I am in the process of doing the lower engine mount and it looks like it is too short. By too short I mean the bolt holes don't line up. I might be able to get it close enough but its such a tight fit its really hard to move the mount a little. Please any help is appreciated, I need the car for work tomorrow.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
3 words... "jack" and "sacrificial screwdriver"
Jack for what? You saying I just got to use a screw driver to give it that little clearance it needs?
Is it a bad idea to file the hole a little?
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Ok thanks. I already had a jack under the engine with wood on the jack pad, thats why i was confused about the extra jack.
I had to get a new bolt b/c I was missing the bolt closest to the bumper. Maybe thats why I was having weird noises and un-explainable trans failure. I will try that after dinner, thanks.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
when i installed mine, the holes were off aswell, but i had to stick a screw driver and twist it around to pull the engine a little to make them line up.
Thanks for the help. I got it in there and I love the feel. Don't think I even bent the screw driver.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
strange, i never had a problem with installing the lower mount. i didnt even use the jack and wood trick either
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
I like to recommend it for an added safety measure... should the upper mount fail...
Shawn, glad it worked out for ya
The holes in the mounts are right on, it is the lower half of the engine shifting forward or backwards. The hole spacing in the mount is right on
there is just available movement in the other mounts, when you remove the lower.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Figured it was something like that. I ran out of time to do the control arm bushings yesterday, it looks like the only hard part for them is taking the arm off. Anyone know if these or the trans mounts are much harder?
Now I got to decide if I install the upper insert or wait and buy the Turbo Tech new mount.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
The trans mounts are easy, the control arms are a pain, because you need a press to change the bushings. Let me know if you have a lot of torque steer afterward.
Caution: Redneck Posting
pic042707_6.jpg
^^ +1. I did both a couple weeks ago. trans bushings = 8 bolts, a vice and a BFH.
Control arm bushings = removing the lower mount (sorry Shawn...), removing the driver's subframe brace, 4 bolts, 2 nuts on the ball joints, pickle fork and BFH, press, hacksaw, beer...
The lower dog bone mount was pretty easy to install, I just pryed slowly with a screw driver it worked it into position, Only pain, to do is try re instaling the the stocker dog bone mount in its place, That one is a pain.
when you use the pry bar what exactly do you pry. I assume you pry the engine into place, but what do you use for hold the screw driver against for leverage?
I read my haynes manual after i got the lower mount in and I saw you had to drop the sub frame and undo the mount i just spent hours putting in. So I don't think I am going to do that for a while. I got to do the front sway bar too though.
This weekend is going to be the upper mount and then if that goes well the trans mounts too.
Or I could wait another year and do it when I hopefully pull the engine.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Sway bar isn't too bad...
6 bolts for the subframe, I had to take the bolts out of the steering rack as well for clearance...
took me about 3 hours for that.
how hard can it be.. u dont need a jack for the lower mount either if by chance the engine slides forward just pull it back and push the bolt thru it
$50 shipped and its sold.
