What is the advantage of an N W F front suspension swap other than the increased braking power and stronger axles.
I have a front wilwood kit so I have the braking power covered, would getting the 500hp axles off of turbo tech be just as effective as doing the swap? My turbo setup is going in this summer and I want to make sure I don't break something on my first day out.
Most just do the NWF for the larger brakes and thats about it. Also the bolt pattern will change to a 5x114 instead of 5x100. If your just looking for stronger axles, get the Drive shaft shop ones and keep your wilwoods.
Thanks. Thats what I thought but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
Actually it's a 5x115 bolt pattern. You want to know the best part of the NWF swap for me?.... It's that I have big brakes for under $200.
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
After new rotors, new pads, yard calipers, new seals, new hubs, yard knuckles, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, a mixing of axles, and a lot of time needed, I probably spent as much on my NW swap as an aftermarket bbk.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Viper98912 wrote:After new rotors, new pads, yard calipers, new seals, new hubs, yard knuckles, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, a mixing of axles, and a lot of time needed, I probably spent as much on my NW swap as an aftermarket bbk.
Same here for the Neon rear.
Calipers
Stillen rotors
Hawk Pads
I needed new wheel bearings
I was like $100 short of the SSBC kit.
Viper98912 wrote:After new rotors, new pads, yard calipers, new seals, new hubs, yard knuckles, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, a mixing of axles, and a lot of time needed, I probably spent as much on my NW swap as an aftermarket bbk.
That makes me so happy that I went with a wilwood front setup, and I also get to keep my 5 x 100. awesome
Cody@RDFabs.com wrote:Viper98912 wrote:After new rotors, new pads, yard calipers, new seals, new hubs, yard knuckles, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, a mixing of axles, and a lot of time needed, I probably spent as much on my NW swap as an aftermarket bbk.
Same here for the Neon rear.
Calipers
Stillen rotors
Hawk Pads
I needed new wheel bearings
I was like $100 short of the SSBC kit.
^How can you include the price of wheel bearings and then compare that to the cost of a BBK?
idk....I found lots of deals and I have the NFW with tie rod ends, NEW calipers, new drilled/slotted rotors, New hubs, yark knuckle, new ball joints, new pads, and axles for less than $350
I even did the neon swap with $350.00(this includes figuring $220.00 for the brackets and all hardware) also with, new drilled/slotted rotors and new calipers.
Yeah, if you want NFW "NOW" and go to a parts store and buy all the best brand name stuff yeah, it's gonna cost ya. I found plenty of deals with guys selling off new calipers cause they upgraded to PBR's on the F-body forums and all kinds of stuff. You gotta be resourceful to make it cheap. Otherwise yeah, just go get the BBK's.
I'm going to make a bracket to put 14" C6 rotors and calipers on my 'N' setup and I still wont be over $550.00 after I sell the new F-body calipers and drilled/slotted rotors and pick up the C6 stuff. <-That beats the living crap out of a BBK $.
EDIT: So, I'll have ~10" rears + ~14" fronts for less than $1k
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Thursday, March 12, 2009 3:34 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Joshua Dearman wrote:Cody@RDFabs.com wrote:Viper98912 wrote:After new rotors, new pads, yard calipers, new seals, new hubs, yard knuckles, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, a mixing of axles, and a lot of time needed, I probably spent as much on my NW swap as an aftermarket bbk.
Same here for the Neon rear.
Calipers
Stillen rotors
Hawk Pads
I needed new wheel bearings
I was like $100 short of the SSBC kit.
^How can you include the price of wheel bearings and then compare that to the cost of a BBK?
Easily, when they were rusted solid to the j-body drum back plate which wouldn't come un done with a BFH/ torch, then those god damn torx bolts ended up stripping out so I had to drill those and by the time I got the wheel bearings apart I didn't dare re-use them.
^Sure that sucks...but gotta include that cost ontop of the BBK since you still have to pull those parts even if you got a BBK. So you'd be $BBK + bearings still. Can't include that in my eyes.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
It's hard to know what you actually spent because everyone(almost) makes it seem like they got the best deal. I'm not trying to knock anyone, I think its just human nature to "forget" to include some of the costs related to the setup they have.
I know I didn't get the best deal since I went all out on that kit I made with Josh's brackets and hardware. So I guess I dug my own hole with that one, but i'm not going to put my life in danger by cheaping out and half assing a job.
^^agreed. brakes are not something to take a chance with. All I need for my setup is some nice SS lines. I know you weren't talking about how good of a deal you got, but everyone else was( aside from Viper)
Knuckles and calipers from the yard: $100
Tie rod ends: $30
Ball joints: $60 (this is actually more, because I think I have a slightly different knuckle that doesn't hold the "fat" style ball joints well, so I have a few different types/sets of these)
Hawk pads: $65
Rotors: $150
Wheel bearing/hubs (one of the abs sensors was internally broken, so I just replaced both): $120
Axles: $150 (Went through a few of these searching for a clicking noise, and I still have a damn clicking issue, so I gave up on that one)
That alone is $675, and I'm pretty sure I'm still missing a few things. If I would remember all the pain and credit card swipes, I'm sure I reached $800, about the cost of other bbk's.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
^Yeah, that sucks...you just got constantly @!#$ on. I remember post after post of "what the hell", I think you got everybody's bad luck on that one.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
when i do mine i'm gonna do an alero rear brake swap aswell im getting custom caliper plated made and the rear bearing will bolt to it the rear wheels will be coming out a little on each side 3/8 or 1/2 and the fronts will too as i wont be machining my aluminum arms
i'm doin this and a couple other things to help run a wider tire at the same time as getting bigger brakes but the front might be substituted for GXP rotors and calipers so i can have 13" brakes
JBO since July 30, 2001
Hey Josh question what would I have to do with the NWF swap to use 13" Corvette rotors and calipers? I know the rotors will have to be redrilled for the 5 x 115 bolt pattern but does the spindle need to be modded or any custom brackets made/used to mount the caliper to clear 13" rotors instead of 12"?
