I got a couple request for a couple different items for the j-bodys, but alot of people have asked me to build them a solid rear STB. So I am seeing if there is a group of people that are looking to get a solid rear bar. Would probably be as thick as possible, like 1.5" tubing. The pricing would be around $80-$110 shipped. Anyone??
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
steel, yes? otherwise i dont see how it would be any better than the ten thousand aluminum ones out there.
and please make it heim joint adjustable.
if so, im in 100%.
I believe I can see the future... as I repeat the same routine....
If it's a solid one piece bar in the back and possibly a 3 point bar in the front (kinda like the gm bar but with another piece going from strut tower to strut tower) I would be more then willing to get rid of the two I have right now for two pieces from you.
Id like to see pics and price, but i might be interested.
Ditto...make a mockup piece and take some pics. I could be interested for both (the front 3-pc bar idea and rear bar).
Mark i told you it would work....get a design, and let us see pics
the problem with all the ones on the market is that they tend to have a flat mounting surface... the rear strut tower is not flat so you lose most of the surface area. Make somethign to fit snug and flat and steel are your golden.
Darkstars wrote:the problem with all the ones on the market is that they tend to have a flat mounting surface... the rear strut tower is not flat so you lose most of the surface area. Make somethign to fit snug and flat and steel are your golden.
Mark makes SURE u do this
I notcied that the RKS bar does not fit on that great as well. I have one myself and its not that great of quality. Unfortunatly I wont have these done for another week or so. I am working on phenolic flanges. I will get something produced as soon as I can. It will be OVERKILL for sure.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
JUST DO IT MARK! We all know you are doing other things too.
OEM wrote:I notcied that the RKS bar does not fit on that great as well. I have one myself and its not that great of quality. Unfortunatly I wont have these done for another week or so. I am working on phenolic flanges. I will get something produced as soon as I can. It will be OVERKILL for sure.
I'm using the RK rear strut bar and would consider it the best option we have over anything on the market to this day.
2 out of the three bolts fit perfectly to the base of the strut tower with a stand off accounting for the other bolt to make it as strong as you can get.
So what do you mean that the quality is lacking in the design?
Other than that, I'm all for something solid but steel? With me trying to lose as much weight off of the car as possible, I'm trying to keep the weight down with mods. Steel would be a detriment to this philosophy.
I really don't see why a good T-6061 aluminum, one piece strut bar would'nt work for the same application and having the bar a bit bigger to compensate for the added strength that steel would provide, minus the weight.
Just some feedback on this and not trying to start a fuss over this topic of discussion.
I'm listening and always looking for a better part to make the car better.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
^^^ LOL
then why do you run the gm vert brace? theres plenty of aluminum bars out there much lighter than that beast. (and they to get the job done)
I believe I can see the future... as I repeat the same routine....
C'mon Brad, you know my answer to this.
It's the best one out there with dual firewall connections for the most sturdy bar you can get and it's factory. lol
But I'm all for something better so we'll see how this thread evolves.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
1 piece that sits flat , and no hein joints they allow flex , and flex is no good
steel , aluminum , chrome moly , stainless , which ever keeps its on the inexpensive scale
^^ then how do you suggest it be adjustable?
I believe I can see the future... as I repeat the same routine....
with an adjustable "i" bolt..... but really why have adjustability...what for...please explain
[quote=97cavie24ls(™)]1 piece that sits flat , and no hein joints they allow flex , and flex is no good
steel , aluminum , chrome moly , stainless , which ever keeps its on the inexpensive scale
LOL....If heim joints flex then your not tightening them up properly.
Also, any grade steel, doesn't matter the type 4340, stainless, low carbon, high carbon will all have the same flex deflection with the same given load. Just FYI, so no point in getting fancy metals.
Fancy metals only help increase max load before failure and nothing else.
Aluminum can be more than adequate if its designed properly. Getting as flat and level is the most important, far more than the choice of metals. Followed shortly thereafter with a design that will keep the bar from bending(up/down and front/back) which I'd start looking towards a H beam design which will keep the bending moment in both directions at bay which is what you want. Stretch wont be a problem since aluminum and steel will be more than adequate despite the design for stretching forces as long as there is enough cross section to keep from breaking under the load. But by the time you get enough material in there to keep from bending under compression forces, the stretch wont even need to be given a second thought, it will be able to handle it.
Hope that helps.
Just some thoughts, steel will be easier to weld together complex geometry's out of some decently think sheet metal however if using aluminum chances are great billet will be the only way to get the required design. All things considered they will both weight about the same but the metal might cost less due to less manufacturing/material loss.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Wouldn't you need the bar to be length adjustable? I can't imagine everyone's J will be the same length strut tower to strut tower. I'm sure most are but what about the 20 who arent the same as the bar.. they just going to need to elongate the holes and make it work that way?
eh... in my experience being able to tighten up the bar helps the overall effectiveness of the bar.
it sucks the towers in just a bit making it that much harder for them to be moving around.
just my experience...
I believe I can see the future... as I repeat the same routine....
I'm in the "single-piece" crowd. That's why the GM bar is the best one for the front, because there's no joints to introduce flex, no weak points. That, and the fact it's triangulated with the firewall bolt.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
why is everyone so hung up on assuming that the only way a triangulated bar could be up front is the gm bar's firewall mounts? my god havent any of you ever seen a mustang brace?
it would not be hard to make a front bar that has a firewall mount and OR radiator support mounts. (for a company that makes custom parts i mean)
Needing 2.3 oil pump stuff? PM me...
