my drums keep locking up when im slowing down almost to a stop? And it starts like skipping like the abs is messed up? any ideas on what it is or what to do? thanks
I changed my pads and drums. Problem solved.
you mean front pads or rear shoes
your right, rear shoes. I used recon drums to save money, that was like 2 years ago, still a ok
Either you're out of pad on the shoe and down to metal on metal or the more likely situation: you could have a leaky wheel cylinder spraying brake fluid on the shoes. That would cause them to lock up when the brakes are applied.
i had the same problem and it was my left rear shoe retainer ring was broke, the ring looks like a big horseshoe
i had that problem for a long time. when i got the car (4 years and 50k miles ago) it would only really do it when the brakes were cold on humid days and stuff. it got worse over time. i replaced the shoes after finding one cracked. after replacing them it got worse. i figured it was a drum out of round or something and it was catching as i got slower. never really thought anything of it til about 3 months ago, it got so bad that the right rear was locking up completely when i tried to use the brakes. mostly at low speeds. when i took a look i found the right rear wheel cylinder was starting to leak and the shoe had cracked again. so i said @!#$ it and replaced everything. shoes, drums, wheel cylinders and a new hardware kit, i even had to replace the hard line leading into the wheel cylinder on the right side (whatever jackass put the line on that wheel cylinder put it on too @!#$ tight and the line siezed up and snapped off in the cylinder). but its been like 2 months since i got it back on the road and everything is perfect now.
my suggestion, take the drums off, clean the dust out (use brakleen or something similar) check all the shoes, look for leaks, etc. and go from there.
thanks for the info will do and let everyone know!
i had the same thing, and it was my abs wheel speed sensor that was out, so that may be worth a look too, if nothing else works
Classic Leaky wheel cylinder. When they partially leak, they combine with brake dust and make a tacky compound that tends to grab. When it really gets bad it begins lubricating the surfaces and you get a pull to the opposite side.
Anytime you do a drum brake job the hardware should be replaced, your talking 10 or 12 bucks for the extra insurance none of the springs will break, or crack.
A tip on the wheel cylinders, The guy above, the previous technician probably did not over tighten the line, they always get stuck, the only way to get it off easily is to get the nut cherry red with an oxyacetylene and lots of PB. The best way is to hold the nut with a flare nut wrench and after you take the securing bolts for the wheel cylinders out you can hold the line nut stationary while rotating the wheel cylinder itself to undo the line. This works almost everytime and with a little heat your almost guarenteed to get it off no problem.
Jon D. Welcome to my daily life as a technician. Nobody overtightened it, you just gotta use your brain and not go tearing things up right away when it comes to brake line, especially true on brake lines. Typically the line is rusted to the nut and kinks when the nut breaks loose, which is why it needs to be cherry red when you do break her loose.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
