Hey guys I'm gathering the parts for the N-W-F brake swap with the modded 99 GAGT aluminum control arms and the n body spindles and 11" brakes for now then upgrading to the W body 12" stuff later. Misinblu has finished modding my aluminum control arms but I don't have the ball joints any more and want to get new ones. Which pn ball joint do I ask for 99 GA GT FE2 or FE3 ball joints, thanks guys.
It won't make a difference on the two.
The control arm is the same on both so either of the two would work.
I would advise that you get the better of the two for longevity of the ball joint.
So if they have a ball joint that is 20 bucks and one for about 50 bucks, get the better unit.
There's a difference in the materials and if you can afford the Moog ball joints, get them from O-Reilley parts.
Good luck with them.
Pics ftw when you're done and you better e-mail me with some pics.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
1/2 inch.
I did use a starter drill bit to guide the 1/2 inch though.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
i used a hacksaw on mine since it was getting changed out anyway!!!!!!!
How long did it take for you to do with a hacksaw?
Not a bad idea though using the hacksaw.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
air chizel the rivet head right off, or regular chizel.
thats the easiest way i have found, and quickest.
Lol, I don't know about your rivets but the ones I've removed have been pretty solid.
Using a chisel would seem self defeating but hey, that too is a great idea.
Btw, I'm taking in all this information for future reference.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Yes, pilot holes are definitely a must.
I've heard of the hacksaw method on arms before, but I'd be too afraid of removing the aluminum from the seating surface.
An air chisel? Ouch! Maybe on the stamped steel arms...
Built 94-97 head for sale: http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/47069/
OHV notec wrote:Yes, pilot holes are definitely a must.
I've heard of the hacksaw method on arms before, but I'd be too afraid of removing the aluminum from the seating surface.
An air chisel? Ouch! Maybe on the stamped steel arms...
it takes some practice to get good enough with the air chisel without any markings on the arms.....but very effective when you get it down. and even during "practice" I never damaged an aluminum arm enough to even slightly doubt the structural integrity.
took like 10 minutes with the hacksaw. air chisels cost money lol. im sure the air chisel is the perfered route!!!!!! but a hacksaw will get through whatever with enough sweat
Thanks Misnblu I hope to get the ball joints and tierod ends in the next two weeks along with the N-body axles and some braided lines cause my turbo motor is supposed to be finished by the end of August.
No problem Dale.
You need to let me know via e-mail when you get it all together.
I'd like to check out the new setup you've got.
Also, I'm sure that once you've broken the engine in, you're going to get it dynoed.
Good luck man. Your car should be sweet.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
