I need.

When you adjust your camber settings make sure to check all your toe settings again as well (in case you didn't know). It may be a little different using the camber bolt, but when I adjust the camber with the plates the tires will toe in real quick when I start adding camber.

yes i do check the toe settings the day prior to the event one of my friends has one of the Smart Strings alignment kits. (he runs national events in a ACR neon)

the cars that i have played with that goes crazy with toe in are the new Acura RSX's and the civic's. even the 89's are very sensitive to toe in when changing the camber.

thanks for your consern and great input with what your alignment settings. before i went on here i was talking to the VW GTI guys which seem to be the only other competitive sts cars with torsion twist beam rear's.




auto x kills brain cells!!!

OG Nick wrote:straight from the rule book section 14.8 in Street Touring.

"This does not allow the use of spacers that alter suspension geometry,
such as those between the hub carrier and lower suspension arm."

Actually thats an area of debate. Considering for all technicalities a spacer would be placed between the hub and the lower suspension arm.

The question is what defines a hub carrier. This rule is more to prevent people with multiple arm supension from using spacers where the arm bolts to the frame.

Using spacers between the hub and the trailing arm by that rule is still legal because your not altering the supension geometry. Its one of those grey areas that people prefer to stay away from. I'm still debating if I want to try some or not seeing as it is a "accepted" method of alignment correction for that type of suspension.

Also I've been told of other national competitors who use spacers on rear trailing arm suspensions without repercussion.


-Chris

I kinda thought the same thing. It is the accepted alignment method, so what if your toe or camber is way out back there and you want it back to stock ya know? And its kinda "unfair" because cars with a better designed rear suspension that have adjustablility have a big advantage. So I guess its up to you.



Go Go OG Traction!!