What kind of pains in my ass am i lookin at when considering changing the rack out? just went to the mechanic and ive been informed its going bad, and that its ok to drive for a couple months, but when it starts getting harder to steer, its getting closer to time to repair. so now im thinking, Ef that, ill just replace it now, i got down and checked it out, "looks" like 2 bolts holding the rack on the subframe, tie rods would have to come off, and then how do i disconnect the steering ? thanks for any help

Steering has 1 10mm bolt, Tie rods, 2 bolts to subframe, and 2 18mm nuts on hoses. It will not want to come out though. Overall 3 / 5 wrenches.

just out of morbid interest what qualifies as 4-5 wrenches?

I dont know about your car. But some vehicles you have to remove the subframe to remove the rack.


- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

May have to drop the subframe slightly, but I think it can weasel out with the subframe in place.

1 / 5 wrenches - Requires a screwdriver or other tool that everyone has. Idiot proof (mostly).
2 / 5 wrenches - Requires using more than one tool. Generally idiot proof with the right directions.
3 / 5 wrenches - Requires tools not everyone has, but still common (like sockets). May require a fair amount of time too.
4 / 5 wrenches - The limit of the weekend warrior. Requires many tools, sometimes specialized. Usually directions are necessary.
5 / 5 wrenches - Professionals or people with access to professional tools and knowledge only need attempt.

Examples:
1 - Air filter
2 - WAI. Changing Oil. Spark Plugs.
3 - Replacing most simple parts. Disc Brakes. Stereos. Most bolt-on engine stuff.
4 - Drum brakes. Replacing odd things like fuel lines, timing chains, bearings.
5 - Engine rebuilds. Most tranny work. Other crazy modifications. Painting.

I did a rack change out and all you have to do is pop the tie rods, take the bolts out and it will actually shimmy out without taking anything else out. Push it all the way to the left get one side of the rack down(tie rod arm) throught the midle of the car throught the subframe and then pull the other side throught and do it in reverse for the install.
Its not hard and should be considered a 3/5 only because of the tools required, it took me 20 mins. but I also had my car on a lift so maybe double the time if I was on the ground.

Edit: Do yourself a favor and get a complete rack including the rod ends and everything on ebay ($100.00 or so) from those sellers that part out busted cars. Then your not screwing with tie rods ends and crap....saves alot of time. I know there not new but 30k or so isn't a big deal on the steering tie rods.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:56 AM

I hear ya, im going to get a direct oem replacement. cost me about 200 bucks, but itll be refurbished. and im thinking about gettin new tie rod ends as well,. either way, it wouldnt matter. ill just count my turns, and right after im done, ill get it to a shop for an alignment. Anyway, so basically pop the tie rod ends, then unbolt the rack from the subframe, what about the part at the top of the rack that goes into the steering? anything special to get that off? another bolt? i know i have to lock the steering wheel or itll mess up the airbag. Im decently mechanically inclined, i do almost all of my own work. id just never done one of these yet hehe, sounds pretty straight forward, anything i need to watch for? any do's or don'ts? just for safety (dont know why i havnt yet) but im going to pick up a haynes/chilton for the diagram/tips. any help is great guys, thinkin about knockin this out this coming up weekend, get it over with

You don't have to lock the steering wheel. Just make sure the wheels are straight when you start, don't turn the steering wheel while it's disconnected, and put the new rack in the center position (about equal runout on both tie rods). It's a 10mm bolt under the boot to disconnect the steering linkage. There's also two 18mm PS hoses that need to be disconnected. I don't believe anyone says they can take out and put in a new one it in 20 minutes; that's too damn fast. Maybe 30 if you're really good at it. I would expect a first timer to take 1 to 2 hours. The whole thing is designed to want to NOT come a part (for obvious reasons) and fights you the whole way.

^Yeah I did it in 20mins.....but it your defense it was the second time I guess you could say since I had the dropped the subframe once before and was familiar with all the bolts and the 10mm steering bolt under the boot stuff....like I said I was on a lift and its only a few pops and bolts and slide it to the left and pull it out. I also bought a COMPLETE new rack, not having to F with any tie rod ends or anything, just push the new one in and go.

You dropped the subframe to do it? i dont have to do i? i like the idea of sliding it out, and fighting it. lol. less bolts i gotta take out the better, I dont have a lift available right now. so it would be jackstands

No you dont have to drop the subframe it doesn't make the job any easier anyway. I'm just saying the reason it didn't take me very long at all is because I was already familiar with the bolts and such from when I dropped the sub frame before and installed my front sway bar. Anyway, good luck.

Ok, now i have just one more questions, Should i buy a power rack and pinion steering assembly from ebay "GM distributor" GM part, for 195.00 free shipping. or should i buy one from the local autozone/advance auto parts for 200 + core charge for OEM. i think the 195 is NEW where as the oem when is remanufactured. what do you guys think? im just worried about the shipping guys breakin somethin. opinions?

get it from your local auto store, that way you KNOW you have a warranty, and there is a LOCAL place of business to deal with. I'm pretty sure that is you go to Autozone they have one with a lifetime warranty.

Since it's sort of on topic I figure I'll ask. I blew my rack a few weeks back and am thinking of swapping to manual steering .... anyone have any ideas of a rack that might work?

ok,. sorry to bring it back, but my car is tore apart in my garage, and im trying to do this. i have the subframe bolts out of it, so the assembly is loose. and im working on the power steering fittings, (those things are one there!) but where is the 10mm bolt located on the the steering linkage, i lifted the boot, and cant see a nut, just kinda looks like a u join on a drive axle sort of. any help? hoping to get this done before the nights over..

Livid: Have you ever used manual steering?? I think it's a horrid idea unless the car is a trailor queen.

2k1: On that U-Joint, the half closer to the R&P has a bolt sticking right though it, the only bolt in there. You've got to be looking right at it. Those power steering fittings are 18mm, just get a box wrench and reach up along the exhaust pipe.

If anyone needs a rack and pinion I have one off of a Ecotec. By the way the Ecotecs have a better turn ratio than the pre Ecotec cars. It has about 30k on it. Actually have the complete subframe with spindles.



FU Tuning

Quote:

Livid: Have you ever used manual steering?? I think it's a horrid idea unless the car is a trailor queen.

I agree. I had a 2nd gen coupe w/ no power steering. That was quite horrendous to drive... to the point of selling the car 2 weeks later.

Holy @!#$. i figured out why i couldn't find the steering linkage pinch bolt. there wasn't one in there . that could have been real bad. wow. anyway, got a new bolt in there, got the rack in there, and let me tell you, that was one HELL of a pita. my knuckles are still bleedin haha. anyways, thanks for the help guys. i seen someone was talking about the ecotec rack having a better turn ratio then pre-ecotec. the pre-ecotec rack will work with an ecotec motor tho correct? say if i picked up the feed and return lines for the power steering pump from an eco, they would bolt right up to the rack from a pre-eco vehicle correct? hopefully skwirl seez this post, i wonder if he used the pre-eco rack... Thanks guys
2k1cavy

Almost all GM R&Ps are the same general dimensions. I'm putting one from a Grand Prix in my car (I don't recommend this because it's complicated). The lines are all the same. The Eco R&Ps have a different gear ratio so you can turn the wheels slightly faster. Could be useful for auto-x.

Missing the bolt. That was weird. Wonder where it went. Definitely would have been bad if the linkage came off while driving (which is highly unlikely, but still).

I have read this and talked to a few people at GM dealer that there are different racks with different gear ratios.
would it be worth it swap out mine for one of out a car with a tighter ratio?

if so which cars were equipped with this particular rack. Z's? G.A.'s? Aleros?

second the project car i have been working was a Base model and i dont think it came with a front anti roll car.
how difficult would a front roll bar install be without having a factory one.


In Advance to those who respond thank a lot. I know there can be arguing and pettyness when a lot of people just need some q's answered. i apprecite having a site like this for J-tuner guys. Any help is always appreciated


Koop

front anti roll bar? im assuming u mean the sway bar that bolts up to the control arms and to the subframe, if so all j's have these if yours is not on there you mite need to install one but it should bolt right up. I do have one in my garage from swapping subframes if you need it pm me or something

yeah mine was not equipped with one i guess. I am not sure if base models were equipped with a roll bar. I just need whatever hardware is needed to bolt it up. I have an Eibach pro kit i got from TTR.

what do you guys think about the power steeing rack idea. should i go with a rack with a tigher gear if i have already thrown all this money into my car.

let me know
Koop

Many GM car R&Ps will fit in a J. I have a W body with variable effort in mine, but that took some reworking of the steering linkage. If you want to change the gear ratio just find the one you want and pop it in (for the most part). Most recent J and N body R&Ps will fit without modification. The GTs and Zs came with different ratios. Check GMpartsdirect.com for a list of different ratios.

FSB: One new bolt and two clamps from the dealer, one sway bar, and a pair of end ties and you're good to go. Does require dropping the subframe to install, see directions in many other posts.

hey thanks guys.

to CTS: what is the benefit of having a variable effort from a W body in the cav? how would that feel compared to a base model one? also how would the variable effort feel compared to a Z's R&P?

I am not worried about labor or effort of install. I work at a shop so I will be able to have help with any problems I run into.

I want to do a lot of the swaps guys on here have installed like the IRS/Rear Disc and the F-body brake install.
I am trying to get a second job so i can save up for the turbo for my car.
I Probably should make a list so when parts fail i know what year and what model GM car is came from.

with the Front brake and rear disc conversion would you have to change out the master cylinder too because the proportioning valve being used for a completely diferent application? talked to a couple techs today and they mentioned it to me.

i know its a rack and pinion post just thought i'd ask.

thanks again
koop