I need help doing this. I get the gist of it, but I want to know if you guys have had any experience of what not to do, or ways to make this go smoother.
I want to remove my control arms, bring them to NAPA so they can press in the new bushings, go home, then reinstall my control arms.
Sounds easy enough...what do I need to look out for?
Should I re-tighten these as much as possible when reinstalling?
How much do you guys/girls like your bushings?
if you tighten them to much, they might bind.
i did a set on a honda. your actually supposed to get the bolts in place and put everything together and put the car on the ground at ride height then tighten to torque spec. keeps them from binding
or atleast thats what i was told by our master technician at my shop when i did them on a honda
Pour on whatever lube you have. Or else they'll squeak and make all kinds of noises.
well. like said above. lube them or youll regret it. i made that mistake. another thing is remember theres the metal ring that needs to be cut out before the poly bushings will come out. and 1 more thing is not every napa can press bushings in and out. it depends on the owner and the surrounding business on what type of special machinary theyll cary. i would call and ask first.
RyZ96 wrote:if you tighten them to much, they might bind.
i did a set on a honda. your actually supposed to get the bolts in place and put everything together and put the car on the ground at ride height then tighten to torque spec. keeps them from binding
or atleast thats what i was told by our master technician at my shop when i did them on a honda
What do you mean by 'bind'?
So drop the car completely off the jack stands, THEN tighten the bolts to spec?
Wojo wrote:well. like said above. lube them or youll regret it. i made that mistake. another thing is remember theres the metal ring that needs to be cut out before the poly bushings will come out. and 1 more thing is not every napa can press bushings in and out. it depends on the owner and the surrounding business on what type of special machinary theyll cary. i would call and ask first.
The NAPA does do it. I got that detail ironed out.
Do all of them need to be lubed?
C.T.S wrote: Pour on whatever lube you have. Or else they'll squeak and make all kinds of noises.
Do the noises ever go away?
The metal and the poly, when not properly lubricated, form enough friction for the surface of the poly to become "stuck" to the metal. When pressures are relieved the twisted poly bushing will pop back to it's original shape, the popping noise is annoying, and the twisting bushing is causing excess and unpredictable forces on your suspension.
I don't know about the torque details, but it sounds like RyZ96 is saying you should install the control arms, take the car off the jackstands and then tighten the bolts to spec. So yes, you've got the idea.
Yes lube all of them. It'll make it easier for them to be pressed in too. I'm not sure what lube you should use, I'd probably use lithium grease not knowing any better.
If you don't lube your bushings... no. The noises will never go away on their own. You'd have to remove them, lube them, and replace them. That dosn't sound fun does it?
You'll likely need an alignment after it's done. Otherwise, you'll love em.
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
They give you a good deal of lube with the bushings....USE IT ALL.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
from all data at work
Quote:
Raise rear of vehicle and support rear axle under front side of spring seat using a suitable jack.
Remove wheel and tire assembly.
If right hand side bushing is to be replaced, disconnect brake line bracket from body. If left hand side bushing is to be replaced, disconnect brake line bracket from frame and parking brake cable at hook guide.
Remove control arm to mounting bracket attaching nut, bolt and washer, then allow control arm to rotate downward.
The bushing can now be replaced using tools shown in Fig. 4. When installing bushing, the arrow on the installer must align with arrow on the receiver, Fig. 4.
Reverse procedure to complete installation. The control arm attaching bolt must be torqued after vehicle is lowered to floor and is in its standing height position. Torque attaching bolt to specifications.
Quote:
Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire.
Disconnect stabilizer bar at lower control arm and control arm support.
Install modified seal protector tool No. J 34754 or equivalent.
Using tool J-29330, on 1989-90 models or tool No. J 38892, on 1991--92 models,, separate ball joint from steering knuckle.
Remove control arm support to chassis retaining bolts and remove control arm support and control arm as an assembly.
Separate control arm from support, then using tool Nos. J29792-1 and J29792-2 or equivalent, remove bushings from control arm.
Lubricate new bushings and install into control arm using tool Nos. J29792-1, J29792-2 and J29792-3 or equivalent.
Attach lower control arm to control arm support. Torque pivot bolts to 61 ft. lbs.
Install control arm support to chassis. Refer to Fig. 5, for attaching bolt torques.
Reverse procedure to complete installation. Check toe setting and adjust as required.
once i get out of work i'll help explain it a little better, becuase this is confusing without pictures or some type of reference..
okay the first procedure is for the rear and the second for the front,
forget about the special tools the say to use..
and i guess after reading it its not to confusing
ask away if you have questions i have the print outs of the procedure from work. so let me know
Hardest part i thought was trying to get the damn thing back in and have the holes line up. But i did it with a screw driver and big @!#$in hammer. Then i also put in new ball joints as well when i had these out. The bushings are soo stuff i had to litterly stand on the a-arm to get it to go back into the steering knuckle where the lower ball joint was suppose to go. I love em. Made my whole front end nice and stiff.
